If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by Lou on June 29, 2007, 10:13 am
Am about to get a newer machine.
Currently have regular valves at the wall (recessed in a small box).
Can I add lever type valves after the existing valves (which are very
hard to turn).
Also, is that armored hose worth the cost?
Lou
|
|
Posted by dpb on June 29, 2007, 10:27 am
Lou wrote:
> Am about to get a newer machine.
> Currently have regular valves at the wall (recessed in a small box).
> Can I add lever type valves after the existing valves (which are very
> hard to turn).
> Also, is that armored hose worth the cost?
Only if you have an unarmored one burst... :)
--
|
|
Posted by Tom G on June 29, 2007, 12:58 pm
> Am about to get a newer machine.
> Currently have regular valves at the wall (recessed in a small box).
> Can I add lever type valves after the existing valves (which are very hard
> to turn).
> Also, is that armored hose worth the cost?
> Lou
Why not just replace the existing gate valves with a ball valve (lever turn)
valve set up. You can buy them as a single lever which turns off both
valves at once or a two lever set up. Shouldn't be a problem to replace
them, especially for a plumber. Although I'm sure you could jury rig a
setup with additional ball valves after the existing valves. The problem
with the existing valves is that eventually they get so hard to turn that
you don't turn them off between wash sessions and then, when a hose breaks
or washer fill level malfunctions, you have to run for the main house valve
to shut it down. What's the cost for a pair of steel braid reinforced
hoses..$22 versus $12 for the old rubber only hoses?
If a rubber hose breaks, it usually bursts open and floods the house, while
the steel reinforcement will prevent the bursting, only leaking until you
catch it and replace it. The peace of mind would be worth the $10
difference to me.
Tom G
|
|
Posted by on June 29, 2007, 1:17 pm
> The problem
> with the existing valves is that eventually they get so hard to turn that
> you don't turn them off between wash sessions [....]
I don't know anyone who does turn off their valves between wash
sessions. Most houses have the valves inacessible behind the machine,
you'd have to climb on top of the machine or pull the machine away from
the wall to turn off the valves.
I know a few people who turn their valves off on vacation, when the
house is going to be unoccupied for weeks, but most don't even do that.
Does anyone actually turn off their valves between every load of wash?
--
josh@phred.org is Joshua Putnam
<http://www.phred.org/~josh/>
Updated Infrared Photography Gallery:
<http://www.phred.org/~josh/photo/ir.html>
|
|
Posted by dpb on June 29, 2007, 1:21 pm
josh@phred.org wrote:
...
> Does anyone actually turn off their valves between every load of wash?
Oh, I'm sure there's somebody...
--
|
Page 1 of 8 1 2 3 > last >>
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Washing Machine Water Inlet Valves - Cheap Source of Solonoid Control Valves? | January 3, 2007, 7:11 pm |
| Washing Machine Valves | September 9, 2005, 3:45 pm |
| No hot water in washing machine | May 6, 2006, 12:26 pm |
| GE Washing Machine -- Water Outside of the Tub | October 22, 2006, 11:28 pm |
| Washing machine hot water | December 6, 2006, 9:02 pm |
| No hot water in washing machine | April 23, 2006, 11:59 am |
| Washing Machine Water Temperatures | March 1, 2006, 6:02 pm |
| washing machine discharge water...need help | June 25, 2006, 6:48 pm |
| Washing machine water level | September 2, 2006, 1:38 pm |
| Re: Only COLD water in washing machine | April 24, 2006, 6:40 pm |
|
|
> Currently have regular valves at the wall (recessed in a small box).
> Can I add lever type valves after the existing valves (which are very
> hard to turn).
> Also, is that armored hose worth the cost?