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Posted by ransley on October 6, 2008, 10:12 am
> David Nebenzahl wrote:
> > On 10/5/2008 6:49 PM The Ranger spake thus:
>
> >> I recovered three tree-ring disks from a 100+ year old tree
> >> that was recently cut down. I've sanded the disk down smooth
> >> and the rings and rays look really good. I would like to apply
> >> a finish to the tops to really enhance the tree rings while
> >> offering some form of protection at the same time.
>
> >> I've used Varathane in the past on wood projects but these
> >> rings will be seeing a lot of hands-on activities so Varathane
> >> might not be the best idea.
>
> > Varathane just happens to be one variety of varnish (one containing
> > polyurethane). I'd use varnish, but instead of Varathane, I'd use a
> > good marine spar varnish (like McCloskey). Even tougher; a couple of
> > coats ought to stand up to any amount of handling.
>
> 1. =A0Spar varnish is great stuff for spars, not so great for anything el=
se.
> It is good for spars because they bend and spar varnish has a higher than
> normal amount of oil - the oil makes the dried film more flexible than
> normal but it also makes it softer.
>
> 2. Surface film depends on the amount of solids in the coating material a=
nd
> the thickness with which it is applied; however, two coats of anything ot=
her
> than catalyzed, poured material is insufficient to give a decent film tha=
t
> will last and protect for a reasonable amount of time. =A0That is doubly =
true
> on end grain which is what the OP has.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
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> - Show quoted text -
Spar or Marine rated is the only thing that will hold up against UV
rays and take the expansion -contraction that happens outside, for
doors its the best. I have jobs that 20 yrs later P&L marine is fine,
a door in winter can go from 0f-70f when the sun hits it in winter in
an hour, expanding the door measurably.
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