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Tiling the kitchen floor rklotz 09-28-2006
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Posted by on September 28, 2006, 9:20 am
I recently just finished tiling our kitchen backsplash and was very
pleased with the results. So now I figure that it would be a good time
to replace the outdated kitchen floor with some new tile. So yesterday
I started ripping up the linoleum floor and was very pleased that the
sub-floor was in excellent condition. The linoleum was only glued down
on the edges, so it came up very easy except for one section. In one
of the corners the glue pulled up a little bit off the top layer off
the plywood. Now what can I use to smooth out this section? Would
spackle or the tile adhesive work?
I just want to make sure that the floor is as smooth and level as
possible before I start laying tile.


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Posted by GoHabsGo on September 28, 2006, 9:52 am
rklotz@gmail.com wrote in news:1159449621.456281.180510
@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

> I recently just finished tiling our kitchen backsplash and was very
> pleased with the results. So now I figure that it would be a good time
> to replace the outdated kitchen floor with some new tile. So yesterday
> I started ripping up the linoleum floor and was very pleased that the
> sub-floor was in excellent condition. The linoleum was only glued down
> on the edges, so it came up very easy except for one section. In one
> of the corners the glue pulled up a little bit off the top layer off
> the plywood. Now what can I use to smooth out this section? Would
> spackle or the tile adhesive work?
> I just want to make sure that the floor is as smooth and level as
> possible before I start laying tile.

How thick is your subfloor? You will need to screw down your subfloor with
flooring screws at 4-6inch intervals first to make sure that there is no
flex or movement in the subfloor beneath the tiles, or the tiles or grout
will crack. There are some good websites for DIY ceramic tile that go into
details, just google to finde them.

Depending how bad the damage to the edges, it may not matter. The mortar
will fill the bad spots and actually adhere better, so long as there is
enough wood there to keep the tile level. With larger tile, it may not
need to be patched. However, make sure you do have enough thickness there
for rigidity.

Posted by on September 28, 2006, 3:16 pm
I checked the floor throughout and did not notice any flexing. (they
already had driven in screws every 6 inches and spackled on top of
them. I believe it is thicker than the 1 1/8 inch requirements, but
I'll take another measurement tonight to be sure.

One more question: How much harder are the thinsets to work with over
the pre-mixed adhesives? This is my first tile floor job, so I would
like to keep it as simple as possible. But of course I want to make
sure it will last.


GoHabsGo wrote:
> rklotz@gmail.com wrote in news:1159449621.456281.180510
> @i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
>
> > I recently just finished tiling our kitchen backsplash and was very
> > pleased with the results. So now I figure that it would be a good time
> > to replace the outdated kitchen floor with some new tile. So yesterday
> > I started ripping up the linoleum floor and was very pleased that the
> > sub-floor was in excellent condition. The linoleum was only glued down
> > on the edges, so it came up very easy except for one section. In one
> > of the corners the glue pulled up a little bit off the top layer off
> > the plywood. Now what can I use to smooth out this section? Would
> > spackle or the tile adhesive work?
> > I just want to make sure that the floor is as smooth and level as
> > possible before I start laying tile.
>
> How thick is your subfloor? You will need to screw down your subfloor with
> flooring screws at 4-6inch intervals first to make sure that there is no
> flex or movement in the subfloor beneath the tiles, or the tiles or grout
> will crack. There are some good websites for DIY ceramic tile that go into
> details, just google to finde them.
>
> Depending how bad the damage to the edges, it may not matter. The mortar
> will fill the bad spots and actually adhere better, so long as there is
> enough wood there to keep the tile level. With larger tile, it may not
> need to be patched. However, make sure you do have enough thickness there
> for rigidity.


Posted by GoHabsGo on September 28, 2006, 3:50 pm
rklotz@gmail.com wrote in

> I checked the floor throughout and did not notice any flexing. (they
> already had driven in screws every 6 inches and spackled on top of
> them. I believe it is thicker than the 1 1/8 inch requirements, but
> I'll take another measurement tonight to be sure.
>
> One more question: How much harder are the thinsets to work with over
> the pre-mixed adhesives? This is my first tile floor job, so I would
> like to keep it as simple as possible. But of course I want to make
> sure it will last.

I used premix for my backsplash about a year ago and just did my bathroom
floor with the mortar. I had no problems with either. You will probably
want to get some kind of power mixer attatchment for your power drill. I
didn't have one, but it was only a bathroom, so I only used about 15lbs
of mortar.

For a kitchen, you will want to carefully lay out your pattern first and
try to center your tile layout. Don't start flush with a wall or you may
end up with a 1" sliver at the other end which will look very tacky. You
will want a wet saw for the job.

>
>
> GoHabsGo wrote:
>> rklotz@gmail.com wrote in news:1159449621.456281.180510
>> @i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
>>
>> > I recently just finished tiling our kitchen backsplash and was very
>> > pleased with the results. So now I figure that it would be a good
>> > time to replace the outdated kitchen floor with some new tile. So
>> > yesterday I started ripping up the linoleum floor and was very
>> > pleased that the sub-floor was in excellent condition. The linoleum
>> > was only glued down on the edges, so it came up very easy except
>> > for one section. In one of the corners the glue pulled up a little
>> > bit off the top layer off the plywood. Now what can I use to smooth
>> > out this section? Would spackle or the tile adhesive work?
>> > I just want to make sure that the floor is as smooth and level as
>> > possible before I start laying tile.
>>
>> How thick is your subfloor? You will need to screw down your subfloor
>> with flooring screws at 4-6inch intervals first to make sure that
>> there is no flex or movement in the subfloor beneath the tiles, or
>> the tiles or grout will crack. There are some good websites for DIY
>> ceramic tile that go into details, just google to finde them.
>>
>> Depending how bad the damage to the edges, it may not matter. The
>> mortar will fill the bad spots and actually adhere better, so long as
>> there is enough wood there to keep the tile level. With larger tile,
>> it may not need to be patched. However, make sure you do have enough
>> thickness there for rigidity.
>
>


Posted by Mike Webb on September 28, 2006, 11:25 am
On 28 Sep 2006 06:20:21 -0700, rklotz@gmail.com wrote:

>I recently just finished tiling our kitchen backsplash and was very
>pleased with the results. So now I figure that it would be a good time
>to replace the outdated kitchen floor with some new tile. So yesterday
>I started ripping up the linoleum floor and was very pleased that the
>sub-floor was in excellent condition. The linoleum was only glued down
>on the edges, so it came up very easy except for one section. In one
>of the corners the glue pulled up a little bit off the top layer off
>the plywood. Now what can I use to smooth out this section? Would
>spackle or the tile adhesive work?
>I just want to make sure that the floor is as smooth and level as
>possible before I start laying tile.

Hi;

If you are going to replace the linoleum floor with ceramic tile, the
plywood sub floor WILL NOT provide the needed foundation for the tile.
you will have a great deal of grief keeping any grout (as GoHabsGo
mentioned) in place, and you will have problems with tiles cracking.

What you need to do is lay down a layer of tile backer-board, to
provide the needed stability for your tile floor. Look in the local
Home improvement or book store for a book on laying tile. Basically
you set the backer board in thin-set, then using special decking
screws you fasten the backer board to your existing sub floor. once
this is done, you spread thin-set a section at a time, and lay the
tile.

This sounds like a lot more work, but if you don't do it, you will
probably HATE your new tile floor...

Hope this helps

Mike

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