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Vapor barrier coating for particle board Mail Man Bob 07-29-2007
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Posted by Mail Man Bob on August 7, 2007, 2:06 am
Where's a good place to get shellac for mixing yourself? All I could find
were quarts at Home Depot, but I'm sure they are pre-mixed.

> Mail Man Bob wrote:
> > Thanks everyone for all the great info. I'll trot down to the shellac
> > store and let you know how it turns out.
>
> Mix it yourself, Bob. The pre-mixed stuff comes with the risk of it
> being too old to work properly. Once mixed, shellac and alcohol begin to
> form esters that retard drying and reduce the dried film's water
> resistance. Use denatured alcohol (again, buy fresh as it absorbs water
> from the air while open and most half-cans that are sitting around
> probably contain more water than you'd want) in a ratio of about one
> pound shellac flakes to one gallon of alcohol (precision not required).
> For smaller quantities, do the math.
>
> It's my opinion that the reason shellac fell from favor a few decades
> ago was due to the prevalence of canned shellac that didn't perform as
> well as it could because it was too old. That, and the hoopla around
> those new polyurethanes led the market to assume that shellac was
> old-hat. There's still a prevalent myth that a wet glass will leave a
> ring on a shellac finish but that's not true if the shellac had been
> freshly mixed. Shellac will, however, soften in the prolonged presence
> of distilled spirits (whiskey, et al -- so mop up after that party) and
> it begins to soften at about 140F so you can't set a cuppa on it without
> a coaster or it will deboss a mug-shaped ring.
>
> Sorry to go on and on but the more I learn about shellac the more I like
> the stuff. Good luck with your project, Bob. I think sealing those
> panels is a good, healthy idea and I've no doubt that shellac is the
> best finish to use.
>
> Ron
> --
> Ron Hock
> HOCK TOOLS www.hocktools.com & www.hockfinishes.com



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Posted by B A R R Y on August 7, 2007, 7:42 am
Mail Man Bob wrote:
> Where's a good place to get shellac for mixing yourself? All I could find
> were quarts at Home Depot, but I'm sure they are pre-mixed.

Woodcraft, Homestead Finishing, or other better woodworking finish
suppliers. It comes as dry flakes or buttons, which need to be chopped
up for faster dissolving.

Personally, I've been very happy with fresh Zinnser Seal Coat, available
at GOOD paint stores, but not necessarily the big home centers.

Posted by GROVER on July 31, 2007, 12:30 pm
> I am going to install some kitchen cabinets. The structural parts are
> plywood, front are solid, but most of the rest is particle board. The mfr
> calls it something else (furniture board?), but it's plain old particle
> board as far as I can tell.
>
> The particle board pieces are cover with something - either laminate or
> plastic - except any places that are not visible.
>
> I know of 2 people personally who had dealings with new kitchen cabinets -
> one in apt , other in a house - and both suffered allergic reactions to the
> binding chemicals - formaldehyde or other.
>
> Going to all-plywood or all-wood construction sends the price to a different
> orbit, since this would essentially be doing a 'custom' job. So for cost,
> we have to use as standard a material as we can.
>
> My thought is to coat the uncovered surfaces with some kind of sealer -
> either a primer or water seal product - to seal in any vapors inside.
>
> Long story, I know.... but 2 questions...
>
> 1 - Can someone recommend the best type of sealer? I have seen water- and
> oil-based at Home Depot, as well as various primers, etc.
>
> 2 - I heard something recently about the govt outlawing carcinogens in
> particle board. Anyone know about that?
>
> Whew! That's a long one. (The longer the better. :O)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob

While on a work assignment in Germany many years ago, I was made aware
that the German building code which governed casework, required that
all exposed edges of melamine board ( particle board substrate) be
covered. Presumably for the formaldehyde outgassing problem mentioned
here. The German cabinet makers used edgebanding at that time,
Joe G


Posted by Mail Man Bob on July 31, 2007, 12:41 pm

> > I am going to install some kitchen cabinets. The structural parts are
> > plywood, front are solid, but most of the rest is particle board. The
mfr
> > calls it something else (furniture board?), but it's plain old particle
> > board as far as I can tell.
> >
> > The particle board pieces are cover with something - either laminate or
> > plastic - except any places that are not visible.
> >
> > I know of 2 people personally who had dealings with new kitchen
cabinets -
> > one in apt , other in a house - and both suffered allergic reactions to
the
> > binding chemicals - formaldehyde or other.
> >
> > Going to all-plywood or all-wood construction sends the price to a
different
> > orbit, since this would essentially be doing a 'custom' job. So for
cost,
> > we have to use as standard a material as we can.
> >
> > My thought is to coat the uncovered surfaces with some kind of sealer -
> > either a primer or water seal product - to seal in any vapors inside.
> >
> > Long story, I know.... but 2 questions...
> >
> > 1 - Can someone recommend the best type of sealer? I have seen water-
and
> > oil-based at Home Depot, as well as various primers, etc.
> >
> > 2 - I heard something recently about the govt outlawing carcinogens in
> > particle board. Anyone know about that?
> >
> > Whew! That's a long one. (The longer the better. :O)
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Bob
>
> While on a work assignment in Germany many years ago, I was made aware
> that the German building code which governed casework, required that
> all exposed edges of melamine board ( particle board substrate) be
> covered. Presumably for the formaldehyde outgassing problem mentioned
> here. The German cabinet makers used edgebanding at that time,
> Joe G
>

Thanks, Joe. Do you know where to get edgebanding?



Posted by GROVER on July 31, 2007, 1:01 pm
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > > I am going to install some kitchen cabinets. The structural parts are
> > > plywood, front are solid, but most of the rest is particle board. The
> mfr
> > > calls it something else (furniture board?), but it's plain old particle
> > > board as far as I can tell.
>
> > > The particle board pieces are cover with something - either laminate or
> > > plastic - except any places that are not visible.
>
> > > I know of 2 people personally who had dealings with new kitchen
> cabinets -
> > > one in apt , other in a house - and both suffered allergic reactions to
> the
> > > binding chemicals - formaldehyde or other.
>
> > > Going to all-plywood or all-wood construction sends the price to a
> different
> > > orbit, since this would essentially be doing a 'custom' job. So for
> cost,
> > > we have to use as standard a material as we can.
>
> > > My thought is to coat the uncovered surfaces with some kind of sealer -
> > > either a primer or water seal product - to seal in any vapors inside.
>
> > > Long story, I know.... but 2 questions...
>
> > > 1 - Can someone recommend the best type of sealer? I have seen water-
> and
> > > oil-based at Home Depot, as well as various primers, etc.
>
> > > 2 - I heard something recently about the govt outlawing carcinogens in
> > > particle board. Anyone know about that?
>
> > > Whew! That's a long one. (The longer the better. :O)
>
> > > Thanks.
>
> > > Bob
>
> > While on a work assignment in Germany many years ago, I was made aware
> > that the German building code which governed casework, required that
> > all exposed edges of melamine board ( particle board substrate) be
> > covered. Presumably for the formaldehyde outgassing problem mentioned
> > here. The German cabinet makers used edgebanding at that time,
> > Joe G
>
> Thanks, Joe. Do you know where to get edgebanding?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

i use a heat activated form of edge banding which can be applied with
an ordinary household iron. I purchase it at a local cabinet makers
supply. Usually these places supply the local cabinet shops with
hardwood veneer plywood,hinges, drawer slides, finishing supplies et
al.The Borgs don,t seem to carry edge banding.
Joe G


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