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cement laundry sink leaks at drain Nate Nagel 01-21-2008
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Posted by Nate Nagel on January 21, 2008, 6:14 pm
Hi again,

after this weekend's floor stripping extravaganza, I have an ugly but
eat-off-it clean cement floor in my laundry room, which makes me happy.
As a result of this, I think I've determined where the musty smell was
coming from - it's not the washing machine as SWMBO suspected (I think
she just wants an excuse to buy a new one, not that I'd need one if she
really wanted it) but from the drain of the deep sink. Due to the slope
of the slab, it was all running under the tiles to the corner under the
washing machine, thus incriminating the innocent appliance.

Upon investigation it appears that this cement deep sink, which is
absolutely huge, heavy, and otherwise in good condition, has a leak
around the drain assembly, which appears to be a piece of steel cast
into the sink, and the water is apparently running down the outside of
the drain assembly and dripping off the P-trap.

My plan, which is the best I could improvise on short notice, is to
chuck up a knotted wire wheel in my 4" grinder, knock off most of the
rust, prep with phosphoric acid, and smear some roofing tar around the
offending area, possibly including some scraps of screen for
reinforcement. Good plan? Bad plan?

I really don't want to replace this sink as it's enormous and quite
handy, and like most other ancient, huge, useful things probably
impossible to find a direct replacement.

I'd appreciate opinions and any experience as the faucet is leaking as
well, and rather than buy a new faucet for this sink (it clamps on the
edge of the sink and attaches to the water lines with unions from above,
quite unlike the faucets you'd use with a new sink) if the sink is
hopeless I may as well bite it and buy a new, modern sink and faucet to
match all at once.

thanks,

nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Posted by Speedy Jim on January 21, 2008, 6:43 pm
Nate Nagel wrote:
> Hi again,
>
> after this weekend's floor stripping extravaganza, I have an ugly but
> eat-off-it clean cement floor in my laundry room, which makes me happy.
> As a result of this, I think I've determined where the musty smell was
> coming from - it's not the washing machine as SWMBO suspected (I think
> she just wants an excuse to buy a new one, not that I'd need one if she
> really wanted it) but from the drain of the deep sink. Due to the slope
> of the slab, it was all running under the tiles to the corner under the
> washing machine, thus incriminating the innocent appliance.
>
> Upon investigation it appears that this cement deep sink, which is
> absolutely huge, heavy, and otherwise in good condition, has a leak
> around the drain assembly, which appears to be a piece of steel cast
> into the sink, and the water is apparently running down the outside of
> the drain assembly and dripping off the P-trap.
>
> My plan, which is the best I could improvise on short notice, is to
> chuck up a knotted wire wheel in my 4" grinder, knock off most of the
> rust, prep with phosphoric acid, and smear some roofing tar around the
> offending area, possibly including some scraps of screen for
> reinforcement. Good plan? Bad plan?
>
> I really don't want to replace this sink as it's enormous and quite
> handy, and like most other ancient, huge, useful things probably
> impossible to find a direct replacement.
>
> I'd appreciate opinions and any experience as the faucet is leaking as
> well, and rather than buy a new faucet for this sink (it clamps on the
> edge of the sink and attaches to the water lines with unions from above,
> quite unlike the faucets you'd use with a new sink) if the sink is
> hopeless I may as well bite it and buy a new, modern sink and faucet to
> match all at once.
>
> thanks,
>
> nate


The faucet is a common hardware store item:
Central Brass # 465
http://www.centralbrass.com/results1.asp?productnum=0465&pnidx=0

Clean the drain as you plan (use protective gear and eyewear!),
but I'm thinking epoxy applied with a small, stiff brush.

An alternate might be silicone sealant.

Dry the area thoroughly first with a hair dryer
or even a (small) propane torch.

Jim

Posted by Nate Nagel on January 21, 2008, 6:55 pm
Speedy Jim wrote:
> Nate Nagel wrote:
>
>> Hi again,
>>
>> after this weekend's floor stripping extravaganza, I have an ugly but
>> eat-off-it clean cement floor in my laundry room, which makes me
>> happy. As a result of this, I think I've determined where the musty
>> smell was coming from - it's not the washing machine as SWMBO
>> suspected (I think she just wants an excuse to buy a new one, not that
>> I'd need one if she really wanted it) but from the drain of the deep
>> sink. Due to the slope of the slab, it was all running under the
>> tiles to the corner under the washing machine, thus incriminating the
>> innocent appliance.
>>
>> Upon investigation it appears that this cement deep sink, which is
>> absolutely huge, heavy, and otherwise in good condition, has a leak
>> around the drain assembly, which appears to be a piece of steel cast
>> into the sink, and the water is apparently running down the outside of
>> the drain assembly and dripping off the P-trap.
>>
>> My plan, which is the best I could improvise on short notice, is to
>> chuck up a knotted wire wheel in my 4" grinder, knock off most of the
>> rust, prep with phosphoric acid, and smear some roofing tar around the
>> offending area, possibly including some scraps of screen for
>> reinforcement. Good plan? Bad plan?
>>
>> I really don't want to replace this sink as it's enormous and quite
>> handy, and like most other ancient, huge, useful things probably
>> impossible to find a direct replacement.
>>
>> I'd appreciate opinions and any experience as the faucet is leaking as
>> well, and rather than buy a new faucet for this sink (it clamps on the
>> edge of the sink and attaches to the water lines with unions from
>> above, quite unlike the faucets you'd use with a new sink) if the sink
>> is hopeless I may as well bite it and buy a new, modern sink and
>> faucet to match all at once.
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> nate
>
>
>
> The faucet is a common hardware store item:
> Central Brass # 465
> http://www.centralbrass.com/results1.asp?productnum=0465&pnidx=0
>

Actually mine looks more like this one:

http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/81220/icn/20-354977/union_brass_metal/42.htm

but the actual spout comes out the underside of the faucet not the top
(no big deal.) Your suggestion would require replumbing (extending the
pipes) but would probably provide for a more stable installation...
anyway my point was not that I'm having a hard time finding a
replacement faucet but that it would be pointless to rebuild or replace
my existing faucet (I'm leaning toward "replace" simply because the
clamp screws appear to be rusted solid, and drilling/tapping all those
holes looks like a PITA) if I'm going to end up replacing the deep sink
shortly anyways.

> Clean the drain as you plan (use protective gear and eyewear!),
> but I'm thinking epoxy applied with a small, stiff brush.

Hmm, maybe POR-15?

>
> An alternate might be silicone sealant.
>

That was my original thought, but then I thought Permatex No. 2 would
probably work better, which eventually led me to the roofing tar idea.


> Dry the area thoroughly first with a hair dryer
> or even a (small) propane torch.
>

Check. Propane torch at the ready, I'd already thought of that.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Posted by hallerb@aol.com on January 21, 2008, 7:04 pm
> Speedy Jim wrote:
> > Nate Nagel wrote:
>
> >> Hi again,
>
> >> after this weekend's floor stripping extravaganza, I have an ugly but
> >> eat-off-it clean cement floor in my laundry room, which makes me
> >> happy. =EF=BF=BDAs a result of this, I think I've determined where the =
musty
> >> smell was coming from - it's not the washing machine as SWMBO
> >> suspected (I think she just wants an excuse to buy a new one, not that
> >> I'd need one if she really wanted it) but from the drain of the deep
> >> sink. =EF=BF=BDDue to the slope of the slab, it was all running under t=
he
> >> tiles to the corner under the washing machine, thus incriminating the
> >> innocent appliance.
>
> >> Upon investigation it appears that this cement deep sink, which is
> >> absolutely huge, heavy, and otherwise in good condition, has a leak
> >> around the drain assembly, which appears to be a piece of steel cast
> >> into the sink, and the water is apparently running down the outside of
> >> the drain assembly and dripping off the P-trap.
>
> >> My plan, which is the best I could improvise on short notice, is to
> >> chuck up a knotted wire wheel in my 4" grinder, knock off most of the
> >> rust, prep with phosphoric acid, and smear some roofing tar around the
> >> offending area, possibly including some scraps of screen for
> >> reinforcement. =EF=BF=BDGood plan? =EF=BF=BDBad plan?
>
> >> I really don't want to replace this sink as it's enormous and quite
> >> handy, and like most other ancient, huge, useful things probably
> >> impossible to find a direct replacement.
>
> >> I'd appreciate opinions and any experience as the faucet is leaking as
> >> well, and rather than buy a new faucet for this sink (it clamps on the
> >> edge of the sink and attaches to the water lines with unions from
> >> above, quite unlike the faucets you'd use with a new sink) if the sink
> >> is hopeless I may as well bite it and buy a new, modern sink and
> >> faucet to match all at once.
>
> >> thanks,
>
> >> nate
>
> > The faucet is a common hardware store item:
> > Central Brass # 465
> >http://www.centralbrass.com/results1.asp?productnum=3D0465&pnidx=3D0
>
> Actually mine looks more like this one:
>
> http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/81220/icn/20-354977/union_b...
>
> but the actual spout comes out the underside of the faucet not the top
> (no big deal.) =EF=BF=BDYour suggestion would require replumbing (extendin=
g the
> pipes) but would probably provide for a more stable installation...
> anyway my point was not that I'm having a hard time finding a
> replacement faucet but that it would be pointless to rebuild or replace
> my existing faucet (I'm leaning toward "replace" simply because the
> clamp screws appear to be rusted solid, and drilling/tapping all those
> holes looks like a PITA) if I'm going to end up replacing the deep sink
> shortly anyways.
>
> > Clean the drain as you plan (use protective gear and eyewear!),
> > but I'm thinking epoxy applied with a small, stiff brush.
>
> Hmm, maybe POR-15?
>
>
>
> > An alternate might be silicone sealant.
>
> That was my original thought, but then I thought Permatex No. 2 would
> probably work better, which eventually led me to the roofing tar idea.
>
> > Dry the area thoroughly first with a hair dryer
> > or even a (small) propane torch.
>
> Check. =EF=BF=BDPropane torch at the ready, I'd already thought of that.
>
> nate
>
> --
> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel- Hid=
e quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

a new fiberglass tub is low cost, and nice.

break up the old tub in location, i buried the remants in my yard.

I found the drain pipe rusted thru, withn no easy fix.

it broke off in my hand

Posted by Nate Nagel on January 21, 2008, 7:36 pm
hallerb@aol.com wrote:
>
>>Speedy Jim wrote:
>>
>>>Nate Nagel wrote:
>>
>>>>Hi again,
>>
>>>>after this weekend's floor stripping extravaganza, I have an ugly but
>>>>eat-off-it clean cement floor in my laundry room, which makes me
>>>>happy. �As a result of this, I think I've determined where the musty
>>>>smell was coming from - it's not the washing machine as SWMBO
>>>>suspected (I think she just wants an excuse to buy a new one, not that
>>>>I'd need one if she really wanted it) but from the drain of the deep
>>>>sink. �Due to the slope of the slab, it was all running under the
>>>>tiles to the corner under the washing machine, thus incriminating the
>>>>innocent appliance.
>>
>>>>Upon investigation it appears that this cement deep sink, which is
>>>>absolutely huge, heavy, and otherwise in good condition, has a leak
>>>>around the drain assembly, which appears to be a piece of steel cast
>>>>into the sink, and the water is apparently running down the outside of
>>>>the drain assembly and dripping off the P-trap.
>>
>>>>My plan, which is the best I could improvise on short notice, is to
>>>>chuck up a knotted wire wheel in my 4" grinder, knock off most of the
>>>>rust, prep with phosphoric acid, and smear some roofing tar around the
>>>>offending area, possibly including some scraps of screen for
>>>>reinforcement. �Good plan? �Bad plan?
>>
>>>>I really don't want to replace this sink as it's enormous and quite
>>>>handy, and like most other ancient, huge, useful things probably
>>>>impossible to find a direct replacement.
>>
>>>>I'd appreciate opinions and any experience as the faucet is leaking as
>>>>well, and rather than buy a new faucet for this sink (it clamps on the
>>>>edge of the sink and attaches to the water lines with unions from
>>>>above, quite unlike the faucets you'd use with a new sink) if the sink
>>>>is hopeless I may as well bite it and buy a new, modern sink and
>>>>faucet to match all at once.
>>
>>>>thanks,
>>
>>>>nate
>>
>>>The faucet is a common hardware store item:
>>>Central Brass # 465
>>>http://www.centralbrass.com/results1.asp?productnum=0465&pnidx=0
>>
>>Actually mine looks more like this one:
>>
>>http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/81220/icn/20-354977/union_b...
>>
>>but the actual spout comes out the underside of the faucet not the top
>>(no big deal.) �Your suggestion would require replumbing (extending the
>>pipes) but would probably provide for a more stable installation...
>>anyway my point was not that I'm having a hard time finding a
>>replacement faucet but that it would be pointless to rebuild or replace
>>my existing faucet (I'm leaning toward "replace" simply because the
>>clamp screws appear to be rusted solid, and drilling/tapping all those
>>holes looks like a PITA) if I'm going to end up replacing the deep sink
>>shortly anyways.
>>
>>
>>>Clean the drain as you plan (use protective gear and eyewear!),
>>>but I'm thinking epoxy applied with a small, stiff brush.
>>
>>Hmm, maybe POR-15?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>An alternate might be silicone sealant.
>>
>>That was my original thought, but then I thought Permatex No. 2 would
>>probably work better, which eventually led me to the roofing tar idea.
>>
>>
>>>Dry the area thoroughly first with a hair dryer
>>>or even a (small) propane torch.
>>
>>Check. �Propane torch at the ready, I'd already thought of that.
>>
>>nate
>>
>>--
>>replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel- Hide
quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> a new fiberglass tub is low cost, and nice.
>
> break up the old tub in location, i buried the remants in my yard.
>
> I found the drain pipe rusted thru, withn no easy fix.
>
> it broke off in my hand

I am not entirely nuts about replacing this sink with a new 'glass
one... it's bigger than anything I've seen at my local Big Box; it's
heavy (read stable,) and also the plumbing coming down from above is
preferable in my opinion (allows plumbing to drain completely if
required as the spigot is the low spot.)

I just got a brainwave - how 'bout if I have the same problem as you, I
simply take a plastic kitchen sink strainer, bust out the center of it,
and attach it to the underside of the sink (after grinding the old steel
piece flush to the underside of the sink and smoothing the area) with
construction adhesive or similar? The only downside to this is that a
standard sink strainer is about 4-1/2" and the steel piece is about 6"
wide so I'd have to improvise a plate of something in between.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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