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Posted by big e lewis on October 10, 2006, 10:16 pm
I have a Whirlpool Estate electric dryer. Sunday, the dryer wouldn't
come on, found the breaker in the basement fusepanel was tripped. I
reset it, all was well for several more loads that day. Now today, the
dryer will only run for about 1 minute before the breaker trips, I reset
the breaker, and it will run for another minute before it trips again.
The dryer is only about 2 year old, this is the 1st problem, and there
are no stange noises. Any ideas/suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Earl
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Posted by Tony Hwang on October 10, 2006, 10:30 pm
big e lewis wrote:
> I have a Whirlpool Estate electric dryer. Sunday, the dryer wouldn't
> come on, found the breaker in the basement fusepanel was tripped. I
> reset it, all was well for several more loads that day. Now today, the
> dryer will only run for about 1 minute before the breaker trips, I reset
> the breaker, and it will run for another minute before it trips again.
> The dryer is only about 2 year old, this is the 1st problem, and there
> are no stange noises. Any ideas/suggestions are greatly appreciated!
> Thanks, Earl
>
Hi,
Heating element problem?(partial short or burn out)
Or something loose.
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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on October 10, 2006, 10:41 pm
probably a failed element....
partial now cmplete short to ground......
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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on October 10, 2006, 10:41 pm
probably a failed element....
partial now cmplete short to ground......
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Posted by jeffreydesign on October 11, 2006, 3:24 am
DANGER Will Robinson, DANGER
When you breaker tripped the first time, that should have been a clue.
When it tripped the second time, you should've stopped using the dryer
until you positively determined and remedied the problem.
A circuit breaker is foremost a safety device.
Usually when it trips, it is overloaded or shorted. Overload can be a
result of a loose connection (read: fire danger) or a bad heating
element (less dangerous but still a possible fire danger) and a dead
short is also a dangerous situation especially with 220 volts.
**First, unplug your dryer then make SURE the dryer's breaker is shut
OFF**. Follow the cord up into the back of the dryer and check the
connections (you will probably have to remove a small metal panel) make
sure each one is tight and there are no signs of heat (look at the wire
insulation) at the junction. If it's a three-wire cord, make sure the
neutral to ground strap is sound. If everything there looks good there,
open the dryer outlet cover (remember, you shut off the breaker,
right?) and look in there for signs of heat or spark. If everything
looks clean, then button it all back up and open your breaker panel and
shut off the big MAIN (this should shut off ALL electricity to your
home.) Pull the panel cover and tighten up all the connectons
(especially the neutral wires [white]) and if ANY of your wires are
aluminum (as opposed to copper) inspect them first. Aluminum tends to
loosen first and a loose connection can generate some heat, further
loosening it. Look at the wires that go into your dryer breaker. Make
sure they are SNUG. Don't mess with the wires that go into the MAIN
breaker.
If you've done all that and your breaker still trips, it's likely the
dryer.
Jeff
big e lewis wrote:
> I have a Whirlpool Estate electric dryer. Sunday, the dryer wouldn't
> come on, found the breaker in the basement fusepanel was tripped. I
> reset it, all was well for several more loads that day. Now today, the
> dryer will only run for about 1 minute before the breaker trips, I reset
> the breaker, and it will run for another minute before it trips again.
> The dryer is only about 2 year old, this is the 1st problem, and there
> are no stange noises. Any ideas/suggestions are greatly appreciated!
> Thanks, Earl
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