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Posted by jeffreydesign on October 16, 2006, 12:17 pm
Here's the *right* way to do the job, however you may opt to do
something else:
Since you have two floor types meeting (concrete and wood) there will
be potentially more flex in the floor at that particular spot and the
floor should be stiffened before applying tile.
You need to first clean the area you're going to tile thoroughly. Put a
coat of thinset (mortar) down with a 1/4" trowel, then place
hardibacker or cement board (I prefer hardibacker, much easier to work
with) down over the thinset while it's wet. Screw down the hardibacker
in the indicated locations on the board (every 6") with special screws
(designed to penetrate the cement board/hardibacker and countersink
themselves.)
Now after waiting at least 24 hours, apply another coat of thinset with
the same trowel you used before over the hardibacker and set your tile.
(Of course, this assumes you have already laid out your tile pattern
first.) Wait 24 hours or more before grout.
Now that's the *right* way to do the job and it's the way I do *ALL* my
tile floors. To me, the right way is the only way. Sure saves trouble
later.
-Jeff
Steve B wrote:
> >
> >>I want to put a two foot strip of tile around my wood stove at my cabin.
> >>It is going to go on top of plywood or particle board, or whatever wood is
> >>under the carpet.
> >>
> >> Do one use an adhesive or grout to get the tiles to stick to the wood?
> >> Or adhesive, then grout the joints. And what keeps the grout joints from
> >> working loose as the floor flexes? Is there flexible grout?
> >>
> > You have carpet in a cabin?
> >
> > It's a cabin. Get 3 big inch-thick pieces of slate or granite the right
> > size, and just set them in place and let gravity do the work. Hold them in
> > place, if needed, with a strip of hardwood screwed to the floor around the
> > outside. More important, what is under the stove and behind it? In the old
> > days, we used to use sheets of asbestos board, looked and worked about
> > like the current cement backer board. Rather than a ring, I'd seriously
> > look at pulling the stove loose long enough to put a continuous something
> > underneath, the better to have no cracks to catch ashes or sparks, and to
> > make cleanup easier.
> >
> > But if you have your heart set on tile- same rules as tiling a bathroom-
> > floor has to be stiff, usually done by screwing down a layer of cement
> > backer board. In the old days, they framed the floor an inch or so lower
> > there, and put down a mortar bed with chicken wire in it, and laid the
> > tile over that. Some people do get away with using mastic for ceramic, but
> > I'm really not sure what they use for grout to keep it from cracking.
> >
> > aem sends...
>
> The floor in that corner of the room is four inches thick of concrete. I
> believe it is a form poured base for a wood burning stove that is then set
> in place once the cabin is framed and flooring installed. It is like a
> square with one corner triangle trimmed off. Carpet comes up to the
> concrete base. I want to make a two foot strip of tile between the concrete
> and tile. Back wall is natural stone about six feet out each direction from
> the corner. Sorry I wasn't clear.
>
> The corner that the stove sits in is pretty safe, having a concrete base and
> stone walls.
>
> Steve
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