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Wheel is loose on angle grinder shaft mm 01-11-2007
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Posted by mm on January 12, 2007, 2:37 pm


wrote:

>wsterling@liverpool.uk wrote:
>>
>> If you ever lock yourself out of your car you'll be glad you had one of these
>> tools. I had this happen and I just took my angle grinder and cut a hole thru
>> the sheet metal on my door until I was able to crawl thru that hole and get my
>> keys out of the ignition. Worked great.
>>
>> William
>>
>
>
>Good thing the window wasn't rolled down; it would have /really/ been in
>the way inside the door.

Good point. And you'd need a different wheel to get a hole through
the glass without shattering the whole thing.
>
>
>Best regards,
>Bob <-- still needs to cut a hole in the hood of wrecked-but-drivable
> car to release the latch


Posted by DerbyDad03 on January 12, 2007, 7:11 pm


Wait a minute here - If the window was rolled down wouldn't you just
open the door, roll the window up, and *then* cut the hole in the sheet
metal?


mm wrote:
> wrote:
>
> >wsterling@liverpool.uk wrote:
> >>
> >> If you ever lock yourself out of your car you'll be glad you had one of
these
> >> tools. I had this happen and I just took my angle grinder and cut a hole
thru
> >> the sheet metal on my door until I was able to crawl thru that hole and get
my
> >> keys out of the ignition. Worked great.
> >>
> >> William
> >>
> >
> >
> >Good thing the window wasn't rolled down; it would have /really/ been in
> >the way inside the door.
>
> Good point. And you'd need a different wheel to get a hole through
> the glass without shattering the whole thing.
> >
> >
> >Best regards,
> >Bob <-- still needs to cut a hole in the hood of wrecked-but-drivable
> > car to release the latch


Posted by mm on January 13, 2007, 12:11 am


wrote:

>Wait a minute here - If the window was rolled down wouldn't you just
>open the door, roll the window up, and *then* cut the hole in the sheet
>metal?

If you're going to do that, it's better to cut from the inside.
>
>
>mm wrote:
>> wrote:
>>
>> >wsterling@liverpool.uk wrote:
>> >>
>> >> If you ever lock yourself out of your car you'll be glad you had one of
these
>> >> tools. I had this happen and I just took my angle grinder and cut a hole
thru
>> >> the sheet metal on my door until I was able to crawl thru that hole and
get my
>> >> keys out of the ignition. Worked great.
>> >>
>> >> William
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >Good thing the window wasn't rolled down; it would have /really/ been in
>> >the way inside the door.
>>
>> Good point. And you'd need a different wheel to get a hole through
>> the glass without shattering the whole thing.
>> >
>> >
>> >Best regards,
>> >Bob <-- still needs to cut a hole in the hood of wrecked-but-drivable
>> > car to release the latch


Posted by thetiler on January 11, 2007, 11:51 pm


I use grinders all the tile and often have to figure out the spacer
situation. At 10,000 rpm the discs have to be very true and
centered, but you can do this using spacers if you're handy.

BTW, I used to buy larger expensive grinders all the time.
They were heavy and one locked up, going from 10,000 rpm
to 0 rpm in an instant, exploding stuff in my hand, but I was
uninjured.
Since then I've bought the cheapest Harbor Freight grinders.
I keep 3 with various blades, and have only wore out one
grinder after a couple years use of cutting many hundreds
of tiles. Not bad for less than $20 for a tool. I use $60
diamond blades. I've found the quality of the blade/disc
is more important than the tool itself IMO.

I like the fact too that they are small and easy to hold with
one hand while operating the switch, and you can rest them
on their "back", with the blade in the air, rather than with the
blade/disc on the ground. This protects the blade/disc
from chipping if you have to set it down often.

One point though: They are not real powerful. They are
strong enough to do most work, but for grinding work in
a metal shop, or professional continual use, obviously
you need a high amperage quality tool.

As others have mentioned thought in this thread, you
can probably find the right size discs you need without
having to jury-rig it.

thetiler

mm wrote:
> My Harbor Freight abrasive wheels have holes either too big or too
> small for my Harbor Freight 4" angle grinder.
>
> Was I supposed to get wheels with smaller or bigger holes or use an
> additional spacer, or should I try to return the tool to Harbor
> Freight?
>
> I have very little use for one, so I bought the cheapest angle grinder
> I could find, HF, and I bought their house brand set of grinder
> wheels, four kinds on a piece of cardboard for 10 dollars. Months ago,
> but I just got around to putting an abrasive wheel on the grinder.
> Isn't it supposed to fit neatly?
>
> The hole in the wheel is labeled 5/8" and is 5/8" (about 16mm)
>
> The shaft at the place where the wheel rests is only as thick as the
> threaded part but without the threads, at least 3 mm smaller than the
> hole. I can't position the wheel and tighten the nut so that it
> rotates true.
>
> Since one grinds with the edge sometimes, espcially with the wheels
> without the recessed hole, doesn't the wheel have to mount almost
> perfectly?:
>
> Potential partial fix 1: The outer diameter of the threaded parts is
> almost 5/8", maybe a sixteenth or 32nd less. I could put a spacer on
> the shaft so that the wheel would be at the threaded part.
>
> Potential partial fix 2: There is a thick "washer" or spacer with a
> shoulder that would fit bigger holes, 7/8" or maybe just under. Do
> they have wheels with bigger holes?
>
> These potential fixes don't seem right to me.


Posted by Rich256 on January 12, 2007, 10:25 am


thetiler wrote:
> I use grinders all the tile and often have to figure out the spacer
> situation. At 10,000 rpm the discs have to be very true and
> centered, but you can do this using spacers if you're handy.
>
> BTW, I used to buy larger expensive grinders all the time.
> They were heavy and one locked up, going from 10,000 rpm
> to 0 rpm in an instant, exploding stuff in my hand, but I was
> uninjured.
> Since then I've bought the cheapest Harbor Freight grinders.
> I keep 3 with various blades, and have only wore out one
> grinder after a couple years use of cutting many hundreds
> of tiles. Not bad for less than $20 for a tool. I use $60
> diamond blades. I've found the quality of the blade/disc
> is more important than the tool itself IMO.
>
> I like the fact too that they are small and easy to hold with
> one hand while operating the switch, and you can rest them
> on their "back", with the blade in the air, rather than with the
> blade/disc on the ground. This protects the blade/disc
> from chipping if you have to set it down often.
>
> One point though: They are not real powerful. They are
> strong enough to do most work, but for grinding work in
> a metal shop, or professional continual use, obviously
> you need a high amperage quality tool.
>
> As others have mentioned thought in this thread, you
> can probably find the right size discs you need without
> having to jury-rig it.
>
> thetiler
>

I bought one of those cheap Harbor grinders several years ago. Am
amazed at how often I use it. I keep it plugged in all the time and
hanging over the workbench. Use it for things I never thought of such
as cutting off a nail, sharpening my mower blade etc.

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