Web Enabled Time/Temp/Humidity and I/O Controller

Posted by Robert Green on November 3, 2009, 7:55 am

news:8577550c-ac5e-

<<I ordered one to do remote power-up / boot-up of other computers in
the home. Computers that I occasionally need to get to over the
Internet (to copy files from work etc) but dont want to leave running

all day (for network and power reasons).>>

Since the company that makes these is a server farm "balancer" I suspect
that you're doing just what they designed this to do for themselves:
monitoring and controlling computers. Given how much power today's superhot
CPU's can draw, I think the question of "leave them running" or "shut them
off" has finally been settled in favor of shutting them off, if only for
power saving reasons. It's kind of funny that 20 years ago the
conservation side of that ON/OFF debate was hardly a factor. Certainly not
the emissions part of things.

<<Still unsure about how to do this, will probably have to wire a relay
to the actual on/off switch on the computer and have this little guy
trigger a remote boot by paralleling said relay across the existing
power button. Once the remoter computer is powered and booted, I can
use Windows remote desktop services to do a normal shutown when I'm

done.>>

I'd try to figure out how to use wake on LAN or Modem Ring. Even the old
2001 PC's I've got have that capability. When I used to use a similar
wakeup method (anyone remember remote modem programs like "Reachout" and
"PCAnywhere"?) I used an X-10 phone responder and an appliance module to
start and stop the computer and set the BIOS to reboot on power blips. Cost
under $50 IIRC. I hooked up the PC to the module, plugged the responder in
and when I dialed my home phone, after 10 rings, it would pick up, beep
three times and then I entered a secure code and then I could touch tone 1*
to turn on the PC and 1# to turn it off and so on for up to 16 different
devices.

In your scenario you'd replace the X-10 module with a relay - I'd probably
wire up a 2 gang plastic box with a line cord, a relay on one side (with a
fuse on the relay line that would blow if 110VAC ever got cross-connected)
and an outlet on the other. I'll bet there are code-compliant components
for this, so I leave it to other to chastize me for running LV and line
voltage into the same box.

<<I dont mind leaving this little guy "online" all the time but dont want to

leave my large home computers online all the time.>>

I can't blame you, but in your case, I'd probably still use X-10 and a phone
responder if I still had a phone line simply because I'm still not sure how
secure this is all going to be over the internet. The house sending out
warnings and information to me or the entire world isn't so bad, it's the
whole world activating my PC's remotely that I would worry about. Maybe
I'll feel differently after seeing it an action.

So far, I've been busy ordering parts for it, like the Honeywell Humidistat,
the One-wire temp sensors and a solar panel + rechargeable battery to run it
on. I want my unit to run completely free-standing in a worst case
scenario. I figure in about two years, when they discover this recession
was a tremor preceding the "big one" the house may need to fend for itself
off the grid. It's probably time to start a covert ops defense program and
put a SCIF

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sensitive_Compartmented_Information_Facility

in the basement where I can build my own version of the this:

http://www.wired.com/dangerroom/2008/12/israeli-auto-ki/

The "pan, tilt, zoom and boom" ultimate security system. (-: Twenty years
ago it was a deleted scene in the movie "Aliens" and now it's a reality.

--
Bobby G.

Posted by George on November 3, 2009, 9:30 am

Robert Green wrote:

> news:8577550c-ac5e-
>
>
> < the home. Computers that I occasionally need to get to over the
> Internet (to copy files from work etc) but dont want to leave running
>
> Since the company that makes these is a server farm "balancer" I suspect
> that you're doing just what they designed this to do for themselves:
> monitoring and controlling computers. Given how much power today's superhot
> CPU's can draw, I think the question of "leave them running" or "shut them
> off" has finally been settled in favor of shutting them off, if only for
> power saving reasons. It's kind of funny that 20 years ago the
> conservation side of that ON/OFF debate was hardly a factor. Certainly not
> the emissions part of things.
>
> <<Still unsure about how to do this, will probably have to wire a relay
> to the actual on/off switch on the computer and have this little guy
> trigger a remote boot by paralleling said relay across the existing
> power button. Once the remoter computer is powered and booted, I can
> use Windows remote desktop services to do a normal shutown when I'm
>

I think that is the long way around the block.. WOL is perfect for this.

> I'd try to figure out how to use wake on LAN or Modem Ring. Even the old
> 2001 PC's I've got have that capability. When I used to use a similar
> wakeup method (anyone remember remote modem programs like "Reachout" and
> "PCAnywhere"?) I used an X-10 phone responder and an appliance module to
> start and stop the computer and set the BIOS to reboot on power blips. Cost
> under $50 IIRC. I hooked up the PC to the module, plugged the responder in
> and when I dialed my home phone, after 10 rings, it would pick up, beep
> three times and then I entered a secure code and then I could touch tone 1*
> to turn on the PC and 1# to turn it off and so on for up to 16 different
> devices.
>
> In your scenario you'd replace the X-10 module with a relay - I'd probably
> wire up a 2 gang plastic box with a line cord, a relay on one side (with a
> fuse on the relay line that would blow if 110VAC ever got cross-connected)
> and an outlet on the other. I'll bet there are code-compliant components
> for this, so I leave it to other to chastize me for running LV and line
> voltage into the same box.
>
> <
> I can't blame you, but in your case, I'd probably still use X-10 and a phone
> responder if I still had a phone line simply because I'm still not sure how
> secure this is all going to be over the internet. The house sending out
> warnings and information to me or the entire world isn't so bad, it's the
> whole world activating my PC's remotely that I would worry about. Maybe
> I'll feel differently after seeing it an action.
>
> So far, I've been busy ordering parts for it, like the Honeywell Humidistat,
> the One-wire temp sensors and a solar panel + rechargeable battery to run it
> on. I want my unit to run completely free-standing in a worst case
> scenario. I figure in about two years, when they discover this recession
> was a tremor preceding the "big one" the house may need to fend for itself
> off the grid. It's probably time to start a covert ops defense program and
> put a SCIF
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sensitive_Compartmented_Information_Facility
>
> in the basement where I can build my own version of the this:
>
> http://www.wired.com/dangerroom/2008/12/israeli-auto-ki/
>
> The "pan, tilt, zoom and boom" ultimate security system. (-: Twenty years
> ago it was a deleted scene in the movie "Aliens" and now it's a reality.
>
> --
> Bobby G.
>
>

Posted by RickH on November 3, 2009, 9:56 am

> Robert Green wrote:

> > news:8577550c-ac5e-
> > < > the home. =A0Computers that I occasionally need to get to over the
> > Internet (to copy files from work etc) but dont want to leave running
> > Since the company that makes these is a server farm "balancer" I suspec=

> > that you're doing just what they designed this to do for themselves:
> > monitoring and controlling computers. =A0Given how much power today's s=

uperhot

> > CPU's can draw, I think the question of "leave them running" or "shut t=

hem

> > off" has finally been settled in favor of =A0shutting them off, if only=

for

> > power saving reasons. =A0 It's kind of funny that 20 years ago the
> > conservation side of that ON/OFF debate was hardly a factor. =A0Certain=

ly not

> > the emissions part of things.
> > <<Still unsure about how to do this, will probably have to wire a relay
> > to the actual on/off switch on the computer and have this little guy
> > trigger a remote boot by paralleling said relay across the existing
> > power button. =A0Once the remoter computer is powered and booted, I can
> > use Windows remote desktop services to do a normal shutown when I'm

> I think that is the long way around the block.. WOL is perfect for this.

> > I'd try to figure out how to use wake on LAN or Modem Ring. =A0Even the=

old

> > 2001 PC's I've got have that capability. =A0When I used to use a simila=

> > wakeup method (anyone remember remote modem programs like "Reachout" an=

> > "PCAnywhere"?) I used an X-10 phone responder and an appliance module t=

> > start and stop the computer and set the BIOS to reboot on power blips. =

=A0Cost

> > under $50 IIRC. =A0I hooked up the PC to the module, plugged the respon=

der in

> > and when I dialed my home phone, after 10 rings, it would pick up, beep
> > three times and then I entered a secure code and then I could touch ton=

e 1*

> > to turn on the PC and 1# to turn it off and so on for up to 16 differen=

> > devices.
> > In your scenario you'd replace the X-10 module with a relay - I'd proba=

bly

> > wire up a 2 gang plastic box with a line cord, a relay on one side (wit=

h a

> > fuse on the relay line that would blow if 110VAC ever got cross-connect=

ed)

> > and an outlet on the other. =A0I'll bet there are code-compliant compon=

ents

> > for this, so I leave it to other to chastize me for running LV and line
> > voltage into the same box.
> > <<I dont mind leaving this little guy "online" all the time but dont wa=

nt to

> > I can't blame you, but in your case, I'd probably still use X-10 and a =

phone

> > responder if I still had a phone line simply because I'm still not sure=

how

> > secure this is all going to be over the internet. =A0The house sending =

out

> > warnings and information to me or the entire world isn't so bad, it's t=

> > whole world activating my PC's remotely that I would worry about. =A0Ma=

ybe

> > I'll feel differently after seeing it an action.
> > So far, I've been busy ordering parts for it, like the Honeywell Humidi=

stat,

> > the One-wire temp sensors and a solar panel + rechargeable battery to r=

un it

> > on. =A0I want my unit to run completely free-standing in a worst case
> > scenario. =A0I figure in about two years, when they discover this reces=

sion

> > was a tremor preceding the "big one" the house may need to fend for its=

elf

> > off the grid. =A0It's probably time to start a covert ops defense progr=

am and

> > put a SCIF
> >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sensitive_Compartmented_Information_Faci...
> > in the basement where I can build my own version of the this:
> >http://www.wired.com/dangerroom/2008/12/israeli-auto-ki/
> > The "pan, tilt, zoom and boom" ultimate security system. =A0(-: =A0Twen=

ty years

> > ago it was a deleted scene in the movie "Aliens" and now it's a reality=

> > --
> > Bobby G.- Hide quoted text -

> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

The problem is WOL still requires you to have at least one computer
already powered up, then that computer can receive the WOL command to
power up the other computer(s) provided the motherboards have WOL
jacks. I wanted a single computer dead until I power it up.

Posted by George on November 3, 2009, 12:51 pm

RickH wrote:

>> Robert Green wrote:

>>> news:8577550c-ac5e-
>>> <>> the home. Computers that I occasionally need to get to over the
>>> Internet (to copy files from work etc) but dont want to leave running
>>> Since the company that makes these is a server farm "balancer" I suspect
>>> that you're doing just what they designed this to do for themselves:
>>> monitoring and controlling computers. Given how much power today's superhot
>>> CPU's can draw, I think the question of "leave them running" or "shut them
>>> off" has finally been settled in favor of shutting them off, if only for
>>> power saving reasons. It's kind of funny that 20 years ago the
>>> conservation side of that ON/OFF debate was hardly a factor. Certainly not
>>> the emissions part of things.
>>> <<Still unsure about how to do this, will probably have to wire a relay
>>> to the actual on/off switch on the computer and have this little guy
>>> trigger a remote boot by paralleling said relay across the existing
>>> power button. Once the remoter computer is powered and booted, I can
>>> use Windows remote desktop services to do a normal shutown when I'm

>> I think that is the long way around the block.. WOL is perfect for this.

>>> I'd try to figure out how to use wake on LAN or Modem Ring. Even the old
>>> 2001 PC's I've got have that capability. When I used to use a similar
>>> wakeup method (anyone remember remote modem programs like "Reachout" and
>>> "PCAnywhere"?) I used an X-10 phone responder and an appliance module to
>>> start and stop the computer and set the BIOS to reboot on power blips. Cost
>>> under $50 IIRC. I hooked up the PC to the module, plugged the responder in
>>> and when I dialed my home phone, after 10 rings, it would pick up, beep
>>> three times and then I entered a secure code and then I could touch tone 1*
>>> to turn on the PC and 1# to turn it off and so on for up to 16 different
>>> devices.
>>> In your scenario you'd replace the X-10 module with a relay - I'd probably
>>> wire up a 2 gang plastic box with a line cord, a relay on one side (with a
>>> fuse on the relay line that would blow if 110VAC ever got cross-connected)
>>> and an outlet on the other. I'll bet there are code-compliant components
>>> for this, so I leave it to other to chastize me for running LV and line
>>> voltage into the same box.
>>> <>> I can't blame you, but in your case, I'd probably still use X-10 and a phone
>>> responder if I still had a phone line simply because I'm still not sure how
>>> secure this is all going to be over the internet. The house sending out
>>> warnings and information to me or the entire world isn't so bad, it's the
>>> whole world activating my PC's remotely that I would worry about. Maybe
>>> I'll feel differently after seeing it an action.
>>> So far, I've been busy ordering parts for it, like the Honeywell Humidistat,
>>> the One-wire temp sensors and a solar panel + rechargeable battery to run it
>>> on. I want my unit to run completely free-standing in a worst case
>>> scenario. I figure in about two years, when they discover this recession
>>> was a tremor preceding the "big one" the house may need to fend for itself
>>> off the grid. It's probably time to start a covert ops defense program and
>>> put a SCIF
>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sensitive_Compartmented_Information_Faci...
>>> in the basement where I can build my own version of the this:
>>> http://www.wired.com/dangerroom/2008/12/israeli-auto-ki/
>>> The "pan, tilt, zoom and boom" ultimate security system. (-: Twenty years
>>> ago it was a deleted scene in the movie "Aliens" and now it's a reality.
>>> --
>>> Bobby G.- Hide quoted text -

>> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -

>
>
> The problem is WOL still requires you to have at least one computer
> already powered up, then that computer can receive the WOL command to
> power up the other computer(s) provided the motherboards have WOL
> jacks. I wanted a single computer dead until I power it up.
>

But it doesn't have to be much of a computer (such as a router). I can
do it by remotely logging into my router and issuing WOL for any MAC on
the LAN from its web interface.

Posted by Robert L Bass on November 3, 2009, 1:06 pm

"RickH" wrote:

> The problem is WOL still requires you to have at least one computer already
> powered up...

O solved that with my web servers about 10 years ago using a power strip with
an IP connection. Using any browser I could power up, down or reset up to 8
different devices, one at time or all at once, depending on the command. The
IP address was not listed with the DNS and was not part of my main sequence
(to keep nasties away). Once online I a username & password brought up the
menu.

The device was more costly than the unit in consideration but it could
eliminate your problem of needing to leave one machine up and running all the
time. My new Dell servers have built-in IP-controlled power and reside behind
a hardware firewall so the unit is no longer needed.

I gave it to a helpful participant in AHA some years ago. I don't recall but
it *may* have been Marc H. I'm certain these thing are less expensive now
than a dozen years ago when I bought it since they're very simple devices. If
Marc has it, perhaps he can tell you the manufacturer, which I've long since
forgotten.

Meanwhile, there's an outfit called Dataprobe http://dataprobe.com in New
Jersey that makes several similar models. Another place, Bomara, makes a
2-unit IP strip for about $200. http://www.bomara.com/cps/n-ac2.htm.

Hope some of this is useful to you.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

==============================>

Bass Home Electronics
DIY Alarm and Home Automation Store
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
Sales & Service 941-870-2310
Fax 941-870-3252

==============================>

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