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Posted by Jon on August 19, 2005, 11:19 am
Ok, this tank is fairly new...I bough the house about 2 months ago and the
old owner just installed it.
It is a captive air tank and the pump itself is set to about 35.
There is an air valve on top of the pump, so is this problem as simple as
checking the air pressure in the tank and adjusting accordingly? Also the
tank says to be sure pressure is set 2psi below cut in. I assume that is 2
below the 35, right?
Thanks gfretwell@aol.com, Robert E. Lewis and Heathcliff for your responses.
>
> Robert E. Lewis wrote:
> > > Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions for this.
> > >
> > > My water pump, when it turns on after having the water running for a
bit,
> > > seems to have a false start.
> > > It will seem like it starts, the stop quickly (less then a second) and
> > then
> > > about 2-3 seconds later it will turn on for the duration of the cycle
and
> > > turn off again.
> > >
> > > Anyone heard of this? Any suggestions?
> >
> >
> > I've had that happen with my pumps, when the air "pad" in the pressure
tank
> > had gone, either the air being absorbed into the water in a conventional
> > tank, or when the diaphragm or bladder ruptured in a captive air tank.
The
> > result is that the pressure drops very rapidly when you turn the water
on,
> > then goes back up quickly, cycles up and down.
> >
> > Easy enough to fix it, with a conventional tank -- turn off the power to
the
> > pump and drain the tank, opening it somewhere high as well as draining
out
> > the bottom. I've only had to replace the captive air tanks when they
went
> > bad.
> >
> > The water pump when we first bought this place had a doo-hickie (or
maybe it
> > was a thingamabob) that injected a little bit of air into the tank each
time
> > the pump ran. It clogged up a lot and I never replaced it.
> >
> > Robert
>
> Note some air tanks have an air valve on top where you can just hook up
> a bicycle pump and pump some air in. Easier than draining, etc.
>
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