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heat gun and lead paint bbcrock 02-27-2008
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Posted by on February 27, 2008, 4:45 pm
I am thinking about purchasing a heat gun to handle old paint in my
house. I tested the paint, which I presumed for years was lead-based
(and sealed under layers of modern paint, but the test came clean. I
am no fool and there has to be SOME lead paint in my house though. I
am thinking about purchasing a heat gun and was told by a friend that
if I keep the heat at 450 degrees then I probably wouldn't have
problems with it.

I have seen walls and molding with 5-7 layers of paint. Chemical
peels were a total disaster. They never worked more than 90% of the
time.

I have, basically 12-18 window and door frames to repaint, a
staircase, a mantle, and 3 full rooms.

What's your advice on this one? Brand recommendations?

PexSupply Full Banner
Posted by Richard J Kinch on February 27, 2008, 5:10 pm
> What's your advice on this one?

The vapor pressure (and thus the hazard) of lead at 450 deg F is close to
zero.

However, wholesale removal of paint with an electric heat gun is like
painting with a toothbrush: painstakingly slow. They just don't produce
much heat and little of what they do produce is transferred usefully to the
work.

Posted by John Grabowski on February 27, 2008, 6:25 pm

>I am thinking about purchasing a heat gun to handle old paint in my
> house. I tested the paint, which I presumed for years was lead-based
> (and sealed under layers of modern paint, but the test came clean. I
> am no fool and there has to be SOME lead paint in my house though. I
> am thinking about purchasing a heat gun and was told by a friend that
> if I keep the heat at 450 degrees then I probably wouldn't have
> problems with it.
>
> I have seen walls and molding with 5-7 layers of paint. Chemical
> peels were a total disaster. They never worked more than 90% of the
> time.
>
> I have, basically 12-18 window and door frames to repaint, a
> staircase, a mantle, and 3 full rooms.
>
> What's your advice on this one? Brand recommendations?


The best stripper that I ever used was called Peel Away and in one
application it removed decades of paint layers down to the bare wood. It is
non-toxic and prevents the release of lead into the air. A painter
recommended it to me several years ago. The stuff is a paste and is covered
with a plastic sheet that is included and you just let it sit overnight and
peel away the paint layers the next day. With many layers some scraping may
be required. There was some areas that needed to be cleaned off with water
and a scouring pad, but it did a fabulous job for me. Much better than any
petroleum based product that I have used in the past.


Posted by mm on February 28, 2008, 8:35 pm
On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 18:25:37 -0500, "John Grabowski"

>
>The best stripper that I ever used was called Peel Away and in one
>application it removed decades of paint layers down to the bare wood. It is
>non-toxic and prevents the release of lead into the air. A painter
>recommended it to me several years ago. The stuff is a paste and is covered
>with a plastic sheet that is included and you just let it sit overnight and
>peel away the paint layers the next day. With many layers some scraping may
>be required. There was some areas that needed to be cleaned off with water
>and a scouring pad, but it did a fabulous job for me. Much better than any
>petroleum based product that I have used in the past.

I suppose for the parts that need a scouring pad, the OP could try a
heat gun. Then he would know firsthand how well it worked, and be
grateful he hadn't tried to do the whole project with it.

Posted by hallerb@aol.com on February 28, 2008, 8:58 pm
> On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 18:25:37 -0500, "John Grabowski"
>
>
> >The best stripper that I ever used was called Peel Away and in one
> >application it removed decades of paint layers down to the bare wood. =EF=
=BF=BDIt is
> >non-toxic and prevents the release of lead into the air. =EF=BF=BDA paint=
er
> >recommended it to me several years ago. =EF=BF=BDThe stuff is a paste and=
is covered
> >with a plastic sheet that is included and you just let it sit overnight a=
nd
> >peel away the paint layers the next day. =EF=BF=BDWith many layers some s=
craping may
> >be required. =EF=BF=BDThere was some areas that needed to be cleaned off =
with water
> >and a scouring pad, but it did a fabulous job for me. Much better than an=
y
> >petroleum based product that I have used in the past.
>
> I suppose for the parts that need a scouring pad, the OP could try a
> heat gun. =EF=BF=BDThen he would know firsthand how well it worked, and be=

> grateful he hadn't tried to do the whole project with it.

harbor freight has cheap heat guns, i use one of theirs infrequently
at work. at least good enough quality for testing

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