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Posted by xparatrooper on October 5, 2009, 2:23 am
so... how in the world can I flash from a roof to t1-11? just fill
the grooves with foam insulation rope and caulk (and then a face
board)? fill the grooves with caulk and run flashing in front? has
anyone done this? I just recently bituthened the joint, running up
the t1-11 about 5 inches. I figured I would screw a board into the
t1-11 and caulk the snot out of it... but that is basically how it was
done previously.. and it would occasionally leak a bit. What's a good
move here? Any input would be appreciated.
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Posted by tom on October 5, 2009, 6:11 pm
> so... how in the world can I flash from a roof to t1-11? just fill
> the grooves with foam insulation rope and caulk (and then a face
> board)? fill the grooves with caulk and run flashing in front? has
> anyone done this? I just recently bituthened the joint, running up
> the t1-11 about 5 inches. I figured I would screw a board into the
> t1-11 and caulk the snot out of it... but that is basically how it was
> done previously.. and it would occasionally leak a bit. What's a good
> move here? Any input would be appreciated.
If this is a roof edge (rake edge) that meets the vertical siding,
it's done with step-flashing, i.e. one 5x7 or 8x8 inch flashing card
under each shingle that laps out into the lower course. These are
installed with a slightly >90 degree bend that slips up behind the
siding. If it's a shed type roof that meets the siding, it's done with
a flashing that starts a few inches up under the t1-11 and laps down
and out onto the top course of the roof, covering the fasteners of
said course. There are instructions on how to do these procedures on
every bundle of shingles. How many jumps you got? Tom
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Posted by xparatrooper on October 6, 2009, 12:09 am
> and out onto the top course of the roof, covering the fasteners of
> said course. There are instructions on how to do these procedures on
> every bundle of shingles. How many jumps you got? Tom
Looks like the original installers didn't flash it at all. I've had
the house for 12 years and the garage was just tar and paper abutted
to the t1-11. I just finished putting bituthene on the whole roof
while I wait for next Spring to put on a metal roof. It will be
snowing up here in a couple days... so Spring will have to do. Looks
like maybe I can get up there with a worm drive and cut through the
t1-11 a couple inches above the roof line, and then attempt to pull
out the t1-11 enough to try to poke some flashing in behind for
drainage. Looks like a pain in the butt coming my way :) Any ideas
on what to use? a 6" roll and just bend it myself after it gets
tucked in? or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? I have about 20ft from
eave to peak on two sides.
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Posted by tom on October 6, 2009, 2:12 am
> > and out onto the top course of the roof, covering the fasteners of
> > said course. There are instructions on how to do these procedures on
> > every bundle of shingles. How many jumps you got? Tom
> Looks like the original installers didn't flash it at all. I've had
> the house for 12 years and the garage was just tar and paper abutted
> to the t1-11. I just finished putting bituthene on the whole roof
> while I wait for next Spring to put on a metal roof. It will be
> snowing up here in a couple days... so Spring will have to do. Looks
> like maybe I can get up there with a worm drive and cut through the
> t1-11 a couple inches above the roof line, and then attempt to pull
> out the t1-11 enough to try to poke some flashing in behind for
> drainage. Looks like a pain in the butt coming my way :) Any ideas
> on what to use? a 6" roll and just bend it myself after it gets
> tucked in? or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? I have about 20ft from
> eave to peak on two sides.
I'd use aluminum coil stock, and find someone with a brake. You don't
have to install the shed flashing in one piece. Maybe two or even
three pieces with a three-inch lap. Enjoy. Tom
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Posted by tom on October 6, 2009, 6:56 pm
> > and out onto the top course of the roof, covering the fasteners of
> > said course. There are instructions on how to do these procedures on
> > every bundle of shingles. How many jumps you got? Tom
> Looks like the original installers didn't flash it at all. I've had
> the house for 12 years and the garage was just tar and paper abutted
> to the t1-11. I just finished putting bituthene on the whole roof
> while I wait for next Spring to put on a metal roof. It will be
> snowing up here in a couple days... so Spring will have to do. Looks
> like maybe I can get up there with a worm drive and cut through the
> t1-11 a couple inches above the roof line, and then attempt to pull
> out the t1-11 enough to try to poke some flashing in behind for
> drainage. Looks like a pain in the butt coming my way :) Any ideas
> on what to use? a 6" roll and just bend it myself after it gets
> tucked in? or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? I have about 20ft from
> eave to peak on two sides.
Whoops. After re-reading your post, it sounds like you've got some
step-flashing to do. Tom
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> the grooves with foam insulation rope and caulk (and then a face
> board)? fill the grooves with caulk and run flashing in front? has
> anyone done this? I just recently bituthened the joint, running up
> the t1-11 about 5 inches. I figured I would screw a board into the
> t1-11 and caulk the snot out of it... but that is basically how it was
> done previously.. and it would occasionally leak a bit. What's a good
> move here? Any input would be appreciated.