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Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
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Posted by tom_sawyer70@yahoo.com on May 24, 2008, 1:06 am
A ball joint on the lawn tractor "popped" today on the steering arm
mechanism ... I'm new and relatively naive to mechanical devices so I
apologize in advance.
The ball joint socket does not appear to be something that I can put
back into place, but I'd like to know what keeps it in tact to begin
with. The other end of the steering rod has a ball joint but doesn't
seem to have much flexibility, but wanted to ask if there is solder or
other adhesive to keep it in place. I would believe that I have to
replace the joint, but it is in such an awkward spot that I might try
an alternative if a weld of some type might be easier to try in the
interim.
Just curious.
TIA,
Dave
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Posted by on May 24, 2008, 8:22 am
didnt say the tractor you have ,but if its a cheepie the ball is
crimped over to hold it in. youll need a new one
----------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm
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Posted by tom_sawyer70@yahoo.com on May 24, 2008, 4:23 pm
On May 24, 8:22 am, ds...@webtv.net wrote:
> didnt say the tractor you have ,but if its a cheepie the ball is
> crimped over to hold it in. youll need a new one
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm
Here is a picture of the part. Of course, the local hardware stores
carry ball joints with the male/female specs the same and on this one,
the size and threads are different.
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/searchdb_more_info.cfm?part_num=245013&format=searchdb
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Posted by tom_sawyer70@yahoo.com on May 24, 2008, 10:20 pm
On May 24, 6:18 pm, letter...@invalid.com wrote:
> You have to replace the whole bar with the joint on the end.
> I had a Murray mower do that. However, I used to just put the ball
> back over the hole and smack it with a hammer. It would hold for a
> few hours or sometimes a month or more. Eventually it got worse and I
> wired around it to keep it in place. The engine blew before I ever
> had to replace that joint. I recall the part was not cheap.
As of today, I have a few leads to potential local suppliers that may
have it ... unfortunately, the long weekend means that I will probably
not have an answer until Tuesday.
The joint does disconnect from the bar, so I really only need the ball
joint with it's 3/8" side and 7/16" side.
The actual part is anywhere from $6 to $14, depending on the vendor
and not including shipping ... alternatively, a local hardware store
suggested that I take their male/female "equal dimension" ball joint,
drill through the hole to open up enough to accept the larger size,
then hacksaw the end of the ball joint to clear the tie rod, but I'm a
bit reluctant to do so at this stage ... given that the new part may
only be a couple of days away.
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