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Posted by RicodJour on October 9, 2009, 11:24 am
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> You could install a surface wiremold box. Cut out the attachment tabs at
> top and bottom (or sides) and run one wiremold straight through the box.
> Terminate the other wiremold at the box normally and run the wires
> through. You can't have the wires for both loose in the box. I would
> strongly prefer to run the power straight through, but it would be more
> work.
An interesting solution, I don't know if it would conform to the
intention of the code, but it seems like a safe enough solution.
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Posted by bud-- on October 9, 2009, 12:05 pm
RicodJour wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>> You could install a surface wiremold box. Cut out the attachment tabs at
>> top and bottom (or sides) and run one wiremold straight through the box.
>> Terminate the other wiremold at the box normally and run the wires
>> through. You can't have the wires for both loose in the box. I would
>> strongly prefer to run the power straight through, but it would be more
>> work.
>
> An interesting solution, I don't know if it would conform to the
> intention of the code, but it seems like a safe enough solution.
>
> R
I believe it conforms to the letter and intent of the NEC.
--
bud--
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Posted by Percival P. Cassidy on October 9, 2009, 1:22 pm
bud-- wrote:
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>> In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall
>> for 120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing
>> run of Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.
>> Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top
>> of the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the
>> whole of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall
>> and let the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against
>> the wall? Or...?
> You could install a surface wiremold box. Cut out the attachment tabs at
> top and bottom (or sides) and run one wiremold straight through the box.
> Terminate the other wiremold at the box normally and run the wires
> through. You can't have the wires for both loose in the box. I would
> strongly prefer to run the power straight through, but it would be more
> work.
I thought of that (but did wonder about the Code compliance), but in
fact I think I'll just run Romex through the wall (between the studs)
for that section of the installation, come out through the sheetrock
into the back of a surface-mount Wiremold box, then continue with
individual conductors in Wiremold raceway from that point on.
show/hide quoted text
> There are "bushings" that are required at cut ends of wiremold. You
> probably already know about them.
Yes.
Perce
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Posted by Phisherman on October 9, 2009, 4:08 pm
On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 18:20:22 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
show/hide quoted text
>In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall for
>120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing run of
>Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.
>Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top of
>the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the
>whole of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall
>and let the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against the
>wall? Or...?
>Perce
Put a surface mount electrical outlet box where they cross.
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Posted by RicodJour on October 9, 2009, 4:45 pm
show/hide quoted text
> >In order to install Wiremold metal raceway on the inside garage wall for
> >120v wiring for the exterior lights I need to cross an existing run of
> >Wiremold that carries the 24v wiring for the sprinkler system.
> >Would it be kosher to have the new Wiremold simply cross over the top of
> >the existing Wiremold and thus not be flat against the wall for the
> >whole of its length? Or lift the existing Wiremold away from the wall
> >and let the new Wiremold pass under it and thus remain flat against the
> >wall? Or...?
> Put a surface mount electrical outlet box where they cross.
You can't have line and low voltage wires in the same box. That's why
I was wondering about Bud's solution of running one conduit straight
through the box. I don't know if that conforms to code or not. I
don't see a problem with it, but I don't know.
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> top and bottom (or sides) and run one wiremold straight through the box.
> Terminate the other wiremold at the box normally and run the wires
> through. You can't have the wires for both loose in the box. I would
> strongly prefer to run the power straight through, but it would be more
> work.