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Using Green Framing Lumber for a header

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Using Green Framing Lumber for a header Paul A 06-18-2005
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Posted by Paul A on June 18, 2005, 11:43 am
I need to install a new header to enlarge a window (in a load bearing wall).

I was always under the impressing that kiln dried lumber, instead of green
lumber.
was the only way to go when altering existing construction, to avoid the
problems
of shrinkage.

As far as I can discover, only green lumber is available in New Jersey for
anything
larger than 2 x 4's.

I am particularly concerned that the ceiling, which is supported by this
header,
will crack over time, as the new header shrinks.

Am I worrying about this unnecessarily, or is there a technique of
installation
that avoids the problems of shrinkage?



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Posted by George on June 18, 2005, 12:43 pm

> I need to install a new header to enlarge a window (in a load bearing
wall).
>
> I was always under the impressing that kiln dried lumber, instead of green
> lumber.
> was the only way to go when altering existing construction, to avoid the
> problems
> of shrinkage.
>
> As far as I can discover, only green lumber is available in New Jersey for
> anything
> larger than 2 x 4's.
>
> I am particularly concerned that the ceiling, which is supported by this
> header,
> will crack over time, as the new header shrinks.
>
> Am I worrying about this unnecessarily, or is there a technique of
> installation
> that avoids the problems of shrinkage?
>
>

Yes. Engineered products are a great way to go, though if it were my place,
I'd contact a man with a calculator or overbuild like crazy, absent "enough
support for the span" data.



Posted by Slowhand on June 18, 2005, 12:46 pm

>I need to install a new header to enlarge a window (in a load bearing
>wall).
>
> I was always under the impressing that kiln dried lumber, instead of green
> lumber.
> was the only way to go when altering existing construction, to avoid the
> problems
> of shrinkage.
>
> As far as I can discover, only green lumber is available in New Jersey for
> anything
> larger than 2 x 4's.
>
> I am particularly concerned that the ceiling, which is supported by this
> header,
> will crack over time, as the new header shrinks.
>
> Am I worrying about this unnecessarily, or is there a technique of
> installation
> that avoids the problems of shrinkage?

Window header stock (beams) doesn't come kiln dried. At least I've never
seen it come that way. Your option is to use 2x (insert width here) kiln
dried stock and nail them together using 1/2" plywood in between to fill the
width. Or buy the thick stock beam you need which is what I would do if I
was framing it.
SH - The "general contracting" woodworker



Posted by Swingman on June 18, 2005, 12:53 pm
"Paul A" wrote in message

> Am I worrying about this unnecessarily, or is there a technique of
> installation
> that avoids the problems of shrinkage?

Your particular header situation is a good place to use an engineered
laminate material/beam. Will cost you a bit more, but not unduly, and you
won't have the problem you are anticipating.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/05



Posted by HerHusband on June 18, 2005, 2:42 pm
> I need to install a new header to enlarge a window
> (in a load bearing wall).
> avoid the problems of shrinkage.
> only green lumber is available ... for anything larger than 2 x 4's.

Around here (Pacific NW) I can get kiln dried up to 2x8's or so, but 2x6 is
about the largest size that's easy to find.

In any case, I used green 2x10's for our door and window headers and
haven't noticed any shrinkage problems (no drywall cracks).

>> use 2x (insert width here) kiln dried stock and nail them together
>> using 1/2" plywood in between to fill the width.

That assumes a 2x4 wall. In our house (2x6 walls), I used two 2x10's, one
on the outside of the wall, and one on the inside of the wall. Then I
filled the space in between with fiberglass insulation. Our largest span
was 5' and only had the roof load above, so this worked very well. Of
course, the success depends on the span and the load it is carrying.

>> buy the thick stock beam you need

A solid beam weighs more, will probably shrink more, and doesn't provide
much insulating value. Also, since this sounds like a remodeling situation,
I would think it would be harder to get a solid beam in place than a couple
of 2x's.

Anthony

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