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Toilet flapper too buoyant?

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Toilet flapper too buoyant? Cyberiade.it Anonymous Remaile 08-14-2006
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Posted by Cyberiade.it Anonymous Remaile on August 14, 2006, 8:09 pm
I bought a $4 Wal-Mart toilet flush valve assembly, imported by
"Waxman" from China. The installation went OK, except that the
tank-to-bowl gasket was 3/4" taller than the old one, requiring
shims. It's a Lamosa Sahara toilet from the early 70s. I'm
assuming that has nothing to do with the following.

The problem is that the flapper won't quite close at all the way
without a small push or weight. It uses a trapped air bubble to
stay open until the tank is cleared, but it seems too light to
overcome the lift when it gets horizontal near the bottom.

I want to know if anyone has tried drilling small holes on top
to allow air to escape from the "dome" of the flapper? It's a
fine balance down there. I am now using a brass nut as a weight
but I'd like a cleaner method.

N.P.


Posted by Walter R. on August 14, 2006, 8:27 pm
They make weighted flappers. HD probably has something like this.

http://www.hardwareworld.com/Water-Saver-Flapper-pRNHCER.aspx

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-
>I bought a $4 Wal-Mart toilet flush valve assembly, imported by
> "Waxman" from China. The installation went OK, except that the
> tank-to-bowl gasket was 3/4" taller than the old one, requiring
> shims. It's a Lamosa Sahara toilet from the early 70s. I'm
> assuming that has nothing to do with the following.
>
> The problem is that the flapper won't quite close at all the way
> without a small push or weight. It uses a trapped air bubble to
> stay open until the tank is cleared, but it seems too light to
> overcome the lift when it gets horizontal near the bottom.
>
> I want to know if anyone has tried drilling small holes on top
> to allow air to escape from the "dome" of the flapper? It's a
> fine balance down there. I am now using a brass nut as a weight
> but I'd like a cleaner method.
>
> N.P.
>



Posted by jim on August 14, 2006, 10:29 pm
Buy a good one from fluidmaster as they usauly work well and are set up
to work on most toilets
Cyberiade.it Anonymous Remailer wrote:
> I bought a $4 Wal-Mart toilet flush valve assembly, imported by
> "Waxman" from China. The installation went OK, except that the
> tank-to-bowl gasket was 3/4" taller than the old one, requiring
> shims. It's a Lamosa Sahara toilet from the early 70s. I'm
> assuming that has nothing to do with the following.
>
> The problem is that the flapper won't quite close at all the way
> without a small push or weight. It uses a trapped air bubble to
> stay open until the tank is cleared, but it seems too light to
> overcome the lift when it gets horizontal near the bottom.
>
> I want to know if anyone has tried drilling small holes on top
> to allow air to escape from the "dome" of the flapper? It's a
> fine balance down there. I am now using a brass nut as a weight
> but I'd like a cleaner method.
>
> N.P.


Posted by mm on August 14, 2006, 11:39 pm
On 15 Aug 2006 02:09:20 +0200, Cyberiade.it Anonymous Remailer

>I bought a $4 Wal-Mart toilet flush valve assembly, imported by
>"Waxman" from China. The installation went OK, except that the
>tank-to-bowl gasket was 3/4" taller than the old one, requiring
>shims. It's a Lamosa Sahara toilet from the early 70s. I'm
>assuming that has nothing to do with the following.
>
>The problem is that the flapper won't quite close at all the way
>without a small push or weight. It uses a trapped air bubble to
>stay open until the tank is cleared, but it seems too light to
>overcome the lift when it gets horizontal near the bottom.
>
>I want to know if anyone has tried drilling small holes on top
>to allow air to escape from the "dome" of the flapper? It's a
>fine balance down there. I am now using a brass nut as a weight
>but I'd like a cleaner method.

I'd stay with the brass nut. I can't think of examples but I've gone
years or decades with no problems with IMDs, improvised mechanical
devices.
>
>N.P.


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