Wire inground pool pump "Low" or "High"? - Page 3

> ok now that its been running 1 hr incorrect and 24 hours presumably
> correct let me explain the problem. After 1 hr of being connected
> incorrectly it shut itself off so I had to study the label more carefully.
> I then decided what was wrong it was factory wired for 230V. I now assume
> "Low Voltage" means 110V and "High Voltage" means 220V. Originally I
> never thought I'd have to re-wire the wires internally to the pump,
> whatever else happened. I assumed the label schematic notations were all
> for the same wires - my house wires. I though "Brown" was a type of
> power, not a wire color. There are 4 posts inside (aligned Vertically top
> to bottom labelled B L1 L2 A) the weatherproof cover and 2 wires with
> clips that slide off those posts to the motor internally which are White
> and Brown in colour. Then there is the ground screw which is clearly
> marked. I supply the wires to the house (white black green).
> So now I know that after I reconnected the Brown and White wires from the
> motor internally to the Low Voltage posts (they were on the High Voltage
> posts). Origianlly I though White and Brown and L1 and L2 were all labels
> for my house wires, and because the schematic for the Low or the High
> setting had White and Brown physically above and one was below /vice versa
> I thought my only option was to put my house white and black wires either
> one way or the other, on the other available 2 (of 4 total binding posts).
> But for the Low setting there is a common post. For thiose who understand
> motors I tried both my house white and black as either L1 or L2 and it
> woked either way (with high pressure flow). Considering the label
> "non-reversible. I have two options for white and black L1 and L2.
> Because for the Low setting (only) there is a shared post (a wire from
> both the motor and house to the same binding post - the motor one is white
> in colour and that leaves either white or black from the house, so which
> one? How about the white one (not the alternate black one =- though that
> works with equal pump pressure too) - this leaves L1 as black (hot). This
> is how it is now and been running for a day.
> My only other option is black from house to white from motor, not as
> logical is it? I have got it right now don't I!? Before I was supplying
> 110V to the middle 2 of the 4 posts, but factory wired for High V with the
> Brown motor wire on bottom as schematic (and white house to L2 as per Low
> in schematic). Why was it running slow and why did it trip the GFCI? the
> pump is "Thermally protected" too.
> Originally I never saw the Brwon and White pump wires, nor could I figure
> why they labelled all house wiring only as "L1" and "L2".
> This is the schematic:
> Low V High V
> Brown O B White
> O L1
> White O L2
> O A Brown
> So now I have pump wiring as on left and my black house as L1, and my
> white house as shared white (white house to white pump). Good?
> It works the other way too! Why? Same as reversing the white and black
> plug on an extention cord? Is either way just as good (in this wiring
> hardware question)
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> While we are on the topic. I understand that 110V in a fuse box is all
> there is available to connect to. Its a rail. If you want 220V you have
> to use 2x 110V. Can't remember if there are 2 rails, or how it works.
> Probably. Anyways, with a 110V std. wall plug you have the hot (black),
> neutral (I have just learned by poster above) the white is "neutral",
> forgot what it was, but it kinda explains what it does (or not), ground
> is into the earth via rod pounded into earth and plumbing pipes used etc.
> So a 110V needs 3 wires. Since 220V has 2 x 110V does not a 220V ned by
> definition 4 conductors. I know my dryer plug has 4 conductors because
> its got a 4-prong plug. If I needed to be sure if my wire out from house
> was a 110V couldn't I at the very most check it by counting the number of
> wires through to and in the sleeve and boxes the cable was connected to
> (magnifying glass etc.) Or might a 220V only have 3 wires as here?
> My problem here was obviously I was (could) not read the schematic, until
> it died after 1 hr itself, at which point I knew something in my (lack of)
> thnking wasn't right.
> oh, btw, between the pump and the wires out of the ground from the house
> each year we disconnect not the pump but a weatherproof swirch box and
> bring it inside, wrapping the wiring from the elements and leaving the
> pump itself wired up to the box inside. What if I did ground to ground
> (screwed onto steel box), black to black (marette), and white to one side
> of 2-screw switch, and the other white to the other screw of that 2-screw
> switch. I think someone here said to switch black, not white as I did. I
> will do black next year. Is it bad to wait a few months. What could
> happen e.g GFCI and all?
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