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Posted by Nate Nagel on November 4, 2007, 6:48 pm
Tony Hwang wrote:
> greg2468 wrote:
>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
>>>> not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
>>>> pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
>>>> (there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
>>>> pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
>>>> momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
>>>> basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
>>>> connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
>>>> cycles and the telltale did not rise.
>>>
>>>
>>>> Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
>>>> or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
>>>> when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
>>>> line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
>>>> meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
>>>> book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
>>>> pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
>>>> expansion tank as well.
>>>
>>>
>>>> Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
>>>> looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
>>>> could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.
>>>
>>>
>>>> thanks,
>>>
>>>
>>>> nate
>>>
>>>
>>>> PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
>>>> Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
>>>> into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
>>>> the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
>>>> to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
>>>> exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
>>>> store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
>>>> didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
>>>> that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
>>>> had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
>>>> minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
>>>> this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
>>>> (see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
>>>> close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.
>>>
>>>
>>> I was lucky enough to drop mine, whereupon the glass just popped out
>>> so I could twiddle the needles by hand and jam the glass back on.
>>
>>
>>
>> You should have a pressure reducing valve on your main water line
>> where it enters your house. Usually shaped somewhat like a bell.
>> Tnere is a screw in top that will increase/decrease the pressure.
>> Unfortunately I don't remember which direction you need to go. Maybe
>> someone else remembers. Try only one quarter or one half revolutions
>> at a time.
>>
> Hi,
> T&P valve works on temperwature and pressure. Pressure is one of two
> factors. Don't keep the temperqture too high for safety and like that
> T&P valve problem. My house has a water pressure gauge and regulator.
> The pressure is set at 60 psi. In my memory at several different houses
> I had custom built, never had T&P valve problem.
I think the original problem was simply a bad T&P valve. I've had a cup
under the overflow pipe (never did properly route it to the sink,
although that's on The List...) and the gauge on the drain valve ever
since I fixed the drain valve (I think that was Tuesday?) and the cup is
bone dry and the telltale is at about 81 PSI. So I guess I don't have
any problems at this time, well, other than the toilet that makes a
horrible noise while it refills which I'm sure is completely unrelated
and I can fix that.
I was told that there is no pressure reducing valve supplied by the city
with the meter, and I sure can't find one inside the house anywhere.
nate
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