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Subject Author Date
Where to find replacement asbestos siding Ray K 05-08-2007
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Posted by Goedjn on May 16, 2007, 12:28 pm

>>
>> > @newsfe12.lga:
>>
>> >> I just posted a photo in alt.binaries.test. Subject: Sample asbestos
>> >> shingle. Time 1:28, 5/8/2007. I should have mentioned that all the
>> >> shingles needing replacement are in the bottom course. (Careless
>> >> lawn maintenance people and landscapers.) They are mainly chipped,
>> >> like you see in the photo at the left bottom corner.
>>
>> > I recommend that you run a piece of 1x4 along the bottom. That's my
>> > standard solution for clients who don't like the cost of replacing
>> > siding. If the wood is properly primed, caulked, and painted, it will
>> > last for years, though not as long as cementitious shingles. When if
>> > fails, it's easy to replace. Use cedar with the smooth side out for
>> > longer life.
>>
>> Here I go following up to my own post.
>>
>> I mentioned this to my dad over the weekend. He has a house with asbestos
>> siding.
>>
>> His solution: Remove the chipped shingle, turn it over, drill new holes,
>> and nail it back on. The chipped edge will be hidden by the course above.
>
>How to get it out w/o breaking it entirely is the trick??? Plus, how
>to renail it unless do so below the line of the course above?

The tools for putting slate on a roof should work just as well
in this application.

Real Goods Solar, Inc.
Posted by dpb on May 16, 2007, 2:31 pm
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >> > @newsfe12.lga:
>
> >> >> I just posted a photo in alt.binaries.test. Subject: Sample asbestos
> >> >> shingle. Time 1:28, 5/8/2007. I should have mentioned that all the
> >> >> shingles needing replacement are in the bottom course. (Careless
> >> >> lawn maintenance people and landscapers.) They are mainly chipped,
> >> >> like you see in the photo at the left bottom corner.
>
> >> > I recommend that you run a piece of 1x4 along the bottom. That's my
> >> > standard solution for clients who don't like the cost of replacing
> >> > siding. If the wood is properly primed, caulked, and painted, it will
> >> > last for years, though not as long as cementitious shingles. When if
> >> > fails, it's easy to replace. Use cedar with the smooth side out for
> >> > longer life.
>
> >> Here I go following up to my own post.
>
> >> I mentioned this to my dad over the weekend. He has a house with asbestos
> >> siding.
>
> >> His solution: Remove the chipped shingle, turn it over, drill new holes,
> >> and nail it back on. The chipped edge will be hidden by the course above.
>
> >How to get it out w/o breaking it entirely is the trick??? Plus, how
> >to renail it unless do so below the line of the course above?
>
> The tools for putting slate on a roof should work just as well
> in this application.

I've never had the fortune to work on a slate roof. I have a pretty
good idea how it is done on new work, but no real clue how one would
manage to repair/replace an existing one??? (Which, I gather would at
least be somewhat similar in that it is an overlapping, hidden
fastener, brittle material which is why the comparison).


Posted by Goedjn on May 17, 2007, 10:33 am

>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >> > @newsfe12.lga:
>>
>> >> >> I just posted a photo in alt.binaries.test. Subject: Sample asbestos
>> >> >> shingle. Time 1:28, 5/8/2007. I should have mentioned that all the
>> >> >> shingles needing replacement are in the bottom course. (Careless
>> >> >> lawn maintenance people and landscapers.) They are mainly chipped,
>> >> >> like you see in the photo at the left bottom corner.
>>
>> >> > I recommend that you run a piece of 1x4 along the bottom. That's my
>> >> > standard solution for clients who don't like the cost of replacing
>> >> > siding. If the wood is properly primed, caulked, and painted, it will
>> >> > last for years, though not as long as cementitious shingles. When if
>> >> > fails, it's easy to replace. Use cedar with the smooth side out for
>> >> > longer life.
>>
>> >> Here I go following up to my own post.
>>
>> >> I mentioned this to my dad over the weekend. He has a house with asbestos
>> >> siding.
>>
>> >> His solution: Remove the chipped shingle, turn it over, drill new holes,
>> >> and nail it back on. The chipped edge will be hidden by the course above.
>>
>> >How to get it out w/o breaking it entirely is the trick??? Plus, how
>> >to renail it unless do so below the line of the course above?
>>
>> The tools for putting slate on a roof should work just as well
>> in this application.
>
>I've never had the fortune to work on a slate roof. I have a pretty
>good idea how it is done on new work, but no real clue how one would
>manage to repair/replace an existing one??? (Which, I gather would at
>least be somewhat similar in that it is an overlapping, hidden
>fastener, brittle material which is why the comparison).

The general technique is that you slide a skinny thing
under the slate to cut the nails holding it in,
and while the slate is out, you insert a hook
between (Or, if necessary, through) the slates that
will be under the new one the hook grabs the lower edge
of the new peice, and the slates/shingles around
it keep it from shifting sideways.

Posted by dpb on May 17, 2007, 5:58 pm
>
>
>
>
>
> >> >> > @newsfe12.lga:
>
> >> >> >> I just posted a photo in alt.binaries.test. Subject: Sample asbestos
> >> >> >> shingle. Time 1:28, 5/8/2007. I should have mentioned that all the
> >> >> >> shingles needing replacement are in the bottom course. (Careless
> >> >> >> lawn maintenance people and landscapers.) They are mainly chipped,
> >> >> >> like you see in the photo at the left bottom corner.
>
> >> >> > I recommend that you run a piece of 1x4 along the bottom. That's my
> >> >> > standard solution for clients who don't like the cost of replacing
> >> >> > siding. If the wood is properly primed, caulked, and painted, it will
> >> >> > last for years, though not as long as cementitious shingles. When if
> >> >> > fails, it's easy to replace. Use cedar with the smooth side out for
> >> >> > longer life.
>
> >> >> Here I go following up to my own post.
>
> >> >> I mentioned this to my dad over the weekend. He has a house with asbestos
> >> >> siding.
>
> >> >> His solution: Remove the chipped shingle, turn it over, drill new holes,
> >> >> and nail it back on. The chipped edge will be hidden by the course above.
>
> >> >How to get it out w/o breaking it entirely is the trick??? Plus, how
> >> >to renail it unless do so below the line of the course above?
>
> >> The tools for putting slate on a roof should work just as well
> >> in this application.
>
> >I've never had the fortune to work on a slate roof. I have a pretty
> >good idea how it is done on new work, but no real clue how one would
> >manage to repair/replace an existing one??? (Which, I gather would at
> >least be somewhat similar in that it is an overlapping, hidden
> >fastener, brittle material which is why the comparison).
>
> The general technique is that you slide a skinny thing
> under the slate to cut the nails holding it in,
> and while the slate is out, you insert a hook
> between (Or, if necessary, through) the slates that
> will be under the new one the hook grabs the lower edge
> of the new peice, and the slates/shingles around
> it keep it from shifting sideways.

OK, step one I can get, thanks... Now --

What magic makes the hook the right length for the bottom of the new
tile to be in line w/ the proper course yet allow the new tile to be
under the course above? (Inquiring minds want to know....) :)



Posted by Goedjn on May 8, 2007, 2:17 pm
wrote:

>dpb wrote:
>>> I need about 22 of them. 32" wide, 14" exposed to weather, thickness
>>> 1/8-3/16" (the vertical groove pattern accounts for the varying
>>> thickness). If I can find a fiber-cement replacement 32" wide, they
>>> would be okay if the pattern matches what I have.
>>
>> Going to be tough, probably -- the asbestos replacements would have to
>> be salvaged from somewhere and matching an old pattern closely is
>> often impossible.
>>
>> Would probably help to post a picture somewhere of what you've got.
>> Depending on where you are, the salvage/restoration kind of folks may
>> be best bet for the old stuff although not sure anybody is trying (or
>> even allowed?) to salvage the asbestos siding...
>
>I just posted a photo in alt.binaries.test. Subject: Sample asbestos
>shingle. Time 1:28, 5/8/2007. I should have mentioned that all the
>shingles needing replacement are in the bottom course. (Careless lawn
>maintenance people and landscapers.) They are mainly chipped, like you
>see in the photo at the left bottom corner.
>

Any reason not to just patch the corners with bondo, then?

Page 3 of 5       < 1 2 3 > last >>
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