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Posted by jeffreydesign on October 16, 2006, 9:16 pm
Hmmm I never thought of it as "rocket science" or "brain surgery" or
"rocket surgery" as you put it. Speaking of mixed metaphors, you never
mentioned that the floor wouldn't be walked on in your first post - if
that's the case, you might get away with Mastik and modified grout, but
beware, walking on it isn't the only means of movement. Floors expand
and contract with temperature and moisture changes. Wait a few months
and look at your grout joints and you will notice little cracks all
along the tile, and eventually the grout will crack too. But then
again, you don't really care... it's just a cabin.
-Jeff
Steve B wrote:
> > Here's the *right* way to do the job, however you may opt to do
> > something else:
> >
> > Since you have two floor types meeting (concrete and wood) there will
> > be potentially more flex in the floor at that particular spot and the
> > floor should be stiffened before applying tile.
> >
> > You need to first clean the area you're going to tile thoroughly. Put a
> > coat of thinset (mortar) down with a 1/4" trowel, then place
> > hardibacker or cement board (I prefer hardibacker, much easier to work
> > with) down over the thinset while it's wet. Screw down the hardibacker
> > in the indicated locations on the board (every 6") with special screws
> > (designed to penetrate the cement board/hardibacker and countersink
> > themselves.)
> >
> > Now after waiting at least 24 hours, apply another coat of thinset with
> > the same trowel you used before over the hardibacker and set your tile.
> > (Of course, this assumes you have already laid out your tile pattern
> > first.) Wait 24 hours or more before grout.
> >
> > Now that's the *right* way to do the job and it's the way I do *ALL* my
> > tile floors. To me, the right way is the only way. Sure saves trouble
> > later.
> >
> > -Jeff
> > Steve B wrote:
> >> >
> >> >>I want to put a two foot strip of tile around my wood stove at my
> >> >>cabin.
> >> >>It is going to go on top of plywood or particle board, or whatever wood
> >> >>is
> >> >>under the carpet.
> >> >>
> >> >> Do one use an adhesive or grout to get the tiles to stick to the wood?
> >> >> Or adhesive, then grout the joints. And what keeps the grout joints
> >> >> from
> >> >> working loose as the floor flexes? Is there flexible grout?
> >> >>
> >> > You have carpet in a cabin?
> >> >
> >> > It's a cabin. Get 3 big inch-thick pieces of slate or granite the right
> >> > size, and just set them in place and let gravity do the work. Hold them
> >> > in
> >> > place, if needed, with a strip of hardwood screwed to the floor around
> >> > the
> >> > outside. More important, what is under the stove and behind it? In the
> >> > old
> >> > days, we used to use sheets of asbestos board, looked and worked about
> >> > like the current cement backer board. Rather than a ring, I'd seriously
> >> > look at pulling the stove loose long enough to put a continuous
> >> > something
> >> > underneath, the better to have no cracks to catch ashes or sparks, and
> >> > to
> >> > make cleanup easier.
> >> >
> >> > But if you have your heart set on tile- same rules as tiling a
> >> > bathroom-
> >> > floor has to be stiff, usually done by screwing down a layer of cement
> >> > backer board. In the old days, they framed the floor an inch or so
> >> > lower
> >> > there, and put down a mortar bed with chicken wire in it, and laid the
> >> > tile over that. Some people do get away with using mastic for ceramic,
> >> > but
> >> > I'm really not sure what they use for grout to keep it from cracking.
> >> >
> >> > aem sends...
> >>
> >> The floor in that corner of the room is four inches thick of concrete. I
> >> believe it is a form poured base for a wood burning stove that is then
> >> set
> >> in place once the cabin is framed and flooring installed. It is like a
> >> square with one corner triangle trimmed off. Carpet comes up to the
> >> concrete base. I want to make a two foot strip of tile between the
> >> concrete
> >> and tile. Back wall is natural stone about six feet out each direction
> >> from
> >> the corner. Sorry I wasn't clear.
> >>
> >> The corner that the stove sits in is pretty safe, having a concrete base
> >> and
> >> stone walls.
> >>
>
> We're talking about 20 sf that will not even be walked on. I'm going to
> glue it down to the wood, grout the joints, and put a strip of extrusion to
> cover up the carpet edge.
>
> No need for rocket surgery here.
>
> Steve
> >> Steve
> >
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