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Vapor barrier coating for particle board Mail Man Bob 07-29-2007
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Posted by Mail Man Bob on July 29, 2007, 10:02 pm
Yes, same here. These are by Mid Continent thru a reputable installer.

> If you haven't bought cabinets yet I would check local stores instead of
HD
> or Lowes. I did and found better quality installed for less money than HD
> and Lowes wanted without installation included.
>
>
>
> >I am going to install some kitchen cabinets. The structural parts are
> > plywood, front are solid, but most of the rest is particle board. The
mfr
> > calls it something else (furniture board?), but it's plain old particle
> > board as far as I can tell.
> >
> > The particle board pieces are cover with something - either laminate or
> > plastic - except any places that are not visible.
> >
> > I know of 2 people personally who had dealings with new kitchen
cabinets -
> > one in apt , other in a house - and both suffered allergic reactions to
> > the
> > binding chemicals - formaldehyde or other.
> >
> > Going to all-plywood or all-wood construction sends the price to a
> > different
> > orbit, since this would essentially be doing a 'custom' job. So for
cost,
> > we have to use as standard a material as we can.
> >
> > My thought is to coat the uncovered surfaces with some kind of sealer -
> > either a primer or water seal product - to seal in any vapors inside.
> >
> > Long story, I know.... but 2 questions...
> >
> > 1 - Can someone recommend the best type of sealer? I have seen water-
and
> > oil-based at Home Depot, as well as various primers, etc.
> >
> > 2 - I heard something recently about the govt outlawing carcinogens in
> > particle board. Anyone know about that?
> >
> > Whew! That's a long one. (The longer the better. :O)
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>



Plumbing 468x60
Posted by John Grossbohlin on July 29, 2007, 10:01 pm

>I am going to install some kitchen cabinets. The structural parts are
> plywood, front are solid, but most of the rest is particle board. The mfr
> calls it something else (furniture board?), but it's plain old particle
> board as far as I can tell.
>
> The particle board pieces are cover with something - either laminate or
> plastic - except any places that are not visible.
>
> I know of 2 people personally who had dealings with new kitchen cabinets -
> one in apt , other in a house - and both suffered allergic reactions to
> the
> binding chemicals - formaldehyde or other.

Another approach to this is to "cook off" the chemicals that are outgassing
before the cabinets are brought into the home... The outgassing can be sped
up by placing the cabinets in a relatively hot environment for a while. For
example, an uninsulated closed up garage that gets a lot of sun, or a sunny
"Florida room" that can be isolated from the main home is probably
sufficient for this purpose. The same type of thing can be done to cook off
the chemicals in carpets, polyester fiber fill in pillows, etc.

Another approach is to use forced ventilation to remove the chemical laden
air from the home. An air-to-air heat exchanger is advisable to save on the
"conditioned air" expense.

Look up Multiple Chemical Sensitivity (MCS) and/or Environmental Illness for
more information on speeding up the outgassing process and on how to deal
with internal air pollution in general.

John



Posted by Mail Man Bob on July 30, 2007, 2:15 pm
Thanks, Ron. Shellac it is.

> Shellac has the best vapor-barrier properties of any finish, even the
> newer plastic ones. Ten billion lac bugs can't be wrong.
>
> Ron Hock
> www.hockfinishes.com
>
> Mail Man Bob wrote:
> > I am going to install some kitchen cabinets. The structural parts are
> > plywood, front are solid, but most of the rest is particle board. The
mfr
> > calls it something else (furniture board?), but it's plain old particle
> > board as far as I can tell.
> >
> > The particle board pieces are cover with something - either laminate or
> > plastic - except any places that are not visible.
> >
> > I know of 2 people personally who had dealings with new kitchen
cabinets -
> > one in apt , other in a house - and both suffered allergic reactions to
the
> > binding chemicals - formaldehyde or other.
> >
> > Going to all-plywood or all-wood construction sends the price to a
different
> > orbit, since this would essentially be doing a 'custom' job. So for
cost,
> > we have to use as standard a material as we can.
> >
> > My thought is to coat the uncovered surfaces with some kind of sealer -
> > either a primer or water seal product - to seal in any vapors inside.
> >
> > Long story, I know.... but 2 questions...
> >
> > 1 - Can someone recommend the best type of sealer? I have seen water-
and
> > oil-based at Home Depot, as well as various primers, etc.
> >
> > 2 - I heard something recently about the govt outlawing carcinogens in
> > particle board. Anyone know about that?
> >
> > Whew! That's a long one. (The longer the better. :O)
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Ron Hock
> HOCK TOOLS www.hocktools.com



Posted by Mail Man Bob on July 30, 2007, 2:17 pm
Thanks everyone for all the great info. I'll trot down to the shellac
store and let you know how it turns out.

What's a good binaries group that most people have access to -- I'll post a
few snap shots FWIW.

Bob



Posted by Ron Hock on July 31, 2007, 12:42 pm
Mail Man Bob wrote:
> Thanks everyone for all the great info. I'll trot down to the shellac
> store and let you know how it turns out.

Mix it yourself, Bob. The pre-mixed stuff comes with the risk of it
being too old to work properly. Once mixed, shellac and alcohol begin to
form esters that retard drying and reduce the dried film's water
resistance. Use denatured alcohol (again, buy fresh as it absorbs water
from the air while open and most half-cans that are sitting around
probably contain more water than you'd want) in a ratio of about one
pound shellac flakes to one gallon of alcohol (precision not required).
For smaller quantities, do the math.

It's my opinion that the reason shellac fell from favor a few decades
ago was due to the prevalence of canned shellac that didn't perform as
well as it could because it was too old. That, and the hoopla around
those new polyurethanes led the market to assume that shellac was
old-hat. There's still a prevalent myth that a wet glass will leave a
ring on a shellac finish but that's not true if the shellac had been
freshly mixed. Shellac will, however, soften in the prolonged presence
of distilled spirits (whiskey, et al -- so mop up after that party) and
it begins to soften at about 140F so you can't set a cuppa on it without
a coaster or it will deboss a mug-shaped ring.

Sorry to go on and on but the more I learn about shellac the more I like
the stuff. Good luck with your project, Bob. I think sealing those
panels is a good, healthy idea and I've no doubt that shellac is the
best finish to use.

Ron
--
Ron Hock
HOCK TOOLS www.hocktools.com & www.hockfinishes.com

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