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Subject Author Date
Waterproofing fence posts Matthew Reed 07-11-2006
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Posted by Bob on July 17, 2006, 5:38 pm

> According to Matthew Reed <nospam at zootal dot com nospam>:
> >
> > >
> > > It has always seemed to me that those metal post holders that you set in
> > > concrete would be a better bet. The end of the post will be able to breath
> > > some, so it should last way longer. Plus, replacement would be way easier.
> > >
> > > Bob
> >
> > I'm not sure I've seen these before, but I think I know what you are talking
> > apart. Do they hold the post securely enough to take the load of wood,
> > gates, etc. ?
>
> No. They need side support if they're of any height or significant
> side load. Same for "post spikes". Not suitable for fences or
> freestanding decks (unless very short).
>
> The trick with concreted fence posts is to bed the bottom end
> of the post in several inches of gravel before pouring concrete.
> Any moisture entering the post can leave out the bottom, and the
> bottom isn't held in direct contact with moisture. PT posts
> will last a very long time when done properly.

Depending of course on the water table. They'd be in the
water all winter where I am.

Bob



Posted by Matthew Reed on July 23, 2006, 2:42 pm
>> The trick with concreted fence posts is to bed the bottom end
>> of the post in several inches of gravel before pouring concrete.
>> Any moisture entering the post can leave out the bottom, and the
>> bottom isn't held in direct contact with moisture. PT posts
>> will last a very long time when done properly.
>
> Depending of course on the water table. They'd be in the
> water all winter where I am.
>
> Bob
>
>

It rains all fall, winter, and spring, but the water table stays down 6-8
feet or so. I think I'd be safe with a 30 inch hole with 6 inches of gravel
at the bottom. Maybe less gravel.



Posted by on July 24, 2006, 12:13 pm
With all the success everyone has had, I hear that your using PT posts.
Did you also add water repellent to those post? I live in Seattle and
get lots of rain. I am installing the PT posts as reccomended (gravel
at the bottom and in concrete) but am conteplating the time/cost/effort
of applying the water repellent to them first.

Thanks!
Tim

Matthew Reed wrote:
> >> The trick with concreted fence posts is to bed the bottom end
> >> of the post in several inches of gravel before pouring concrete.
> >> Any moisture entering the post can leave out the bottom, and the
> >> bottom isn't held in direct contact with moisture. PT posts
> >> will last a very long time when done properly.
> >
> > Depending of course on the water table. They'd be in the
> > water all winter where I am.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
>
> It rains all fall, winter, and spring, but the water table stays down 6-8
> feet or so. I think I'd be safe with a 30 inch hole with 6 inches of gravel
> at the bottom. Maybe less gravel.


Posted by Matthew Reed on July 30, 2006, 10:30 pm
I'm not that far south from you, maybe 90 minutes south of Portland. Do you
have any more info on water repellent treatment? I'm using PT posts rated
for ground contact (very important - they can't be just PT, they have to be
rated for ground contact). I don't want to have to dig up 3 tons of concrete
10 years from now when the posts rot out.

> With all the success everyone has had, I hear that your using PT posts.
> Did you also add water repellent to those post? I live in Seattle and
> get lots of rain. I am installing the PT posts as reccomended (gravel
> at the bottom and in concrete) but am conteplating the time/cost/effort
> of applying the water repellent to them first.
>
> Thanks!
> Tim



Posted by on July 24, 2006, 1:25 pm
With all the success everyone has had, I hear that your using PT posts.
Did you also add water repellent to those post? I live in Seattle and
get lots of rain. I am installing the PT posts as reccomended (gravel
at the bottom and in concrete) but am conteplating the time/cost/effort
of applying the water repellent to them first.

Thanks!
Tim

Matthew Reed wrote:
> >> The trick with concreted fence posts is to bed the bottom end
> >> of the post in several inches of gravel before pouring concrete.
> >> Any moisture entering the post can leave out the bottom, and the
> >> bottom isn't held in direct contact with moisture. PT posts
> >> will last a very long time when done properly.
> >
> > Depending of course on the water table. They'd be in the
> > water all winter where I am.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
>
> It rains all fall, winter, and spring, but the water table stays down 6-8
> feet or so. I think I'd be safe with a 30 inch hole with 6 inches of gravel
> at the bottom. Maybe less gravel.


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