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bending 1/2 inch wide stock to a 3/8 inch radius mm 11-11-2006
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Posted by mm on November 11, 2006, 3:06 pm


bending 1/2 inch wide stock to a 3/8 inch radius

I need to make a bracket for rear turn signals for my new-to-me '69
Honda cb450. I'm going to use a steel rod? [I don't know what you
call it. The Home Depot cash register calls it "flats"] 1/2"W by
1/8"T x about 18"L, and I need to bend it twice, 90 degrees at each
location, to make a rather square C shape, but the corners have to
have a 3/8" radius (to look good where it wraps around the luggage
rack. Can't figure out how to do this, and don't want to try too many
times. I look to you sages.

A. My vice has a rounded part at the end away from the vice, but it's
sort of conical.

B. I could clamp it in the vice at the start of the curve and clamp
two 6-inch pieces of 2x4 (or 1x2, or thinner if I could find some
steel to use) the right distance from the start of the curve ( (2 pi
R)/4 = one quarter of the circumference plus a tiny bit more for the
circumference of the outside side of the flat), but this assumes the
metal bends evenly. Is it likely to?

C. I could clamp the flat to the bike luggage rack and clamp two
6-inch pieces of 2x4 the right distance from the start of the curve
same as in B), but this assumes 1) bending it around the luggage rack
tube would make it bend evenly, and 2) that I could bend it in that
situation. Usually I bend this kind of stuff by hitting it with a
hammer, and here the luggage rack might be too springy to let it bend,
or I might break the luggage rack.

D. I could find some other rod or tube that is 3/4 inch in diameter
(2x3/8), clamp that in the vice, but then how to I hold one end of the
flat while I hit the other? This would be a problem for A too.

How would you do it?


BTW, the cycle ran for three seconds today. It's 2 cylinders. How do
I know if all of the good sounds are from one, or from both? Both
cylinders give a spark during testing, and both have a gasoline-wet
spark plug afterwards.

Spraying ether hasn't helped much. It says on the can, "Contains
upper cyclinder lubricant". Is it still bad for the bike?

Radiant Heat 468x60
Posted by BobK207 on November 11, 2006, 4:21 pm



mm wrote:
> bending 1/2 inch wide stock to a 3/8 inch radius
>
> I need to make a bracket for rear turn signals for my new-to-me '69
> Honda cb450. I'm going to use a steel rod? [I don't know what you
> call it. The Home Depot cash register calls it "flats"] 1/2"W by
> 1/8"T x about 18"L, and I need to bend it twice, 90 degrees at each
> location, to make a rather square C shape, but the corners have to
> have a 3/8" radius (to look good where it wraps around the luggage
> rack. Can't figure out how to do this, and don't want to try too many
> times. I look to you sages.
>
> A. My vice has a rounded part at the end away from the vice, but it's
> sort of conical.
>
> B. I could clamp it in the vice at the start of the curve and clamp
> two 6-inch pieces of 2x4 (or 1x2, or thinner if I could find some
> steel to use) the right distance from the start of the curve ( (2 pi
> R)/4 = one quarter of the circumference plus a tiny bit more for the
> circumference of the outside side of the flat), but this assumes the
> metal bends evenly. Is it likely to?

>
> C. I could clamp the flat to the bike luggage rack and clamp two
> 6-inch pieces of 2x4 the right distance from the start of the curve
> same as in B), but this assumes 1) bending it around the luggage rack
> tube would make it bend evenly, and 2) that I could bend it in that
> situation. Usually I bend this kind of stuff by hitting it with a
> hammer, and here the luggage rack might be too springy to let it bend,
> or I might break the luggage rack.
>
> D. I could find some other rod or tube that is 3/4 inch in diameter
> (2x3/8), clamp that in the vice, but then how to I hold one end of the
> flat while I hit the other? This would be a problem for A too.
>
> How would you do it?
>
>
> BTW, the cycle ran for three seconds today. It's 2 cylinders. How do
> I know if all of the good sounds are from one, or from both? Both
> cylinders give a spark during testing, and both have a gasoline-wet
> spark plug afterwards.
>
> Spraying ether hasn't helped much. It says on the can, "Contains
> upper cyclinder lubricant". Is it still bad for the bike?


mm-

Home brew metalworking is always difficult.........

You don't says "tall" the "C" is or how low the return legs on it are.

But if I were attempting this I would make a wooden mandrel that was as
wide as my C was to be tall.

I would radius the wood (but make the radius smaller than the desired
resultant radius becuase you'll get some spring back)

Dependign on how tall the C is I would use one or two C clamps to hold
the flat stock to the mandrel. Hold the mandrel in your vise & just
wrap the flat around the it. You need to leave the legs long (at
first) so you can get some leverage on the stock.

Once it's basically formed, slide it off the mandrel & blend it a
little more to square up the C.

When your happy with the shape, cut off the excess leg length.

Good luck....buy two pieces of stcok & return the unused piece if you
get it right the first time


Let us know how it works out

cheers
Bob


Posted by on November 11, 2006, 8:13 pm



>
> mm wrote:
>> bending 1/2 inch wide stock to a 3/8 inch radius
>>
>> I need to make a bracket for rear turn signals for my new-to-me '69
>> Honda cb450. I'm going to use a steel rod? [I don't know what you
>> call it. The Home Depot cash register calls it "flats"] 1/2"W by
>> 1/8"T x about 18"L, and I need to bend it twice, 90 degrees at each
>> location, to make a rather square C shape, but the corners have to
>> have a 3/8" radius (to look good where it wraps around the luggage
>> rack. Can't figure out how to do this, and don't want to try too many
>> times. I look to you sages.
>>
>> A. My vice has a rounded part at the end away from the vice, but it's
>> sort of conical.
>>
>> B. I could clamp it in the vice at the start of the curve and clamp
>> two 6-inch pieces of 2x4 (or 1x2, or thinner if I could find some
>> steel to use) the right distance from the start of the curve ( (2 pi
>> R)/4 = one quarter of the circumference plus a tiny bit more for the
>> circumference of the outside side of the flat), but this assumes the
>> metal bends evenly. Is it likely to?
>
>>
>> C. I could clamp the flat to the bike luggage rack and clamp two
>> 6-inch pieces of 2x4 the right distance from the start of the curve
>> same as in B), but this assumes 1) bending it around the luggage rack
>> tube would make it bend evenly, and 2) that I could bend it in that
>> situation. Usually I bend this kind of stuff by hitting it with a
>> hammer, and here the luggage rack might be too springy to let it bend,
>> or I might break the luggage rack.
>>
>> D. I could find some other rod or tube that is 3/4 inch in diameter
>> (2x3/8), clamp that in the vice, but then how to I hold one end of the
>> flat while I hit the other? This would be a problem for A too.
>>
>> How would you do it?
>>
>>
>> BTW, the cycle ran for three seconds today. It's 2 cylinders. How do
>> I know if all of the good sounds are from one, or from both? Both
>> cylinders give a spark during testing, and both have a gasoline-wet
>> spark plug afterwards.
>>
>> Spraying ether hasn't helped much. It says on the can, "Contains
>> upper cyclinder lubricant". Is it still bad for the bike?
>
>
> mm-
>
> Home brew metalworking is always difficult.........
>
> You don't says "tall" the "C" is or how low the return legs on it are.
>
> But if I were attempting this I would make a wooden mandrel that was as
> wide as my C was to be tall.
>
> I would radius the wood (but make the radius smaller than the desired
> resultant radius becuase you'll get some spring back)
>
> Dependign on how tall the C is I would use one or two C clamps to hold
> the flat stock to the mandrel. Hold the mandrel in your vise & just
> wrap the flat around the it. You need to leave the legs long (at
> first) so you can get some leverage on the stock.
>
> Once it's basically formed, slide it off the mandrel & blend it a
> little more to square up the C.
>
> When your happy with the shape, cut off the excess leg length.
>
> Good luck....buy two pieces of stcok & return the unused piece if you
> get it right the first time
>
I'd diagram it out full size on graph paper, and have the local machine shop
do it. How much is your time worth? By the time you build jigs, and probably
mess up the first stick of metal, they could have it whipped out for you,
and probably even plate it to match the other accessories on the bike. They
have bending jigs and machines to make about anything.

aem sends...



Posted by mm on November 11, 2006, 8:36 pm



>
>> Good luck....buy two pieces of stcok & return the unused piece if you
>> get it right the first time
>>
>I'd diagram it out full size on graph paper, and have the local machine shop
>do it.

That's a thought, although I don't even know where the local machine
shop is, or what it is called. Except for one I came across that
might do this sort of thing. Despite all my objections below, it is a
good idea, and I'll consider it.

>How much is your time worth?

One friend of mine rated his spare time (10 years ago, and he had a
college degree and a job in physics) at 40 cents an hour.

> By the time you build jigs, and probably
>mess up the first stick of metal, they could have it whipped out for you,

But just think how much I would learn. My long-time plan was to build
my own home, and it looks like I'll never do that. So maybe I can
make a bracket.

>and probably even plate it to match the other accessories on the bike. They

Plating is expensive now because of water pollution requirements. I
don't think I can afford that. I have more time than money.

Coincidentally, for a couple decades or more, the guy who gave me the
bike owned a plating company, that he got from his father. Life was
good until the run-off control laws he said, and he couldn't afford to
stay in business after they were passed. Although I'm sure the water
is a lot cleaner.

Fixing this thing is really the project. I doubt very much I'll ride
it more than 2000 miles and there is a good chance it will be no more
than 200. And it still doesn't look nice enough to sell for much
money. But I loved the project. I also had a long term goal to get
an old classic car that didn't run, running, but I have no place to
keep a non-running car. The motorcycle is small by comparison, and so
far easier to work on myself.

>have bending jigs and machines to make about anything.

Like I say, I will look into it. Thanks a lot.

>aem sends...
>


Posted by mm on November 11, 2006, 8:15 pm



>
>mm wrote:
>> bending 1/2 inch wide stock to a 3/8 inch radius
>>
>> I need to make a bracket for rear turn signals for my new-to-me '69
>> Honda cb450. I'm going to use a steel rod? [I don't know what you
>> call it. The Home Depot cash register calls it "flats"] 1/2"W by
>> 1/8"T x about 18"L, and I need to bend it twice, 90 degrees at each
>> location, to make a rather square C shape, but the corners have to
>> have a 3/8" radius (to look good where it wraps around the luggage
>> rack. Can't figure out how to do this, and don't want to try too many
>> times. I look to you sages.

[My four bad, or at least mediocre, ideas deleted.]

>> How would you do it?
>>
>mm-
>
>Home brew metalworking is always difficult.........

Yeah, but very satisfying.
>
>You don't says "tall" the "C" is or how low the return legs on it are.

Sorry. I was going to measure the "height" but forgot. It's about 10
inches high (the width of the motorcycle's "luggage rack") and the
horizontal legs are about 4 inches**
>
>But if I were attempting this I would make a wooden mandrel that was as
>wide as my C was to be tall.

Great idea. I didn't even come close.

And I see why you asked about size. Size shouldn't be a problem.

>I would radius the wood (but make the radius smaller than the desired
>resultant radius becuase you'll get some spring back)
>
>Dependign on how tall the C is I would use one or two C clamps to hold
>the flat stock to the mandrel. Hold the mandrel in your vise & just
>wrap the flat around the it. You need to leave the legs long (at
>first) so you can get some leverage on the stock.
>
>Once it's basically formed, slide it off the mandrel & blend it a
>little more to square up the C.
>
>When your happy with the shape, cut off the excess leg length.

Sounds good.

>Good luck....buy two pieces of stcok & return the unused piece if you
>get it right the first time

OK

>
>Let us know how it works out

I can't promise, but I intend to. Because this is two major steps
instead of just one, it will take longer than the method I had in
mind,

There are other threads I haven't given follow-ups on because the
weather is good, and I spend all my spare time outside working on the
motorcycle and getting the house and car ready for winter. When it's
dark I do a little personal email, and try to go to sleep early so I
can work some in the morning too.


**4 inches long to attractively hold the new rear turn signal lights.
Made in 1969, it didn't have turn signals at all, afaict, according to
the owner's manual, although it does have lights in the front. and a
switch added on to the handlebars. But no indication there were ever
such lights in the back. Well, it has wires going half-way back the
rear fender, under the seat, but no sign of where they might have been
attached to the bike. My friend who gave me the bike can't remember
such details from 35 years ago, or he doesn't want to try.

>cheers
>Bob


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