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Posted by Manjo on May 3, 2008, 1:14 pm
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> > The earlier thread WAS getting too long and awkward.
>
> > I had a question on the spark arrester: =A0the closest thing I can find
> > is a slotted "cap" on the muffler that can be adjusted to direct
> > exhaust. =A0My muffler is similar to the one on page 19, reference
> > number 300D.
>
> >http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B&S_Engine/MS2810%20ILLUS%20PARTS%...
>
> > The difference is, after removing the deflector, reference number 676,
> > the cylindrical muffler is one welded/soldered piece. =A0I can easily
> > blow 15-psi air through the muffler so I'm assuming it's not clogged.
> > Is this a safe assumption?
>
> > I also soaked the carburetor in Berrymans B-19 carb cleaner solution
> > for about 2 hours with no improvement. =A0The bike still takes several
> > pulls to get it started and it has to run at 1/2 choke until it's
> > warmed up enough to run with no choke at all. =A0The engine still does
> > not run at 100% speed even after it's warmed up.
>
> > Just a quick summation for anyone tuning in late: =A0thoroughly cleaned/=
> > blew out carb with compressed air, replaced diaphragm, cleaned pick-up
> > tube. =A0Replaced carb gaskets to engine and to gas tank. =A0Thoroughly
> > cleaned out gas tank. =A0Cleaned and re-installed magneto at proper
> > setting/height from flywheel. =A0Changed the spark plug twice. =A0Oil
> > filled to top of filler hole. =A0Compression is 75 psi. =A0Rough leak do=
wn
> > test goes to 100 psi with no audible leaks.
>
> > I connected a spark gap tester between the spark plug and the cable.
> > I was able to start the engine and run with the tester in place set at
> > approximately 0.030 inches. =A0I get a bluish-orangey color spark across=
> > the gap. =A0As the engine slows down, the spark breaks into two orange
> > lines with a little blue now and then. =A0Since the engine runs at good
> > speed with a more blue than orange in the spark, I'm assuming the
> > orange color is there because the gap tester is taking away some of
> > the current.
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Manjo 1998 Briggs and Stratton "L" head engine on a Giant-Vac leaf
> > blower
>
> 135 might be new compression, 110 is usable, 75lb wong get you full
> power ever, its worn out.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I don't think I'm getting full power all the time. 75 psi was with a
screw-in compression tester. I connected my compressor to the same
line and ran the pressure up to 100 psi with the piston at TDC. Since
I couldn't find the compression spec for the engine, I was hesitant to
push beyond 100 psi any higher for fear of blowing out the head
gasket. I get my leak down tester back in a few days. I'll give the
piston, rings, and valves a better test then.
I'm also going to try to slowly move the piston through the
compression and firing strokes to see if I get any unusual compression
loss due to worn rings and/or worn or scored cylinders walls.
Manjo
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