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Water Storage Tank - Plumbing the Pump & Pressure Tank

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Water Storage Tank - Plumbing the Pump & Pressure Tank Scott Townsend 08-07-2006
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Posted by Eric in North TX on August 7, 2006, 5:33 pm


Since it is all under pressure elevation isn't going to be all that
great a factor. The pressure switch usually is on the exit part of the
storage tank, but since pressure is constant till you get to the
booster pump anywhere before it should yield satisfactory results. You
should consider a pop-off valve on the well head for the "just in case
factor" like the switch not kicking the pump off.


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Posted by Rick on August 7, 2006, 10:04 pm

Why not pump from well to house and skip the tank? Anyway, if the draw
from the tank is from the 2500 gal. mark, then you only have a 2500
gal. tank since you can't get the bottom 2500 gal. If you were to get a
shallow well jet pump and a 20 gal. pressure tank, the switch is
already on the pump and the 50ft. or so from the tank is nothing. The
weight of the water in the tank is probably equal to a booster pump.
Keep the pipe from the tank at least 1" in diameter with a check valve
just before the pump so you don't lose prime.


Posted by Harry K on August 7, 2006, 10:20 pm

Scott Townsend wrote:
> I'm working on putting in Cement pads for my Well and 5000 gal Water Storage
> Tank. The tank is about 40' away from the Well.
>
> I want to make sure I make the Pads big enough for the equipment. I'd like
> to just have the Tank there on its own and then have lines back to the Well
> Pad for the Feed and Supply. So at the Well Head I'd have the Pump in the
> Well, the Buster pump for the stored water, the pressure tank and all of the
> lines to the irrigation, house, etc.
>
> Is there any rule of thumb on how far away the booster pump and Pressure
> tank should be from the storage tank?
>
> If the booster pump and Pressure tank are at the well head, they would be a
> foot or so lower in elevation then if they were at the tank itself.
>
> Any Suggestions or diagrams of external tank hookups would be great!
>
> Thank you!

Your hook-up looks good.

Rick has a point. Why draw from halfway up the tank?

You don't discuss the pump feeding the storeage tank. You need a
switch of some sort (float maybe) to control that pump.

Your booster pump should also have a low pressure cut-off in case the
storeage tank empties for some reason.

I would mount the booster pump and tank inside the house. Save
building a well house and makes maintenance a lot easier. Of course if
you are someplace that doesn't have to worryi about freezing...

Harry K


Posted by Scott Townsend on August 8, 2006, 10:06 am
Okay, So I know I left quite a few things out. Let me see if I can answer
some of the Questions.

The Tank's Main purpose is to be in compliance with the Fire Safe Standards
(we are in Northern CA on 2.5 acres)
It requires me to have 2500 Gallons of Water to be used at any time for a
Hydrant hookup. So the Hydrant is connected to the bottom on the Tank to be
able to draw the full potential of the tank. The Domestic Supply is at the
2500 gallon level so I would always have at least the 2500 gallons needed
for Fire Safe Standards.

Maybe Booster Pump is the wrong term. The Pump that will pressurize the
domestic supply line.

Since we can run our well Dry by running the sprinklers for several hours,
we wanted to be able to store the water and use it from the store and just
slowly refill the tank as needed.

I work for an Industrial control and automation company and have access to
sensors and controls that will deal with the water flow, level of the tank
and filling of the Tank, etc.

So Drawing #2, not as pretty but to Scale and more functional.
http://www.enm.com/scott/fire-safe-standards.pdf

So I'd like to know where I should place the Pump and Pressure Tank for the
Domestic Supply line. Should I put it all near the Well, or should I put it
near the Storage Tank?

I'd rather put it near the Well, so I do not have to bring 240v out to the
Storage Tank.

Thanks!


>
> Scott Townsend wrote:
>> I'm working on putting in Cement pads for my Well and 5000 gal Water
>> Storage
>> Tank. The tank is about 40' away from the Well.
>>
>> I want to make sure I make the Pads big enough for the equipment. I'd
>> like
>> to just have the Tank there on its own and then have lines back to the
>> Well
>> Pad for the Feed and Supply. So at the Well Head I'd have the Pump in
>> the
>> Well, the Buster pump for the stored water, the pressure tank and all of
>> the
>> lines to the irrigation, house, etc.
>>
>> Is there any rule of thumb on how far away the booster pump and Pressure
>> tank should be from the storage tank?
>>
>> If the booster pump and Pressure tank are at the well head, they would be
>> a
>> foot or so lower in elevation then if they were at the tank itself.
>>
>> Any Suggestions or diagrams of external tank hookups would be great!
>>
>> Thank you!
>
> Your hook-up looks good.
>
> Rick has a point. Why draw from halfway up the tank?
>
> You don't discuss the pump feeding the storeage tank. You need a
> switch of some sort (float maybe) to control that pump.
>
> Your booster pump should also have a low pressure cut-off in case the
> storeage tank empties for some reason.
>
> I would mount the booster pump and tank inside the house. Save
> building a well house and makes maintenance a lot easier. Of course if
> you are someplace that doesn't have to worryi about freezing...
>
> Harry K
>



Posted by Chris Lewis on August 8, 2006, 10:56 am
> Okay, So I know I left quite a few things out. Let me see if I can answer
> some of the Questions.

> The Tank's Main purpose is to be in compliance with the Fire Safe Standards
> (we are in Northern CA on 2.5 acres)
> It requires me to have 2500 Gallons of Water to be used at any time for a
> Hydrant hookup. So the Hydrant is connected to the bottom on the Tank to be
> able to draw the full potential of the tank. The Domestic Supply is at the
> 2500 gallon level so I would always have at least the 2500 gallons needed
> for Fire Safe Standards.

> Maybe Booster Pump is the wrong term. The Pump that will pressurize the
> domestic supply line.

In other words, the well pump fills the storage tank to a particular
level, and the tank isn't pressurized. The outflow from the 2500 gal
point goes off to be pressurized with the booster pump for household use
via the pressure tank. The well pump is controlled via a level switch
in the tank. The booster pump is controlled by a pressure switch on
the pressure tank (_and_ some sort of level switch in the tank.)

It's generally better to push water than to suck it. Which suggests
that the booster pump should be at the storage tank. If it isn't,
you're relying on gravity feed to get the water from the storage
tank to the booster - the line has to be big. Which also means that
you have to be very careful to have a level switch in the tank to
inhibit the booster pump if the water level gets too low (some inches
above the booster outflow, otherwise it'll suck air.

You can still have the booster in the house (or at the well head)
if the gravity feed will be strong enough.

It occurs to me that you might as well have the booster pump line
"tap" off the storage tank at the bottom to maximize head pressure.
Use a level switch to inhibit the booster when the water level
drops to the 2500 gal level. This still guarantees your "2500 gal
availability for fire" requirement, and at the same time makes
air problems/dry running the booster less likely - especially if
the booster is at the house or the well head.

Mind you, since the 2500gal reserve depends on a level switch, rather
than the inherent "tap off level", it may not be acceptable - you may
have to ask.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

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