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Posted by Tony on September 22, 2009, 11:06 am
Stormin Mormon wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> The chain fits into a groove. If one side of the groove is
> lower, the chain tilts and pulls toward that side. Flat file
> across the groove (perpendicular to the bar). It's hard to
> describe in a text only email.
OK, I understand now.
show/hide quoted text
> Flip the bar over is like rotate the tires on your vehicle.
> Both are very good ideas.
>
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Posted by Zephyr on September 21, 2009, 9:34 pm
> hey all,
> I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
> I think can be solved with better technique...
> I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
> progress thru the log.
> IE, =A0the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.
> its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
> necessary ;
> any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?
> I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
> saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, =A0 in both
> cases the cut would end up the same.
Thanks everyone for your input!
I think I will change the chain and give it a go again. I was looking
at the dust being kicked out by the saw, and it looked really fine
compared to the larger bits of wood the chain was throwing earlier.
I'm guessing the chain is starting to dull, and with me trying to push
it, I was sending it off. The chain wears so gradually I don't notice
it right away.
thanks again!
Dave
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Posted by Bob F on September 22, 2009, 11:04 am
Zephyr wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>> hey all,
>> I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
>> I think can be solved with better technique...
>> I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
>> progress thru the log.
>> IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.
>> its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
>> necessary ;
>> any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?
>> I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
>> saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
>> cases the cut would end up the same.
> Thanks everyone for your input!
> I think I will change the chain and give it a go again. I was looking
> at the dust being kicked out by the saw, and it looked really fine
> compared to the larger bits of wood the chain was throwing earlier.
> I'm guessing the chain is starting to dull, and with me trying to push
> it, I was sending it off. The chain wears so gradually I don't notice
> it right away.
It only takes a few minutes to sharpen the chain with a file.
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Posted by Tony on September 21, 2009, 9:49 pm
Zephyr wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> hey all,
>
> I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
> I think can be solved with better technique...
> I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
> progress thru the log.
> IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.
>
> its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
> necessary ;
>
> any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?
>
> I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
> saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
> cases the cut would end up the same.
Every time I've seen that problem it was due to the chain needing
sharpening, or it wasn't sharpened properly. Just a few days ago I
tried taking a little shortcut while sharpening the chain, yep it cut in
a curve. Sharpened it properly and it worked just fine.
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Posted by Lefty on September 22, 2009, 3:41 pm
show/hide quoted text
> hey all,
> I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
> I think can be solved with better technique...
> I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
> progress thru the log.
> IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.
> its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
> necessary ;
> any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?
> I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
> saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
> cases the cut would end up the same.
Flip the bar over, put the saw back together and try again. Is it still
your "technique", or is it cutting better now?
Word to the wise, some bars are'nt meant to be flipped over. If yours is
concentric, and has oiler holes in both sides, you should be OK.
HTH, Lefty
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> lower, the chain tilts and pulls toward that side. Flat file
> across the groove (perpendicular to the bar). It's hard to
> describe in a text only email.