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cutting a 32" door into a block home construction tr 05-16-2007
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Posted by tr on May 16, 2007, 12:59 pm
I need to cut a new 32" exterior door in to my masonry block home.
the location of this will be right at the corner junction of two
exterior walls. The type block in this area is the shorter 4"
height...not the typical 8 or 9 inch high hollow core block. I have a
flat roof and this door way will be about 3.5 feet below the roof
line.

Can I cut flush with the perpendicular exterior block wall and mount
my double side framing flush with the perpendicular corner wall...or
should I cut so there is at least some of the return wall stub left in
the corner ?

Also...do I need to support the opening during cutting will some type
of post....or will the block construction be strong enough to cut out
the 32" x 90" or so opening and install the reinforced sides and
header without a temporary support system ?

Thanks, Tim


AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by hallerb@aol.com on May 16, 2007, 3:00 pm
> I need to cut a new 32" exterior door in to my masonry block home.
> the location of this will be right at the corner junction of two
> exterior walls. =A0The type block in this area is the shorter 4"
> height...not the typical 8 or 9 inch high hollow core block. =A0I have a
> flat roof and this door way will be about 3.5 feet below the roof
> line.
>
> Can I cut flush with the perpendicular exterior block wall and mount
> my double side framing flush with the perpendicular corner wall...or
> should I cut so there is at least some of the return wall stub left in
> the corner ?
>
> Also...do I need to support =A0the opening during cutting will some type
> of post....or will the block construction be strong enough to cut out
> the 32" x 90" or so opening and install the reinforced sides and
> header without a temporary support system ?
>
> Thanks, Tim

cut a slot across the top with a masonary saw, then slide the lintel
in place. the lintel is a heavy steel plate thats wider than the door
opening and supports everything above.

once the lintel is in and secured you can cut and remove block, its a
very dusty job. then install door frame


Posted by dpb on May 16, 2007, 3:01 pm
> I need to cut a new 32" exterior door in to my masonry block home.
> the location of this will be right at the corner junction of two
> exterior walls. The type block in this area is the shorter 4"
> height...not the typical 8 or 9 inch high hollow core block. I have a
> flat roof and this door way will be about 3.5 feet below the roof
> line.
>
> Can I cut flush with the perpendicular exterior block wall and mount
> my double side framing flush with the perpendicular corner wall...or
> should I cut so there is at least some of the return wall stub left in
> the corner ?
>
> Also...do I need to support the opening during cutting will some type
> of post....or will the block construction be strong enough to cut out
> the 32" x 90" or so opening and install the reinforced sides and
> header without a temporary support system ?

I would definitely leave at least a full block length and preferably
two around the corner for the stiffness. I would not under any
circumstances cut it back flush to the other wall unless were putting
in some serious steel (like channel or heavy angle, not just flat).

Is the entry wall on the bearing or end/gable wall? Is this a hollow
block or solid? It will _probably_ stay in place long enough to make
the opening but I'd sure have blocking prepared and ready at hand.
Will need a new steel lintel, of course.

While at it, I'd suggest 36" for exterior rather than 32", but maybe
there's a conflicting reason predicating against it.


Posted by on May 16, 2007, 3:20 pm
> I need to cut a new 32" exterior door in to my masonry block home.
> the location of this will be right at the corner junction of two
> exterior walls. The type block in this area is the shorter 4"
> height...not the typical 8 or 9 inch high hollow core block. I have a
> flat roof and this door way will be about 3.5 feet below the roof
> line.
>
> Can I cut flush with the perpendicular exterior block wall and mount
> my double side framing flush with the perpendicular corner wall...or
> should I cut so there is at least some of the return wall stub left in
> the corner ?
>
> Also...do I need to support the opening during cutting will some type
> of post....or will the block construction be strong enough to cut out
> the 32" x 90" or so opening and install the reinforced sides and
> header without a temporary support system ?
>
> Thanks, Tim

If your area has building codes, talk to the Building Official or a
plans examiner about the requirements. They will probably want an
engineer's certification.

If you don't have building codes, do what you want. If it falls down,
fix it.


Posted by Lawrence on May 16, 2007, 6:31 pm
> I need to cut a new 32" exterior door in to my masonry block home.
> the location of this will be right at the corner junction of two
> exterior walls. The type block in this area is the shorter 4"
> height...not the typical 8 or 9 inch high hollow core block. I have a
> flat roof and this door way will be about 3.5 feet below the roof
> line.
>
> Can I cut flush with the perpendicular exterior block wall and mount
> my double side framing flush with the perpendicular corner wall...or
> should I cut so there is at least some of the return wall stub left in
> the corner ?
>
> Also...do I need to support the opening during cutting will some type
> of post....or will the block construction be strong enough to cut out
> the 32" x 90" or so opening and install the reinforced sides and
> header without a temporary support system ?
>
> Thanks, Tim

OK, I am not an expert but here's my opinion. I think you want to
leave a wall return when cutting. Otherwise you will be framing in
the actual corner rather than on the side wall, much easier. Pick a
wall for that door, better if is it non-load bearing.

If your roof is flat then all of the walls may essentially be load
bearing walls. I don't think you need to support that block when
cutting. I don't even know how you could support it and cut it at the
same time, very tricky. A very good idea would be to prepare to
support it as soon as it is cut, why not?

You will want to frame a header inside the rough opening to give you
the size of your door frame and support your wall anyway. If you have
those framing members sized and ready to go then you can insert a
permanent support just as easily as a temporary one, that's the
ticket.



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