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Posted by Boden on July 7, 2008, 12:07 am
Try here for an inexpensive burnisher:
http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=262&ProductID=142576
I use this for the whole job:
http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3741&ProductID=141025
As for oxalic acid, I just had my local hardware store order a case of
24 1 lb containers. Any good hardware or paint store should be able to
do the same thing. I'd urge not using a chlorine bleach. The results
with oxalic acid will be far better. Water is all that is needed after
bleaching with oxalic acid. No neutralization with a base is needed.
bent wrote:
> I need to brighten/ bleach my pine picnic table 2"x12"x8' boards that
> have the blackened water marks, etc. before I finish with Spar. Its
> great to see after its done so. I have liquid pool chlorine, which does
> a great job of whitening, but may have its own drawbacks (maybe not),
> but someone mentioned oxalic acid instead. The problem with pool
> chlorine is that the poly doesn't stick after, but I've only ever done
> it once or so to know whatever I did or didn't do didn't adequately
> rid/neutralize it. Again someone mentioned sanding. I could work
> chlorine in earlier to the overall re&re process this time. I probably
> did nothing or a light water rinse before, &/or maybe a light sand.
> Again any further comments about neutralizing for either the chlorine or
> oxalic acid, or any other product. Oh ya, and where do I get it in
> Toronto? Not LV, CT, HH, or HD!
>
> Has another used or will recommend buying the accessories that you can
> buy from Lee Valley for sharpening a cabinet scraper? I think I can
> sharpen and flatten the scraper alright without extra tools. Just need
> a good flat file after it is normal and true then take a few final level
> swipes. But I have yet to get a piece of (round) metal stock of
> hardness greater than the scraper for putting the crucial finish on it,
> and you just can't find something anywhere around the whole house can
> you. There are two (2) items I think might do the job, a piston wrist
> pin or a valve lifer, form an automobile, but don't know if either is a
> good fit. To get the hook I get the feeling (experimenting with a
> kitchen knife sharpening tool) that a load of exertion is required, and
> then there is the skill level too. I'm no craftsman but for getting rid
> of bondo on a door jamb there is no other tool, and the list goes on.
> But I wish I could get mine working right; barely useable as a paper
> weight when I am done with it currently. So here are the LV products.
> Are they good investments? About $37 for a sharpener! Or should I get
> to the auto rebuilders with a fiver?
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32633&cat=1,310,41070
> Veritas® Variable Burnisher
> 05K37.01 Not the round one (to make a hook cuz I've made better with a
> blow torch and stair railing)
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32631&cat=1,43072,43089
> Veritas® Jointer/Edger
> 05M07.01 I am pretty sure I don't need this (for flattening/truing)
>
>
> BTW Is the simple act of posting here in NGs lately causing my junk
> mail quantity to increase? You can e-mail me an answer if you wish!?
>
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