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circuit tester indicates 'hot/neutral reverse at an outlet...but nothing works at it.

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circuit tester indicates 'hot/neutral reverse at an outlet...but nothing works at it. brian 11-04-2007
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Posted by brian on November 4, 2007, 1:43 am
In reading a few posts here, the H/N reversed readout seems not all
that uncommon (using a 3 bulb tester). But in my situation no
appliances work from this outlet, which seems atypical of the posts
I've seem, which seem to say things will work, just un-safely. The
same situation exists at (what I expect) is the next wall outlet along
this circuit.

Could the 'fix' for these outlets be something other than reversing
the connections in the box?

I should also add that I think the end of this circuit is at a never-
functioned ceiling light outlet.

House built 1974. One owner.

Thanks. I know this is very brief, just keeping it simple to start.

Brian


AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by RBM on November 4, 2007, 8:06 am
Those testers are not reliable in open circuit situations. If you use a lamp
in a pigtail socket, test between the ground and hot(small slot), you should
get a light. Then test between the hot and neutral, you should get a light.
If you didn't get the first light, but did get the second, your hot and
neutrals are reversed, otherwise, you have an open circuit to one or the
other conductors. As outlet wiring is typically daisy chained, you want to
look in the last working outlet on the chain or the first dead outlet , for
the loose connection.



> In reading a few posts here, the H/N reversed readout seems not all
> that uncommon (using a 3 bulb tester). But in my situation no
> appliances work from this outlet, which seems atypical of the posts
> I've seem, which seem to say things will work, just un-safely. The
> same situation exists at (what I expect) is the next wall outlet along
> this circuit.
>
> Could the 'fix' for these outlets be something other than reversing
> the connections in the box?
>
> I should also add that I think the end of this circuit is at a never-
> functioned ceiling light outlet.
>
> House built 1974. One owner.
>
> Thanks. I know this is very brief, just keeping it simple to start.
>
> Brian
>



Posted by brian on November 4, 2007, 9:56 am
Thanks,

I will check those tests later today. I have not changed any
connections yet.


> Those testers are not reliable in open circuit situations. If you use a lamp
> in a pigtail socket, test between the ground and hot(small slot), you should
> get a light. Then test between the hot and neutral, you should get a light.
> If you didn't get the first light, but did get the second, your hot and
> neutrals are reversed, otherwise, you have an open circuit to one or the
> other conductors. As outlet wiring is typically daisy chained, you want to
> look in the last working outlet on the chain or the first dead outlet , for
> the loose connection.
>
>
>
> > In reading a few posts here, the H/N reversed readout seems not all
> > that uncommon (using a 3 bulb tester). But in my situation no
> > appliances work from this outlet, which seems atypical of the posts
> > I've seem, which seem to say things will work, just un-safely. The
> > same situation exists at (what I expect) is the next wall outlet along
> > this circuit.
>
> > Could the 'fix' for these outlets be something other than reversing
> > the connections in the box?
>
> > I should also add that I think the end of this circuit is at a never-
> > functioned ceiling light outlet.
>
> > House built 1974. One owner.
>
> > Thanks. I know this is very brief, just keeping it simple to start.
>
> > Brian



Posted by RBM on November 4, 2007, 10:15 am
It definitely sounds like an open circuit, but until you do the test, you
won't know if it's the hot or the neutral leg that's open. You will probably
find a badly back stabbed outlet is the culprit


> Thanks,
>
> I will check those tests later today. I have not changed any
> connections yet.
>
>
>> Those testers are not reliable in open circuit situations. If you use a
>> lamp
>> in a pigtail socket, test between the ground and hot(small slot), you
>> should
>> get a light. Then test between the hot and neutral, you should get a
>> light.
>> If you didn't get the first light, but did get the second, your hot and
>> neutrals are reversed, otherwise, you have an open circuit to one or the
>> other conductors. As outlet wiring is typically daisy chained, you want
>> to
>> look in the last working outlet on the chain or the first dead outlet ,
>> for
>> the loose connection.
>>
>>
>>
>> > In reading a few posts here, the H/N reversed readout seems not all
>> > that uncommon (using a 3 bulb tester). But in my situation no
>> > appliances work from this outlet, which seems atypical of the posts
>> > I've seem, which seem to say things will work, just un-safely. The
>> > same situation exists at (what I expect) is the next wall outlet along
>> > this circuit.
>>
>> > Could the 'fix' for these outlets be something other than reversing
>> > the connections in the box?
>>
>> > I should also add that I think the end of this circuit is at a never-
>> > functioned ceiling light outlet.
>>
>> > House built 1974. One owner.
>>
>> > Thanks. I know this is very brief, just keeping it simple to start.
>>
>> > Brian
>
>



Posted by terry on November 4, 2007, 10:49 am
> It definitely sounds like an open circuit, but until you do the test, you
> won't know if it's the hot or the neutral leg that's open. You will probably
> find a badly back stabbed outlet is the culprit
>
>
>
>
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > I will check those tests later today. I have not changed any
> > connections yet.
>
> >> Those testers are not reliable in open circuit situations. If you use a
> >> lamp
> >> in a pigtail socket, test between the ground and hot(small slot), you
> >> should
> >> get a light. Then test between the hot and neutral, you should get a
> >> light.
> >> If you didn't get the first light, but did get the second, your hot and
> >> neutrals are reversed, otherwise, you have an open circuit to one or the
> >> other conductors. As outlet wiring is typically daisy chained, you want
> >> to
> >> look in the last working outlet on the chain or the first dead outlet ,
> >> for
> >> the loose connection.
>
>
>
> >> > In reading a few posts here, the H/N reversed readout seems not all
> >> > that uncommon (using a 3 bulb tester). But in my situation no
> >> > appliances work from this outlet, which seems atypical of the posts
> >> > I've seem, which seem to say things will work, just un-safely. The
> >> > same situation exists at (what I expect) is the next wall outlet along
> >> > this circuit.
>
> >> > Could the 'fix' for these outlets be something other than reversing
> >> > the connections in the box?
>
> >> > I should also add that I think the end of this circuit is at a never-
> >> > functioned ceiling light outlet.
>
> >> > House built 1974. One owner.
>
> >> > Thanks. I know this is very brief, just keeping it simple to start.
>
> >> > Brian- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Remembering that quite often (especially with those back stabbed
outlets but also with other types of duplex outlets) the current will
likely go 'through' each outlet to the next one in the chain of six to
ten on that 'run'. Not very many domestically wired duplex outlets
have seen are pigtailed off the live and neutral in the back of each
metal duplex box.


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