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a different? water heater problem? mm 04-02-2007
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Posted by mm on April 2, 2007, 2:22 pm


Water heater failed. The last time I replaced it myself, but I had a
tremendous problem getting the old one out of the basement.

I know I should call them first, but I have to disconnect the computer
to call them. So, if you don't mind....

A) Do stores only remove the old one if they actually install the new
one, or would it be enough if I had totally disconnected the old one
before they got here?

B) Do delivery men have some special clever way to get the old heavy
one out? Or is it just that there are two of them, or that they are
strong? (It was easy for me to take the wh from the store and down
into the basement. The only problem I had last time was getting it up
the stairs, which also turn 180 degrees at a landing. With just me
and someone a lot smaller than I am.)


Today I found the water spraying out** from behind the plastic
escutcheon around the drain valve on my Sears electric water heater.

**in many, but not all directions. Maybe 180 degrees of the circle
had water spraying from it.

Out of curiosity, do you think this is this an unusual problem, or
just a variation on the usual leaking wh?


BTW, the plastic pan I put under the heater helped a lot. But because
it was spraying and not dribbling or coming out of the T&P valve and
down the tube, it certainly didn't catch everything. Last time my wh
dribbled when it leaked.


Posted by Speedy Jim on April 2, 2007, 2:51 pm


mm wrote:

> Water heater failed. The last time I replaced it myself, but I had a
> tremendous problem getting the old one out of the basement.
>
> I know I should call them first, but I have to disconnect the computer
> to call them. So, if you don't mind....
>
> A) Do stores only remove the old one if they actually install the new
> one, or would it be enough if I had totally disconnected the old one
> before they got here?
>
> B) Do delivery men have some special clever way to get the old heavy
> one out? Or is it just that there are two of them, or that they are
> strong? (It was easy for me to take the wh from the store and down
> into the basement. The only problem I had last time was getting it up
> the stairs, which also turn 180 degrees at a landing. With just me
> and someone a lot smaller than I am.)
>
>
> Today I found the water spraying out** from behind the plastic
> escutcheon around the drain valve on my Sears electric water heater.
>
> **in many, but not all directions. Maybe 180 degrees of the circle
> had water spraying from it.
>
> Out of curiosity, do you think this is this an unusual problem, or
> just a variation on the usual leaking wh?
>
>
> BTW, the plastic pan I put under the heater helped a lot. But because
> it was spraying and not dribbling or coming out of the T&P valve and
> down the tube, it certainly didn't catch everything. Last time my wh
> dribbled when it leaked.
>

You have to negotiate with the installer (whoever)
over taking out the old tank. And whether they dump it
at your curb or actually take it away.

In some cities, a heater on the curb will trigger an
inspection. (!)

A 2-wheel dolly/handtruck makes carrying loads up
the stairs easier.

-------
Back to the spraying.
If the valve itself is plastic body, the body may have
fractured. This was very common some years back.
In that event, there is nothing wrong with the tank.

To replace the valve may involve sawing *lengthwise*
thru the valve and then chopping out or (maybe)
unscrewing it.

Jim

Posted by Grandpa on April 2, 2007, 4:42 pm


Speedy Jim wrote:
> mm wrote:
>
>> Water heater failed. The last time I replaced it myself, but I had a
>> tremendous problem getting the old one out of the basement.
>>[...]
>> Today I found the water spraying out** from behind the plastic
>> escutcheon around the drain valve on my Sears electric water heater.
>>
>> **in many, but not all directions. Maybe 180 degrees of the circle
>> had water spraying from it.
>>
>> Out of curiosity, do you think this is this an unusual problem, or
>> just a variation on the usual leaking wh?
>>
>>
>> BTW, the plastic pan I put under the heater helped a lot. But because
>> it was spraying and not dribbling or coming out of the T&P valve and
>> down the tube, it certainly didn't catch everything. Last time my wh
>> dribbled when it leaked.
>>
>
> You have to negotiate with the installer (whoever)
> over taking out the old tank. And whether they dump it
> at your curb or actually take it away.
>
> In some cities, a heater on the curb will trigger an
> inspection. (!)
>
> A 2-wheel dolly/handtruck makes carrying loads up
> the stairs easier.
>
> -------
> Back to the spraying.
> If the valve itself is plastic body, the body may have
> fractured. This was very common some years back.
> In that event, there is nothing wrong with the tank.
>
> To replace the valve may involve sawing *lengthwise*
> thru the valve and then chopping out or (maybe)
> unscrewing it.
>
> Jim

Jim's right, it will depend upon your area. But I second his idea of
checking the drain valve for a cracked body. Replacing the drain
valve will be a lot cheaper and easier than replacing the whole
tank. It should take less than an hour to be sure before you commit
to a new tank. Just turn off the water to the tank, and drain it
out. Then see if you can unscrew the valve body off and inspect it.
Replace it with a nipple, ball valve, hose bib combination if it
appears to be the culprit.
--
Grandpa

Posted by mm on April 2, 2007, 5:36 pm



>
>> A 2-wheel dolly/handtruck makes carrying loads up
>> the stairs easier.

Duh. (Slaps foreheat) Better answer about this to folow later.
>>
>> -------
>> Back to the spraying.
>> If the valve itself is plastic body, the body may have
>> fractured. This was very common some years back.
>> In that event, there is nothing wrong with the tank.
>>
>> To replace the valve may involve sawing *lengthwise*
>> thru the valve and then chopping out or (maybe)
>> unscrewing it.
>>
>> Jim
>
>Jim's right, it will depend upon your area. But I second his idea of
>checking the drain valve for a cracked body. Replacing the drain
>valve will be a lot cheaper and easier than replacing the whole
>tank. It should take less than an hour to be sure before you commit

Oh, gosh yes, it sounds much easier. If it works, I'll be very
grateful to both of you.

I've got the cold water on again, and I'll be taking sponge baths from
the stove or microwave, or going to someone else's to clean up for a
few days, but I'll get back with a followup.

>to a new tank. Just turn off the water to the tank, and drain it
>out. Then see if you can unscrew the valve body off and inspect it.
>Replace it with a nipple, ball valve, hose bib combination if it
>appears to be the culprit.
>--
>Grandpa


Posted by hallerb@aol.com on April 2, 2007, 5:49 pm


>
> >> =A0 A 2-wheel dolly/handtruck makes carrying loads up
> >> the stairs easier.
>
> Duh. =A0(Slaps foreheat) =A0 Better answer about this to folow later.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >> -------
> >> Back to the spraying.
> >> If the valve itself is plastic body, the body may have
> >> fractured. =A0This was very common some years back.
> >> In that event, there is nothing wrong with the tank.
>
> >> To replace the valve may involve sawing *lengthwise*
> >> thru the valve and then chopping out or (maybe)
> >> unscrewing it.
>
> >> Jim
>
> >Jim's right, it will depend upon your area. But I second his idea of
> >checking the drain valve for a cracked body. Replacing the drain
> >valve will be a lot cheaper and easier than replacing the whole
> >tank. It should take less than an hour to be sure before you commit
>
> Oh, gosh yes, it sounds much easier. =A0If it works, I'll be very
> grateful to both of you.
>
> I've got the cold water on again, and I'll be taking sponge baths from
> the stove or microwave, or going to someone else's to clean up for a
> few days, but I'll get back with a followup.
>
>
>
> >to a new tank. Just turn off the water to the tank, and drain it
> >out. Then see if you can unscrew the valve body off and inspect it.
> >Replace it with a nipple, ball valve, hose bib combination if it
> >appears to be the culprit.
> >--
> >Grandpa- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

if the fitting split then replace it,

if its lkeaking at the fittings the tank is failing, just replace it.

in pennsylvania theres a 7% sales tax on cash and carry

have installed no sales tax.

with your situation might be easier to get installed,rovides muscular
guys for removal.


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