Home Page link

Water pressure in house?

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 3 of 3       << first < 1 2 3 Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Water pressure in house? N8N 10-30-2007
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by on October 31, 2007, 3:56 pm

>I did call local water authority and they confirmed that meter is
>buried below a cover in the front yard and that I have no BFP or
>pressure reducer (at least installed by them.) So it sounds like I'll
>just keep an eye on it (possibly mount gauge permanently near one of
>the water heaters so I can see if it ever gets above 80 PSI) and not
>worry about it too much.

Your biggest potential concern would be your washing machines inlet
valve. If this doesn't shut you'll flood the room. High pressures can
make these valves fail when they get older.

Posted by N8N on October 31, 2007, 4:01 pm
On Oct 31, 3:56 pm, t...@mucks.net wrote:
> >I did call local water authority and they confirmed that meter is
> >buried below a cover in the front yard and that I have no BFP or
> >pressure reducer (at least installed by them.) So it sounds like I'll
> >just keep an eye on it (possibly mount gauge permanently near one of
> >the water heaters so I can see if it ever gets above 80 PSI) and not
> >worry about it too much.
>
> Your biggest potential concern would be your washing machines inlet
> valve. If this doesn't shut you'll flood the room. High pressures can
> make these valves fail when they get older.

Both the PO and I are in the habit of turning off the supply spigots
to the washing machine when it is not in use. I was thinking of
adding a single-handle ball valve unit to make it even easier to do
and harder to forget. You do make a good point though.

nate


Posted by Harry K on October 31, 2007, 9:43 pm
> On Oct 31, 3:56 pm, t...@mucks.net wrote:
>
> > >I did call local water authority and they confirmed that meter is
> > >buried below a cover in the front yard and that I have no BFP or
> > >pressure reducer (at least installed by them.) So it sounds like I'll
> > >just keep an eye on it (possibly mount gauge permanently near one of
> > >the water heaters so I can see if it ever gets above 80 PSI) and not
> > >worry about it too much.
>
> > Your biggest potential concern would be your washing machines inlet
> > valve. If this doesn't shut you'll flood the room. High pressures can
> > make these valves fail when they get older.
>
> Both the PO and I are in the habit of turning off the supply spigots
> to the washing machine when it is not in use. I was thinking of
> adding a single-handle ball valve unit to make it even easier to do
> and harder to forget. You do make a good point though.
>
> nate

I haven't priced PRs in spite of havign to install one in my mother's
house. I don't think they are all that expensive and the installation
is not that big a deal.

Harry K


Posted by JoeSpareBedroom on October 31, 2007, 9:47 pm
>> On Oct 31, 3:56 pm, t...@mucks.net wrote:
>>
>> > >I did call local water authority and they confirmed that meter is
>> > >buried below a cover in the front yard and that I have no BFP or
>> > >pressure reducer (at least installed by them.) So it sounds like I'll
>> > >just keep an eye on it (possibly mount gauge permanently near one of
>> > >the water heaters so I can see if it ever gets above 80 PSI) and not
>> > >worry about it too much.
>>
>> > Your biggest potential concern would be your washing machines inlet
>> > valve. If this doesn't shut you'll flood the room. High pressures can
>> > make these valves fail when they get older.
>>
>> Both the PO and I are in the habit of turning off the supply spigots
>> to the washing machine when it is not in use. I was thinking of
>> adding a single-handle ball valve unit to make it even easier to do
>> and harder to forget. You do make a good point though.
>>
>> nate
>
> I haven't priced PRs in spite of havign to install one in my mother's
> house. I don't think they are all that expensive and the installation
> is not that big a deal.
>
> Harry K
>

Per a plumber I recently talked to, $50-$60, plus installation, or the cost
of your favorite 6-pack if you do it yourself.



Posted by z on November 1, 2007, 10:32 am
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > > Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
> > > not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
> > > pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
> > > (there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
> > > pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
> > > momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
> > > basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
> > > connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
> > > cycles and the telltale did not rise.
>
> > > Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
> > > or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
> > > when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
> > > line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
> > > meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
> > > book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
> > > pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
> > > expansion tank as well.
>
> > > Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
> > > looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
> > > could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.
>
> > > thanks,
>
> > > nate
>
> > > PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
> > > Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
> > > into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
> > > the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
> > > to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
> > > exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
> > > store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
> > > didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
> > > that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
> > > had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
> > > minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
> > > this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
> > > (see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
> > > close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.
>
> > The general rule is that 60 psi is the recommnded high point for
> > residences. Above that 'can' cause premature wear on fixtures,
> > particularly appliance valves. That is probably a very consevative
> > view.
> > I doubt that your 70 is going to do so.
>
> > Your meter (if you have one) is probably buried out at the curb line.
> > If so, you will find a cover approximately flush with the ground.
>
> > Harry K
>
> I did call local water authority and they confirmed that meter is
> buried below a cover in the front yard and that I have no BFP or
> pressure reducer (at least installed by them.) So it sounds like I'll
> just keep an eye on it (possibly mount gauge permanently near one of
> the water heaters so I can see if it ever gets above 80 PSI) and not
> worry about it too much.
>
> I do need to rebuild one toilet but other than that I have no problems
> evident that could conceivably be caused by high pressure (reason for
> initial inquiry was old T&P valve was occasionally tripping, but it is
> rated at 150 PSI and apparently pressure never goes above 80, so it
> seems like simply a bad valve - new valve hasn't tripped at all in a
> week and a half, and water heater is set hotter than ever) is one
> toilet that has a bad fill valve that needs to be replaced, other than
> that no issues. I can deal with that...
>
> I suppose one possible factor in the old T&P valve's early demise is
> that apparently the house's plumbing had been left full of water for
> probably the entire duration of the previous owner's residence -
> something like 18 years - and all of the little expansion pipes had
> lost their air. I have noticed a marked decrease in water hammer
> since I drained the system down and refilled it. Possibly related?
>
> nate- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

My house has a pressure regulator, and I notice that the front outside
faucet is plumbed before the regulator, to get the high pressure,
while the back outside faucet is plumbed into the regulated side, and
I have to say the extra presure for the lawn sprinkler is quite an
improvement. In fact, i'm thinking of rerouting some tubing from the
back faucet to the unregulated side.


Page 3 of 3       << first < 1 2 3
Similar ThreadsPosted
Water pressure in house? October 30, 2007, 11:27 am
Low Water Pressure In House June 9, 2008, 7:21 am
What is the optimum water pressure for a house? August 9, 2005, 6:43 pm
water pressure coming in to the house March 18, 2006, 11:51 am
'Lowering' house water pressure May 20, 2007, 10:52 am
water tank pressure is gaining air pressure February 2, 2008, 7:42 pm
House plumbing pressure? August 25, 2007, 2:49 pm
Pressure Vacuum Cleaner for Whole House April 7, 2006, 4:18 pm
pressure testing a house gas line ? April 24, 2008, 8:00 pm
Pressure-treated lumber inside the house January 3, 2006, 2:41 am

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap