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Water pressure in house? N8N 10-30-2007
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Posted by N8N on October 30, 2007, 11:27 am
Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
(there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
cycles and the telltale did not rise.

Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
expansion tank as well.

Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.

thanks,

nate

PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
(see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.


Posted by z on October 31, 2007, 2:19 pm
> Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
> not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
> pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
> (there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
> pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
> momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
> basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
> connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
> cycles and the telltale did not rise.
>
> Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
> or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
> when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
> line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
> meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
> book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
> pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
> expansion tank as well.
>
> Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
> looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
> could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.
>
> thanks,
>
> nate
>
> PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
> Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
> into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
> the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
> to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
> exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
> store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
> didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
> that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
> had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
> minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
> this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
> (see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
> close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.

I was lucky enough to drop mine, whereupon the glass just popped out
so I could twiddle the needles by hand and jam the glass back on.


Posted by greg2468 on October 31, 2007, 3:08 pm
>
> > Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
> > not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
> > pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
> > (there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
> > pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
> > momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
> > basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
> > connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
> > cycles and the telltale did not rise.
>
> > Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
> > or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
> > when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
> > line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
> > meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
> > book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
> > pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
> > expansion tank as well.
>
> > Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
> > looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
> > could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.
>
> > thanks,
>
> > nate
>
> > PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
> > Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
> > into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
> > the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
> > to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
> > exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
> > store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
> > didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
> > that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
> > had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
> > minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
> > this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
> > (see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
> > close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.
>
> I was lucky enough to drop mine, whereupon the glass just popped out
> so I could twiddle the needles by hand and jam the glass back on.

You should have a pressure reducing valve on your main water line
where it enters your house. Usually shaped somewhat like a bell.
Tnere is a screw in top that will increase/decrease the pressure.
Unfortunately I don't remember which direction you need to go. Maybe
someone else remembers. Try only one quarter or one half revolutions
at a time.


Posted by Bob F on October 31, 2007, 3:21 pm

>>
>> > Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
>> > not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
>> > pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
>> > (there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
>> > pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
>> > momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
>> > basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
>> > connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
>> > cycles and the telltale did not rise.
>>
>> > Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
>> > or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
>> > when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
>> > line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
>> > meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
>> > book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
>> > pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
>> > expansion tank as well.
>>
>> > Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
>> > looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
>> > could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.
>>
>> > thanks,
>>
>> > nate
>>
>> > PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
>> > Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
>> > into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
>> > the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
>> > to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
>> > exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
>> > store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
>> > didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
>> > that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
>> > had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
>> > minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
>> > this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
>> > (see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
>> > close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.
>>
>> I was lucky enough to drop mine, whereupon the glass just popped out
>> so I could twiddle the needles by hand and jam the glass back on.
>
> You should have a pressure reducing valve on your main water line
> where it enters your house. Usually shaped somewhat like a bell.
> Tnere is a screw in top that will increase/decrease the pressure.
> Unfortunately I don't remember which direction you need to go. Maybe
> someone else remembers. Try only one quarter or one half revolutions
> at a time.
>

Why should they have a pressure reducing valve?

Bob



Posted by JoeSpareBedroom on October 31, 2007, 3:23 pm
>
>>>
>>> > Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
>>> > not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
>>> > pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
>>> > (there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
>>> > pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
>>> > momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
>>> > basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
>>> > connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
>>> > cycles and the telltale did not rise.
>>>
>>> > Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
>>> > or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
>>> > when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
>>> > line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
>>> > meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
>>> > book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
>>> > pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
>>> > expansion tank as well.
>>>
>>> > Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
>>> > looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
>>> > could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.
>>>
>>> > thanks,
>>>
>>> > nate
>>>
>>> > PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
>>> > Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
>>> > into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
>>> > the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
>>> > to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
>>> > exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
>>> > store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
>>> > didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
>>> > that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
>>> > had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
>>> > minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
>>> > this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
>>> > (see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
>>> > close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.
>>>
>>> I was lucky enough to drop mine, whereupon the glass just popped out
>>> so I could twiddle the needles by hand and jam the glass back on.
>>
>> You should have a pressure reducing valve on your main water line
>> where it enters your house. Usually shaped somewhat like a bell.
>> Tnere is a screw in top that will increase/decrease the pressure.
>> Unfortunately I don't remember which direction you need to go. Maybe
>> someone else remembers. Try only one quarter or one half revolutions
>> at a time.
>>
>
> Why should they have a pressure reducing valve?
>
> Bob

Because in some locales (like right here at my house), the unrestricted
water pressure may spike to 100-125, and even if you don't mind your pipes
slamming, some appliances and devices might have issues with.



Page 1 of 2       1 2 > last >>
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