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Toilet Broken Overflow Tube Jeffy3 12-23-2006
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Posted by Jeffy3 on December 23, 2006, 6:31 pm


While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
(probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.


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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on December 23, 2006, 6:56 pm



Jeffy3 wrote:
> While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
> (probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
> the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
> end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
> seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
> overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.

You can replace the entire thing if you take the tank off the bowl.
Brass is way better than plastic.

Use a sawzall to cut the bolts attaching tank to bowl, those bolts will
be rusted frozen in place


Posted by krw on December 24, 2006, 9:55 am


hallerb@aol.com says...
>
> Jeffy3 wrote:
> > While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
> > (probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
> > the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
> > end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
> > seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
> > overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.
>
> You can replace the entire thing if you take the tank off the bowl.
> Brass is way better than plastic.
>
> Use a sawzall to cut the bolts attaching tank to bowl, those bolts will
> be rusted frozen in place

Sawzall? Nutz, use a Dremmel tool with a cut-off wheel to slice
the nuts in half and you won't break the tank or the bowl.

*Always* replace all hardware (including gaskets) when you got a
toilet apart. It's easy.

--
Keith

Posted by buffalobill on December 23, 2006, 7:00 pm


you can try to play with the old original parts. for our 20 tenants and
ourselves, we have changed our toilets to fluidmaster parts. you'll be
using the secondary toilet during this repair. i would: wetvac, old
towels, water off, suck water from tank, remove water supply nut,
disconnect upper tank, replace broken item, replace all tank parts and
rubber parts and any rubber cushions between water tank and bowl,
install new bolt set. we like to install fluidmaster flusher fixer for
a complete flush. replace fill valve [ballcock], inspect and replace
flush handle as needed. before you start: you know the floor bolts and
wax seal can now be updated easier with the upper tank off because of
the water and the weight. fate will determine if the next sewer
blockage reveals the wax seal is bad. see new waxless seal by
fluidmaster. suck water from bowl, take nuts off bolts, rock and lift
bowl gently holding it level then dump it onto old towels in tub and
rest it upside down there. fluidmaster directions are great on their
website and in their packaging. repair floor flange if broken. install
new floor bolts. buy the american standard part if you can get away
with it but if you put all new parts in you might be good for another
long stretch of years. surprisingly the toilet parts are inexpensive.
buy a nice new seat. buy a variety of all of them and return what you
don't use. see them all at:
www.fluidmaster.com
see also parts at:
www.hdsupply.com

Jeffy3 wrote:
> While replacing the flapper valve in our American Standard toilet
> (probably 20 something years old) the overflow tube broke right off at
> the bottom. It appears that it was screwed in but that the threaded
> end is still stuck in the bottom. Any advise on what to do? It would
> seem that if I could just get the threaded piece out I could get a new
> overflow tube and screw it in. Thanks in advance.


Posted by hallerb@aol.com on December 23, 2006, 7:07 pm


leaks can be minimized by putting silicon bathtub caulk on all sealing
surfaces after drying everything well.

then let the reassembled toilet sit a couple hours so it cures well

This taught to me by a old plumber who tired of taking stugf apart
twice.

Stuff peels right off if ever necessary:) no long term damage


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