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how do I get my 13amp Black & Decker circular saw to work?

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how do I get my 13amp Black & Decker circular saw to work? Joe 05-19-2007
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Posted by Joe on May 19, 2007, 10:23 am
I won this circular saw through a work contest and tried to use it the
other day and found it very difficult to cut through a 2x4. It's brand
new so I was wondering if I wasn't using it correctly. I let it warm
up to full speed then no matter how slow I proceed the blame stops
when it cuts through a small part of the wood. Is there something
that needs to be adjusted or did I get a dud?

Here's a link to the product

http://tinyurl.com/2qfa34


Posted by John McGaw on May 19, 2007, 10:31 am
Joe wrote:
> I won this circular saw through a work contest and tried to use it the
> other day and found it very difficult to cut through a 2x4. It's brand
> new so I was wondering if I wasn't using it correctly. I let it warm
> up to full speed then no matter how slow I proceed the blame stops
> when it cuts through a small part of the wood. Is there something
> that needs to be adjusted or did I get a dud?
>
> Here's a link to the product
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2qfa34
>

I take it you have no experience with circular saws so I'll give two
very basic questions/suggestions. First, is the blade installed in the
correct direction? The teeth should be facing the base plate in the
front of the saw. When the "blame stops" does the motor continue to run?
If so the blade bolt on the arbor is not tight enough.

--
John McGaw
[Knoxville, TN, USA]
http://johnmcgaw.com

Posted by Jeff Wisnia on May 19, 2007, 12:24 pm
John McGaw wrote:
> Joe wrote:
>
>> I won this circular saw through a work contest and tried to use it the
>> other day and found it very difficult to cut through a 2x4. It's brand
>> new so I was wondering if I wasn't using it correctly. I let it warm
>> up to full speed then no matter how slow I proceed the blame stops
>> when it cuts through a small part of the wood. Is there something
>> that needs to be adjusted or did I get a dud?
>>
>> Here's a link to the product
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/2qfa34
>>
>
> I take it you have no experience with circular saws so I'll give two
> very basic questions/suggestions. First, is the blade installed in the
> correct direction? The teeth should be facing the base plate in the
> front of the saw.

Uh, it might have been more helpful to say the teeth should be facing
the BOTTOM of the base plate at the front of the saw, huh? <G>

When the "blame stops" does the motor continue to run?
> If so the blade bolt on the arbor is not tight enough.
>
Good point, I probably wouldn't have thought to ask that one. And I
couldn't help thinking of Prez Truman when I read the "blame stops" (here)?

If the OP is that unfamiliar, I'll add that unless time is of the
essence, I always hold the saw where it's at after I release the trigger
until the motor winds down to a stop before moving it elsewhere. It just
seems safer to me that way.

Jeff (Waiting to see if the OP tells us what he found wrong...)

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.

Posted by mm on May 19, 2007, 2:45 pm
On Sat, 19 May 2007 12:24:35 -0400, Jeff Wisnia

>John McGaw wrote:
>> Joe wrote:
>>
>>> I won this circular saw through a work contest and tried to use it the
>>> other day and found it very difficult to cut through a 2x4. It's brand
>>> new so I was wondering if I wasn't using it correctly. I let it warm
>>> up to full speed then no matter how slow I proceed the blame stops
>>> when it cuts through a small part of the wood. Is there something
>>> that needs to be adjusted or did I get a dud?
>>>
>>> Here's a link to the product
>>>
>>> http://tinyurl.com/2qfa34
>>>
>>
>> I take it you have no experience with circular saws so I'll give two
>> very basic questions/suggestions. First, is the blade installed in the
>> correct direction? The teeth should be facing the base plate in the
>> front of the saw.
>
>Uh, it might have been more helpful to say the teeth should be facing
>the BOTTOM of the base plate at the front of the saw, huh? <G>

I think Bob F said it even better. When I read the above, I thought
to myself, Hey, when it faces the face plate, it faces both the top
and bottom of the face plate. :) Maybe that's just me.

Now if the face plate were facing the blade's teeth, only one side of
the face plate would be facing them.

I think Truman's sign said The buck stops here, and he was probably
referring to a sawbuck, or a 10 dollar bill. He may have collected
them as a hobby. At least that's what those who mess up on their jobs
and quote him mean when they say it.


I'm curious what the saw sounds like at full speed. Has the OP heard
enough saws to know if sounds right?

>When the "blame stops" does the motor continue to run?
>> If so the blade bolt on the arbor is not tight enough.
>>
>Good point, I probably wouldn't have thought to ask that one. And I
>couldn't help thinking of Prez Truman when I read the "blame stops" (here)?
>
>If the OP is that unfamiliar, I'll add that unless time is of the
>essence, I always hold the saw where it's at after I release the trigger
>until the motor winds down to a stop before moving it elsewhere. It just
>seems safer to me that way.
>
>Jeff (Waiting to see if the OP tells us what he found wrong...)


Posted by Jeff Wisnia on May 19, 2007, 4:28 pm
mm wrote:

>
> I think Truman's sign said The buck stops here, and he was probably
> referring to a sawbuck, or a 10 dollar bill. He may have collected
> them as a hobby. At least that's what those who mess up on their jobs
> and quote him mean when they say it.
>

Not quite, I remembered it differently as referring to a game of poker,
and just verified it through my friend Google:

The saying "the buck stops here" derives from the slang expression "pass
the buck" which means passing the responsibility on to someone else. The
latter expression is said to have originated with the game of poker, in
which a marker or counter, frequently in frontier days a knife with a
buckhorn handle, was used to indicate the person whose turn it was to
deal. If the player did not wish to deal he could pass the
responsibility by passing the "buck," as the counter came to be called,
to the next player.*

The 10 dollar bill "sawbuck" thing came from (I think I'm right") the
Roman numeral for 10 (X) looking like one end of a sawbuck, that wooden
thing you'd rest a log in while sawing it. So, a $20 bill was came to be
called a "double sawbuck", (XX).

I'm not a currency collector, so I can't say whether the X and XX were
ever printed on the reverse of tens and twentys. maybe Someone here knows?

Anyway it seems the OP's problem was just a "loose disconnection"
between the blade and its arbor. <G>

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.

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