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WAS: Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem

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WAS: Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem Manjo 05-02-2008
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Posted by Manjo on May 2, 2008, 12:37 pm
The earlier thread WAS getting too long and awkward.

I had a question on the spark arrester: the closest thing I can find
is a slotted "cap" on the muffler that can be adjusted to direct
exhaust. My muffler is similar to the one on page 19, reference
number 300D.

http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B&S_Engine/MS2810%20ILLUS%20PARTS%20LIST.pdf

The difference is, after removing the deflector, reference number 676,
the cylindrical muffler is one welded/soldered piece. I can easily
blow 15-psi air through the muffler so I'm assuming it's not clogged.
Is this a safe assumption?

I also soaked the carburetor in Berrymans B-19 carb cleaner solution
for about 2 hours with no improvement. The bike still takes several
pulls to get it started and it has to run at 1/2 choke until it's
warmed up enough to run with no choke at all. The engine still does
not run at 100% speed even after it's warmed up.

Just a quick summation for anyone tuning in late: thoroughly cleaned/
blew out carb with compressed air, replaced diaphragm, cleaned pick-up
tube. Replaced carb gaskets to engine and to gas tank. Thoroughly
cleaned out gas tank. Cleaned and re-installed magneto at proper
setting/height from flywheel. Changed the spark plug twice. Oil
filled to top of filler hole. Compression is 75 psi. Rough leak down
test goes to 100 psi with no audible leaks.

I connected a spark gap tester between the spark plug and the cable.
I was able to start the engine and run with the tester in place set at
approximately 0.030 inches. I get a bluish-orangey color spark across
the gap. As the engine slows down, the spark breaks into two orange
lines with a little blue now and then. Since the engine runs at good
speed with a more blue than orange in the spark, I'm assuming the
orange color is there because the gap tester is taking away some of
the current.

Thanks,

Manjo 1998 Briggs and Stratton "L" head engine on a Giant-Vac leaf
blower

Posted by ransley on May 2, 2008, 12:41 pm
> The earlier thread WAS getting too long and awkward.
>
> I had a question on the spark arrester: =A0the closest thing I can find
> is a slotted "cap" on the muffler that can be adjusted to direct
> exhaust. =A0My muffler is similar to the one on page 19, reference
> number 300D.
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B&S_Engine/MS2810%20ILLUS%20PARTS%...
>
> The difference is, after removing the deflector, reference number 676,
> the cylindrical muffler is one welded/soldered piece. =A0I can easily
> blow 15-psi air through the muffler so I'm assuming it's not clogged.
> Is this a safe assumption?
>
> I also soaked the carburetor in Berrymans B-19 carb cleaner solution
> for about 2 hours with no improvement. =A0The bike still takes several
> pulls to get it started and it has to run at 1/2 choke until it's
> warmed up enough to run with no choke at all. =A0The engine still does
> not run at 100% speed even after it's warmed up.
>
> Just a quick summation for anyone tuning in late: =A0thoroughly cleaned/
> blew out carb with compressed air, replaced diaphragm, cleaned pick-up
> tube. =A0Replaced carb gaskets to engine and to gas tank. =A0Thoroughly
> cleaned out gas tank. =A0Cleaned and re-installed magneto at proper
> setting/height from flywheel. =A0Changed the spark plug twice. =A0Oil
> filled to top of filler hole. =A0Compression is 75 psi. =A0Rough leak down=

> test goes to 100 psi with no audible leaks.
>
> I connected a spark gap tester between the spark plug and the cable.
> I was able to start the engine and run with the tester in place set at
> approximately 0.030 inches. =A0I get a bluish-orangey color spark across
> the gap. =A0As the engine slows down, the spark breaks into two orange
> lines with a little blue now and then. =A0Since the engine runs at good
> speed with a more blue than orange in the spark, I'm assuming the
> orange color is there because the gap tester is taking away some of
> the current.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Manjo 1998 Briggs and Stratton "L" head engine on a Giant-Vac leaf
> blower

isnt 75 lb low

Posted by Oren on May 2, 2008, 9:35 pm
wrote:

>The earlier thread WAS getting too long and awkward.
>
>I had a question on the spark arrester: the closest thing I can find
>is a slotted "cap" on the muffler that can be adjusted to direct
>exhaust. My muffler is similar to the one on page 19, reference
>number 300D.
>
>http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B&S_Engine/MS2810%20ILLUS%20PARTS%20LIST.pdf
>
>The difference is, after removing the deflector, reference number 676,
>the cylindrical muffler is one welded/soldered piece. I can easily
>blow 15-psi air through the muffler so I'm assuming it's not clogged.
>Is this a safe assumption?
>
>I also soaked the carburetor in Berrymans B-19 carb cleaner solution
>for about 2 hours with no improvement. The bike still takes several
>pulls to get it started and it has to run at 1/2 choke until it's
>warmed up enough to run with no choke at all. The engine still does
>not run at 100% speed even after it's warmed up.
>
>Just a quick summation for anyone tuning in late: thoroughly cleaned/
>blew out carb with compressed air, replaced diaphragm, cleaned pick-up
>tube. Replaced carb gaskets to engine and to gas tank. Thoroughly
>cleaned out gas tank. Cleaned and re-installed magneto at proper
>setting/height from flywheel. Changed the spark plug twice. Oil
>filled to top of filler hole. Compression is 75 psi. Rough leak down
>test goes to 100 psi with no audible leaks.
>
>I connected a spark gap tester between the spark plug and the cable.
>I was able to start the engine and run with the tester in place set at
>approximately 0.030 inches. I get a bluish-orangey color spark across
>the gap. As the engine slows down, the spark breaks into two orange
>lines with a little blue now and then. Since the engine runs at good
>speed with a more blue than orange in the spark, I'm assuming the
>orange color is there because the gap tester is taking away some of
>the current.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Manjo 1998 Briggs and Stratton "L" head engine on a Giant-Vac leaf
>blower

The orange weak spark, would make me look at the magneto for
replacement. As I recall; a magneto will weaken, so will the spark.
This is not a total failure of the magneto, but a slow death.

Check for cracks on any wires, also. Just me :))

I suspect the coil on the magneto has a hairline crack, but they can
be difficult to detect.

Older cars with cracked coils would run fine, but the day it rained
and the coil was hot the cracks expanded to allow moisture in the
coil that killed the engine.

A simple thing is to check the plug terminal. Some firing problems can
results from a damaged wire. Simple snip the terminator off and
replace it.

Thanks for the update. I would like to hear the end results.


Posted by Manjo on May 3, 2008, 1:05 pm
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >The earlier thread WAS getting too long and awkward.
>
> >I had a question on the spark arrester: =A0the closest thing I can find
> >is a slotted "cap" on the muffler that can be adjusted to direct
> >exhaust. =A0My muffler is similar to the one on page 19, reference
> >number 300D.
>
> >http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B&S_Engine/MS2810%20ILLUS%20PARTS%...
>
> >The difference is, after removing the deflector, reference number 676,
> >the cylindrical muffler is one welded/soldered piece. =A0I can easily
> >blow 15-psi air through the muffler so I'm assuming it's not clogged.
> >Is this a safe assumption?
>
> >I also soaked the carburetor in Berrymans B-19 carb cleaner solution
> >for about 2 hours with no improvement. =A0The bike still takes several
> >pulls to get it started and it has to run at 1/2 choke until it's
> >warmed up enough to run with no choke at all. =A0The engine still does
> >not run at 100% speed even after it's warmed up.
>
> >Just a quick summation for anyone tuning in late: =A0thoroughly cleaned/
> >blew out carb with compressed air, replaced diaphragm, cleaned pick-up
> >tube. =A0Replaced carb gaskets to engine and to gas tank. =A0Thoroughly
> >cleaned out gas tank. =A0Cleaned and re-installed magneto at proper
> >setting/height from flywheel. =A0Changed the spark plug twice. =A0Oil
> >filled to top of filler hole. =A0Compression is 75 psi. =A0Rough leak dow=
n
> >test goes to 100 psi with no audible leaks.
>
> >I connected a spark gap tester between the spark plug and the cable.
> >I was able to start the engine and run with the tester in place set at
> >approximately 0.030 inches. =A0I get a bluish-orangey color spark across
> >the gap. =A0As the engine slows down, the spark breaks into two orange
> >lines with a little blue now and then. =A0Since the engine runs at good
> >speed with a more blue than orange in the spark, I'm assuming the
> >orange color is there because the gap tester is taking away some of
> >the current.
>
> >Thanks,
>
> >Manjo 1998 Briggs and Stratton "L" head engine on a Giant-Vac leaf
> >blower
>
> The orange weak spark, would make me look at the magneto for
> replacement. As I recall; a magneto will weaken, so will the spark.
> This is not a total failure of the magneto, but a slow death.
>
> Check for cracks on any wires, also. Just me :))
>
> I suspect the coil on the magneto has a hairline crack, but they can
> be difficult to detect.
>
> Older cars with cracked coils would run fine, but the day it rained
> and the coil was hot the cracks expanded =A0to allow moisture in the
> coil =A0that killed the engine.
>
> A simple thing is to check the plug terminal. Some firing problems can
> results from a =A0damaged wire. Simple snip the terminator off and
> replace it.
>
> Thanks for the update. I would like to hear the end results.- Hide quoted =
text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I'll try that. I think I have a couple of spark plug caps I can use.
Thanks, Manjo

Posted by on May 3, 2008, 8:59 am
My thoughts are still with the carb...but I would pull the fly and
check the key.

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