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glueing together the two parts of a Formica counter, and the end pieces mm 09-14-2006
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Posted by mm on September 14, 2006, 8:25 pm
glueing together the two parts of a Formica counter, and the end
pieces


I think I wish now I had just ordered the thing assembled, but being
the devoted DIYer, I bought a formica counter in two pieces, for an
L-shaped counter.

The assembly kit, with the turnbolts, came with powdered glue to mix
up, to glue the two pieces together.

Is this the best to use, or should I use TiteBond III or Elmers
Furniture Glue (I think it is called. Tan in a squeeze bottle) or even
Elmers white glue.

It seems like a pitfall would be not mixing the powdered glue to the
right thickness, and that using liquid glue would avoid that. And I'm
guessing they include it just because it packs flat and doesn't harden
even if it takes years to sell. That it's not the best glue, just the
best for them to sell in this case.

Also I have to glue on end pieces, but I forget now if they have
adhesive already, or what.

ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD KNOW ABOUT GLUING TOGETHER THE COUNTER?

Thanks.

Posted by Joseph Meehan on September 14, 2006, 9:01 pm
mm wrote:
> glueing together the two parts of a Formica counter, and the end
> pieces
>
>
> I think I wish now I had just ordered the thing assembled, but being
> the devoted DIYer, I bought a formica counter in two pieces, for an
> L-shaped counter.
>
> The assembly kit, with the turnbolts, came with powdered glue to mix
> up, to glue the two pieces together.
>
> Is this the best to use, or should I use TiteBond III or Elmers
> Furniture Glue (I think it is called. Tan in a squeeze bottle) or even
> Elmers white glue.
>
> It seems like a pitfall would be not mixing the powdered glue to the
> right thickness, and that using liquid glue would avoid that. And I'm
> guessing they include it just because it packs flat and doesn't harden
> even if it takes years to sell. That it's not the best glue, just the
> best for them to sell in this case.
>
> Also I have to glue on end pieces, but I forget now if they have
> adhesive already, or what.
>
> ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD KNOW ABOUT GLUING TOGETHER THE COUNTER?
>
> Thanks.

I suggest using what they provided.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit



Posted by RayV on September 14, 2006, 9:21 pm

mm wrote:
> glueing together the two parts of a Formica counter, and the end
> pieces
>
>
> I think I wish now I had just ordered the thing assembled, but being
> the devoted DIYer, I bought a formica counter in two pieces, for an
> L-shaped counter.
>
> The assembly kit, with the turnbolts, came with powdered glue to mix
> up, to glue the two pieces together.
>
> Is this the best to use, or should I use TiteBond III or Elmers
> Furniture Glue (I think it is called. Tan in a squeeze bottle) or even
> Elmers white glue.
>
> It seems like a pitfall would be not mixing the powdered glue to the
> right thickness, and that using liquid glue would avoid that. And I'm
> guessing they include it just because it packs flat and doesn't harden
> even if it takes years to sell. That it's not the best glue, just the
> best for them to sell in this case.
>
> Also I have to glue on end pieces, but I forget now if they have
> adhesive already, or what.
>
> ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD KNOW ABOUT GLUING TOGETHER THE COUNTER?
>
> Thanks.

Since you have the turnbolts I wouls schmear the two mating surfaces
with clear silicone. Tighten the bolts and clean up the excess with
vinegar. Also schmear up around the cutout for the sink and primer
underneath especially if you have a dishwasher.

Most of the end pieces I have seen are "iron-on" using a heat activated
glue. carefuly sand the edges after you put them on so you have a
slight bevel to prevent chipping.

Don't use your cordless drill to screw into the countertop through the
flimsy, easily bent corner brackets of your cabinets. Do it by
hand-much safer.


Posted by mm on September 14, 2006, 9:52 pm

>
>mm wrote:
>> glueing together the two parts of a Formica counter, and the end
>> pieces
>>
>>
>> I think I wish now I had just ordered the thing assembled, but being
>> the devoted DIYer, I bought a formica counter in two pieces, for an
>> L-shaped counter.
>>
>> The assembly kit, with the turnbolts, came with powdered glue to mix
>> up, to glue the two pieces together.
>>
>> Is this the best to use, or should I use TiteBond III or Elmers
>> Furniture Glue (I think it is called. Tan in a squeeze bottle) or even
>> Elmers white glue.
>>
>> It seems like a pitfall would be not mixing the powdered glue to the
>> right thickness, and that using liquid glue would avoid that. And I'm
>> guessing they include it just because it packs flat and doesn't harden
>> even if it takes years to sell. That it's not the best glue, just the
>> best for them to sell in this case.
>>
>> Also I have to glue on end pieces, but I forget now if they have
>> adhesive already, or what.
>>
>> ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD KNOW ABOUT GLUING TOGETHER THE COUNTER?
>>
>> Thanks.
>
>Since you have the turnbolts I wouls schmear the two mating surfaces
>with clear silicone. Tighten the bolts and clean up the excess with
>vinegar. Also schmear up around the cutout for the sink and primer
>underneath especially if you have a dishwasher.

The sink hole, ok, but I'm influenced by the other two posts to stay
with the stuff they gave me.

>Most of the end pieces I have seen are "iron-on" using a heat activated
>glue. carefuly sand the edges after you put them on so you have a
>slight bevel to prevent chipping.

Thank you, I will do that.

>Don't use your cordless drill to screw into the countertop through the
>flimsy, easily bent corner brackets of your cabinets. Do it by
>hand-much safer.

I'll do that too. Hadn't thought of these things.

Thanks a lot

Posted by RayV on September 15, 2006, 7:59 am

mm wrote:
>
> >
> >Since you have the turnbolts I wouls schmear the two mating surfaces
> >with clear silicone. Tighten the bolts and clean up the excess with
> >vinegar. Also schmear up around the cutout for the sink and primer
> >underneath especially if you have a dishwasher.
>
> The sink hole, ok, but I'm influenced by the other two posts to stay
> with the stuff they gave me.
>

If you do go with the stuff they gave when you are all done run masking
tape down either side of the joint about an 1/8" to either side. Then
run a bead of clear silicone and force it into the joint with a putty
knife. Pull up the tape and wipe with vinegar.

You are bound to have at least one spot that isn't sealed completely
and a little bit of water goes a long way in destroying a countertop.

When I put in self-rimming sinks I load up on the silicone also. It is
a PITA cleaning up the squeeze out but a lot better than water swelling
your counter.


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