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Tiling a table top jharper 11-07-2006
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Posted by on November 7, 2006, 9:30 am


I'm going to kick of my first tiling job on the top of a farily cheap
table. To make an ugly table into something nice for the back porch.

Just a couple of silly questions.

Should I staple plastic down between the table top and the backerboard?

Should I skip the plastic and thin set between the table and the
backerboard?

Should I simply nail or screw the backerboard down? Skip the thinset?

The table is thin, 1/2, maybe a tad less. I wonder If i should top it
with a piece of plywood then backboard? Would also make the table more
rigid.

Any ideas or advice?


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Posted by on November 7, 2006, 10:22 am


What is the table made from?
Does it deflect any when you push on it?
jharper@ttechnologyinc.com wrote:
> I'm going to kick of my first tiling job on the top of a farily cheap
> table. To make an ugly table into something nice for the back porch.
>
> Just a couple of silly questions.
>
> Should I staple plastic down between the table top and the backerboard?
>
> Should I skip the plastic and thin set between the table and the
> backerboard?
>
> Should I simply nail or screw the backerboard down? Skip the thinset?
>
> The table is thin, 1/2, maybe a tad less. I wonder If i should top it
> with a piece of plywood then backboard? Would also make the table more
> rigid.
>
> Any ideas or advice?


Posted by krw on November 7, 2006, 10:35 am


jharper@ttechnologyinc.com says...
> I'm going to kick of my first tiling job on the top of a farily cheap
> table. To make an ugly table into something nice for the back porch.
>
> Just a couple of silly questions.
>
> Should I staple plastic down between the table top and the backerboard?

I wouldn't. The plastic will interfere with the adhesion.

> Should I skip the plastic and thin set between the table and the
> backerboard?

That's the normal way of doing things.

> Should I simply nail or screw the backerboard down? Skip the thinset?

No. I think thinset is the way to go.

> The table is thin, 1/2, maybe a tad less. I wonder If i should top it
> with a piece of plywood then backboard? Would also make the table more
> rigid.

Unless the table is quite large, I'd use 1/2" backer. I'm not sure
what to do with the screws though. 1/2" isn't much to bite into.
Maybe your idea of 1/2" plywood glued to the bare wood (sanded) is
the way to go. Then use 1" screws and thinset 1/4" backer to that.

How are you planning to finish the edge?
>
> Any ideas or advice?
>
--
Keith

Posted by kellyj00@gmail.com on November 7, 2006, 10:41 am


Note that grout is not a perfect water seal. Rain WILL seep through
the grout on a table as it is a flat surface. I'd consider web articles
about constructing tile shower stalls in order to provide a permanent
piece of outdoor furniture.

Also, how you plan to finish the edges should help you determine how
thick you want the overall top surface to be. Also, bullnose tile
seems much more expensive than the basic square stuff....in my
experience anyhow.

Best of luck, sounds like a really great way to use an old table.


Posted by plasma800 on November 7, 2006, 11:24 am


The table does have some flex to it when you push on it. It's 8' long
by 29 11/16" wide. The top is made of partical board.

It will be sitting out outside. If the table dies after a season or
two, I don't know that I would die.

I was planning on mailing backerboard to the outside edges and using
bullnose tile or cut peices for the sides.

I also considered just framing the aoutside edges with some 2x4 or
something of the sort. Still in planning.

So far it seems that a plywood topper is going to be a great idea for
both rigidity and bite.


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