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Water pressure in house?

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Water pressure in house? N8N 10-30-2007
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Posted by N8N on October 30, 2007, 11:23 am
Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
(there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
cycles and the telltale did not rise.

Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
expansion tank as well.

Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.

thanks,

nate

PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
(see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.


Posted by JoeSpareBedroom on October 30, 2007, 11:28 am
> Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
> not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
> pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
> (there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
> pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
> momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
> basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
> connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
> cycles and the telltale did not rise.
>
> Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
> or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
> when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
> line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
> meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
> book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
> pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
> expansion tank as well.
>
> Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
> looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
> could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.
>
> thanks,
>
> nate
>
> PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
> Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
> into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
> the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
> to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
> exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
> store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
> didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
> that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
> had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
> minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
> this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
> (see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
> close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.
>

Sounds like it's time to stop shopping at HD, and find a plumbing specialty
store, which will end up costing you less in the long run, especially when
you factor in the price of gasoline, and the legal fees you'll pay after you
strangle the next HD moron. :-)



Posted by Abe on October 30, 2007, 12:09 pm
>> Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
>> not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
>> pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
>> (there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
>> pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
>> momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
>> basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
>> connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
>> cycles and the telltale did not rise.
>>
>> Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
>> or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
>> when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
>> line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
>> meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
>> book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
>> pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
>> expansion tank as well.
>>
>> Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
>> looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
>> could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> nate
70 PSI won't hurt a thing. An expansion tank over the water heater is
still a good idea though.

Posted by Bob F on October 30, 2007, 12:26 pm

>>> Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
>>> not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
>>> pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
>>> (there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
>>> pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
>>> momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
>>> basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
>>> connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
>>> cycles and the telltale did not rise.
>>>
>>> Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
>>> or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
>>> when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
>>> line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
>>> meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
>>> book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
>>> pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
>>> expansion tank as well.
>>>
>>> Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
>>> looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
>>> could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>>
>>> nate
> 70 PSI won't hurt a thing. An expansion tank over the water heater is
> still a good idea though.

Agreed. I love my 70 psi.

Without something to prevent backflow from the house, the only reason I can see
for an expansion tank would be to prevent seepage when the water to the house or
heater gets shut off.

Bob



Posted by George on October 30, 2007, 11:38 am
N8N wrote:

>
> PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
> Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
> into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
> the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
> to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
> exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
> store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
> didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
> that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
> had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
> minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
> this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
> (see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
> close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.
>
Then think outside the bigbox. We have a local real supply house just
one town over. It is owned and operated by a knowledgeable family. They
have a huge selection compared to the big box and I am in and out in
minutes for something like you described.

Page 1 of 3       1 2 3 > last >>
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