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Tile Over UnEvEn Kitchen Floor????????????????

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Tile Over UnEvEn Kitchen Floor???????????????? infiniteMPG 09-07-2008
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Posted by infiniteMPG on September 7, 2008, 9:27 pm


We're about to start tiling a kitchen floor over stripped bare
concrete slab. We're going to be using 18" X 18" tile and we've
started noticing that the floor has quite a few uneven spots in it up
to 1/4" or so. We've heard about leveling compounds but we're kind of
new to this. We already have our cabinets mounted so whatever we use
we need to take that into consideration. Not sure what can be put
down prior to the tile to level the floor better or if something
different can be used to mount the tiles that can take up the uneven
floor?

Thanks for any help or suggestions!

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Posted by dadiOH on September 8, 2008, 7:43 am


infiniteMPG wrote:
> We're about to start tiling a kitchen floor over stripped bare
> concrete slab. We're going to be using 18" X 18" tile and we've
> started noticing that the floor has quite a few uneven spots in it up
> to 1/4" or so. We've heard about leveling compounds but we're kind of
> new to this. We already have our cabinets mounted so whatever we use
> we need to take that into consideration. Not sure what can be put
> down prior to the tile to level the floor better or if something
> different can be used to mount the tiles that can take up the uneven
> floor?
>
> Thanks for any help or suggestions!

1. What was on the floor before?

2. What are these up to 1/4" uneven spots? Are they just small gobs or
saucer size or platter size or what? Or is it that an eight foot straight
edge reveals that, for example, the slab center is 1/4" higher or lower than
the edges?

I ask because *something* was sucessfully put over the high spots before.
Gobs can simply be knocked/chiseled off; larger high spots could be ground
down. If the floor is smooth but simply higher/lower in the center, just
lay the tiles - you won't notice 1/4" from one side of a room to another.

If the 1/4" spots happen to be depressions, don't worry about them at all,
the thinset will fill them up. Your only real concern is in getting the
edges of each tile flush with each adjacent tile (use a beating board). If
a tile happens to bridge two high spots, use more mortar under it. You can
tell if a tile is embedded completely by rapping it with your knuckles after
the mortar sets up a bit (5-15 minutes)...solid "thunk" sound = set, hollow
sound = not enough mortar.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico




Posted by Chris on September 8, 2008, 9:22 pm


infiniteMPG wrote:
> We're about to start tiling a kitchen floor over stripped bare
> concrete slab. We're going to be using 18" X 18" tile and we've
> started noticing that the floor has quite a few uneven spots in it up
> to 1/4" or so. We've heard about leveling compounds but we're kind of
> new to this.

Use self leveling concrete, if those spots are large, or even if the
whole floor slopes 1/4" from one end to the other. A level floor will
make much easier installing cabinets, for example.

We already have our cabinets mounted so whatever we use
> we need to take that into consideration.

Ouch! Are you going to tile around the cabinets? Bad choice, IMO. Will
be a PITA to install or service a dishwasher,for example, and hope
you'll never have to replace one of the bases. Also, probably you'll
have to make more tile cuts to fit the profile of the cabinets.

> Not sure what can be put
> down prior to the tile to level the floor better or if something
> different can be used to mount the tiles that can take up the uneven
> floor?

Again I would use self leveling concrete, and would consider removing
the cabinets and covering the whole kitchen floor with tiles .

If there are only a few lower spots you could just use more mortar under
the tiles there, but there is a potential risk to leave air pockets if
you're not careful.


Posted by Red Green on September 8, 2008, 11:02 pm



> infiniteMPG wrote:
>> We're about to start tiling a kitchen floor over stripped bare
>> concrete slab. We're going to be using 18" X 18" tile and we've
>> started noticing that the floor has quite a few uneven spots in it up
>> to 1/4" or so. We've heard about leveling compounds but we're kind
>> of new to this.
>
> Use self leveling concrete, if those spots are large, or even if the
> whole floor slopes 1/4" from one end to the other. A level floor will
> make much easier installing cabinets, for example.
>
> We already have our cabinets mounted so whatever we use
>> we need to take that into consideration.
>
> Ouch! Are you going to tile around the cabinets? Bad choice, IMO. Will
> be a PITA to install or service a dishwasher,for example, and hope
> you'll never have to replace one of the bases. Also, probably you'll
> have to make more tile cuts to fit the profile of the cabinets.
>
>> Not sure what can be put
>> down prior to the tile to level the floor better or if something
>> different can be used to mount the tiles that can take up the uneven
>> floor?
>
> Again I would use self leveling concrete, and would consider removing
> the cabinets and covering the whole kitchen floor with tiles .
>
> If there are only a few lower spots you could just use more mortar
> under the tiles there, but there is a potential risk to leave air
> pockets if you're not careful.
>
>

The floor just needs to be flat, not necessairly level. For all we know
both ends at opposide walls are down an inch. Hope not.

I've never used self leveling concrete. I've used those floor levelers
in bags. Expensive stuff.

There is also Henry 547 Patch and Skimcoat. Not self leveling but same
type of material as the floor leveler I've used. Floor leveler if I
recall was much more expensive than the patch & skimcoat. The 25lb bag
of patch & skimcoat runs about $22 at the Borg here. One bag covers 40sf
at 1/8" thickness.

Not a lot of work time with these products. Maybe 20 min. Depends on
actual mixture, temp, humidity, etc. One thing I've done is to make the
mix with refrigerated water to extend work time a little. Although mixed
with water, setting appears to be chemical and not evaporation. You'll
be working with it then suddenly in a few minutes it's no longer
workable. About an hour after that it's hard as a rock and you can walk
on it no problem. Next day it's light grey.

How does the self leveling concrete compare to this I'm curious?

Posted by Chris on September 9, 2008, 6:57 pm


Red Green wrote:
>
>> infiniteMPG wrote:
>>> We're about to start tiling a kitchen floor over stripped bare
>>> concrete slab. We're going to be using 18" X 18" tile and we've
>>> started noticing that the floor has quite a few uneven spots in it up
>>> to 1/4" or so. We've heard about leveling compounds but we're kind
>>> of new to this.
>> Use self leveling concrete, if those spots are large, or even if the
>> whole floor slopes 1/4" from one end to the other. A level floor will
>> make much easier installing cabinets, for example.
>>
>> We already have our cabinets mounted so whatever we use
>>> we need to take that into consideration.
>> Ouch! Are you going to tile around the cabinets? Bad choice, IMO. Will
>> be a PITA to install or service a dishwasher,for example, and hope
>> you'll never have to replace one of the bases. Also, probably you'll
>> have to make more tile cuts to fit the profile of the cabinets.
>>
>>> Not sure what can be put
>>> down prior to the tile to level the floor better or if something
>>> different can be used to mount the tiles that can take up the uneven
>>> floor?
>> Again I would use self leveling concrete, and would consider removing
>> the cabinets and covering the whole kitchen floor with tiles .
>>
>> If there are only a few lower spots you could just use more mortar
>> under the tiles there, but there is a potential risk to leave air
>> pockets if you're not careful.
>>
>>
>
> The floor just needs to be flat, not necessairly level.

Well, may be not everybody sees a need there, but I would have a strong
preference.
>
> I've never used self leveling concrete. I've used those floor levelers
> in bags. Expensive stuff.
>
>
> How does the self leveling concrete compare to this I'm curious?

I've never used the expensive stuff you mention, so not sure how
compares. I am overly simplifying but with SLC you just pour and let it
settle. Gravity will keep the surface smooth and at the same level.

Page 1 of 2       1 2 > last >>
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