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attached garage roof meets t1-11... how to flash? xparatrooper 10-05-2009
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Posted by xparatrooper on October 6, 2009, 8:44 pm


> > tucked in? =A0or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? =A0I have about 20ft fr=
om
> > eave to peak on two sides.
> Whoops. After re-reading your post, it sounds like you've got some
> step-flashing to do. =A0 Tom
You kind of lost me.... to get the siding to pull away from the
roof, I will end up cutting it maybe 3-4 inches above the roof. I
will then pry the siding away from the studs a little bit, which will
allow me to insert some flashing and then nail it down. The flashing
will then shed onto the roof, which is already coated 100% with
bituthene, and the bituthene actually crawls up the t1-11 siding about
3-4 inches. Would it really matter if I used step flashing, or 10ft
sections?

Posted by aemeijers on October 6, 2009, 9:21 pm


xparatrooper wrote:
>>> tucked in? or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? I have about 20ft from
>>> eave to peak on two sides.
>> Whoops. After re-reading your post, it sounds like you've got some
>> step-flashing to do. Tom
> You kind of lost me.... to get the siding to pull away from the
> roof, I will end up cutting it maybe 3-4 inches above the roof. I
> will then pry the siding away from the studs a little bit, which will
> allow me to insert some flashing and then nail it down. The flashing
> will then shed onto the roof, which is already coated 100% with
> bituthene, and the bituthene actually crawls up the t1-11 siding about
> 3-4 inches. Would it really matter if I used step flashing, or 10ft
> sections?

He missed the part where you will be putting on metal roofing. Step
flashing would be appropriate for shingles. I'm no expert, but your plan
sounds fine to me- basically a valley with one vertical side. If and
when I ever reskin my deck, I need to do about the same thing where
idiot previous owner nailed the deck ledger boards directly to the damn
siding- cut the siding back, flash, and hang the ledger boards off
waterproofed standoffs.

--
aem sends...

Posted by xparatrooper on October 6, 2009, 9:40 pm



> idiot previous owner nailed the deck ledger boards directly to the damn
> siding- cut the siding back, flash, and hang the ledger boards off
> waterproofed standoffs.
> --
> aem sends...

whew... thanks for that.

Posted by tom on October 7, 2009, 12:58 am


> xparatrooper wrote:
> >>> tucked in? or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? I have about 20ft from
> >>> eave to peak on two sides.
> >> Whoops. After re-reading your post, it sounds like you've got some
> >> step-flashing to do. Tom
> > You kind of lost me.... to get the siding to pull away from the
> > roof, I will end up cutting it maybe 3-4 inches above the roof. I
> > will then pry the siding away from the studs a little bit, which will
> > allow me to insert some flashing and then nail it down. The flashing
> > will then shed onto the roof, which is already coated 100% with
> > bituthene, and the bituthene actually crawls up the t1-11 siding about
> > 3-4 inches. Would it really matter if I used step flashing, or 10ft
> > sections?
> He missed the part where you will be putting on metal roofing. Step
> flashing would be appropriate for shingles. I'm no expert, but your plan
> sounds fine to me- basically a valley with one vertical side. If and
> when I ever reskin my deck, I need to do about the same thing where
> idiot previous owner nailed the deck ledger boards directly to the damn
> siding- cut the siding back, flash, and hang the ledger boards off
> waterproofed standoffs.
> --
> aem sends...

You're right, I missed the metal roofing. And I did _assume_
shingles, Jumper, go up under the siding with the bituthane, and lap
it _outside_onto the siding at the eave(you'll have to make a sort of
vertical cut in the siding), then install the rake panel with a bend a
few inches up under the siding. Make sure you allow the water to exit
from behind the siding at the eave on this piece, too. Good catch,
aem, thanks. Tom

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