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Posted by Wayne Whitney on February 10, 2007, 11:01 am
> This has been done for ages to remove bearing walls.
Could you explain what the advantage is to putting the new beam on top
of the joists instead of in line with the joists (so the bottoms are
lined up)? The latter seems much simpler in a variety of ways, but
perhaps I'm missing something.
Thanks, Wayne
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Posted by DanG on February 10, 2007, 11:18 am
One advantage is not having to build shoring walls to carry the
load while you cut the joists to be able to struggle, and I do
mean struggle, to get the beam up between the cuts and then
install the joist hangers. Depending on the length involved and
the clearance you are willing to allow on the joist hangers, you
are asking a lot to have a beam straight enough to slide right up.
You need to have the new beam in location under the cut before you
install the shoring walls.
If it is going to be an attic space or other use where the beam on
the "floor" won't create a problem, it can be an elegant solution.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
A live Singing Valentine quartet,
a sophisticated and elegant way to say I LOVE YOU!
valentine@okchorale.org (local)
http://www.singingvalentines.com/ (national)
>> This has been done for ages to remove bearing walls.
> Could you explain what the advantage is to putting the new beam
> on top
> of the joists instead of in line with the joists (so the bottoms
> are
> lined up)? The latter seems much simpler in a variety of ways,
> but
> perhaps I'm missing something.
> Thanks, Wayne
>
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Posted by lp13-30 on February 10, 2007, 11:50 am
The guy I used to work for had the exact same thing done in his house.
They had part of a load bearing wall opened up and did not want the
supporting beam it required to be in the room, so it was installed in
the attic, just as the OP is wanting to do. However. if I ever saw how
it was attatched to the joists, I do not remember. Larry
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Posted by Jetmech on February 25, 2007, 8:54 pm
This is a perfect topic. I'm in the midst of doing this right now.
Heres what Im up against
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c172/jetmech727/scan-1.jpg
I'm removing the wall in question. The joists that span over it are
2x5's I think. They run 10 feet and sit on top of the wall in
question, then continue on another foot and are face nailed to a 2X5
joist running from an inside load bearing wall to the back wall. I
cut the sheetrock from under that joist and slipped in a joist hangar
on each joist. Then i went up and installed two 2x12's that also sit
on the middle load wall and span over to the back wall. I then
nailed and screwed the original 2x5 joist to the sistered 2x12. Do
you think this will be enough support? The 2x12 witht he 2x5 nailed
to it span 11 feet. When I ripped the plaster off the wall to expose
the studs, I noticed that all the studs were pretty loose. I figured
if there was a big weight load on them, then would they not be under
compression? I can see the nail shanks on some of them coming through
the top plate.
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Posted by Tom J on February 10, 2007, 11:51 am
Wayne Whitney wrote:
>> This has been done for ages to remove bearing walls.
> Could you explain what the advantage is to putting the new beam on
> top
> of the joists instead of in line with the joists (so the bottoms are
> lined up)? The latter seems much simpler in a variety of ways, but
> perhaps I'm missing something.
You did, see quote below my comment. He is taking out a load bearing
wall below and wants a flat ceiling it seems. I have the same type
thing in my home, but mine has an overhead engineered truss through
the center instead of the overhead beam that uses angle iron straps
like I suggested.
Quote
"I don't want to just hang the beam, I want it on top (because I am
removing a wall below and don't want it to show). The beam will be
supported with blocking at both ends, so the beam will still support
the joists. I looked through the simpson site and didn't see anything
that jumped out at me for this."
End Quote
Tom J
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