If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by Nate Nagel on September 22, 2007, 9:37 pm
Doug Miller wrote:
>
>
>>You need to use 12-3 or 14-3 (depending weather it's a 15 or 20 amp circuit)
>>cable to make it work.
>>
>>Hook up the 3 conductor cable in your fusebox, white wire in the neutral
>>buss, black wire on the breaker, and cap the red wire with a wire nut.
>
>
> Nope.
>
> Run a 2-conductor cable from the breaker box to the first fixture box, then
> 3-conductor cables between each fixture box,
I agree to this point
> and finally a 2-conductor cable
> from the last fixture box to the switch box.
>
but I'd still pull a 3-conductor cable to the switch box, that way if he
decides to add a receptacle later on he can do it from either there or a
ceiling box.
nate
>
>
>>Run
>>the cable from the fusebox, and through all your fixtures connecting the red
>>wire (switched hot) to the black wire in the fixture. Connect the white
>>wire to white, and applicable grounding wires. Leave the black wire
>>continuous through the fixtures. You may need to pigtail some connections
>>in the fixtures.
>>
>>Once you've made it to the switch, connect the ground, and cap the neutral.
>>Connect the black wire to one side of the switch and red wire to the other.
>>Put in your light bulbs, flip the breaker and you're in business.
>>
>
>
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
|
|
Posted by J.A. Michel on September 23, 2007, 9:55 am
>
>>You need to use 12-3 or 14-3 (depending weather it's a 15 or 20 amp
>>circuit)
>>cable to make it work.
>>
>>Hook up the 3 conductor cable in your fusebox, white wire in the neutral
>>buss, black wire on the breaker, and cap the red wire with a wire nut.
>
> Nope.
>
> Run a 2-conductor cable from the breaker box to the first fixture box,
> then
> 3-conductor cables between each fixture box, and finally a 2-conductor
> cable
> from the last fixture box to the switch box.
>
>
>> Run
>>the cable from the fusebox, and through all your fixtures connecting the
>>red
>>wire (switched hot) to the black wire in the fixture. Connect the white
>>wire to white, and applicable grounding wires. Leave the black wire
>>continuous through the fixtures. You may need to pigtail some connections
>>in the fixtures.
>>
>>Once you've made it to the switch, connect the ground, and cap the
>>neutral.
>>Connect the black wire to one side of the switch and red wire to the
>>other.
>>Put in your light bulbs, flip the breaker and you're in business.
>>
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Never thought of doing it that way. Thanks for the correction.
|
|
Posted by Steve Barker LT on September 22, 2007, 9:29 pm
to do exactly as you've drawn out, you need 12/3 cable from the first
fixture all the way to the last fixture, then 12/2 to the switch. Take the
black all the way to the switch, then bring the power back from the switch
on the white, and tie it to the red in the last fixture (and the light) then
continue back to the first fixture with the red being your switched hot.
s
> Hello,
>
> I am trying to wire new lights in my basement and I'm having some
> difficulties. The layout is as follows: circuit power ==> light #1 ==>
> light #2 ==> light #3 ==> light #4 ==> switch (controls all). The
> lights are all fluorescents and everything is new.
>
> To wire the lights, I ran the hot (black) from the circuit *through*
> all light fixture housings. That is, the hot line is not connected to
> the light fixture wires at all. It is simply wire nutted to the next
> fixture. The neutral from the power circuit is connected to the white
> wire of the light fixture. Then the black wire of the fixture is
> connected to the white wire of the next fixture, and so on.
> Ultimately, a hot/neutral pair ends at a switch. This setup doesn't
> work.
>
> The switch does have power (which means my hot wires are ok). When i
> place a tester across the switch when it's in the OFF position, my
> tester lights up. When I turn the switch on, the tester light goes
> out. In the OFF position, hot to ground lights up, and in the on
> position, both hot and neutral to ground light up.
>
> The circuit hasn't tripped nor has my house caught fire. :D What am I
> doing wrong?
>
> Thanks,
> - Roberto
>
|
|
Posted by on September 22, 2007, 10:14 pm
On Sat, 22 Sep 2007 20:29:38 -0500, "Steve Barker LT"
>to do exactly as you've drawn out, you need 12/3 cable from the first
>fixture all the way to the last fixture, then 12/2 to the switch. Take the
>black all the way to the switch, then bring the power back from the switch
>on the white, and tie it to the red in the last fixture (and the light) then
>continue back to the first fixture with the red being your switched hot.
>
>
The only thing I would change with this advice is you are supposed to
take the hot to the switch on the white and return on the black. You
should still remark the white but by using the black for the switched
leg you present the lamp holder with a white neutral and a (switched)
black so the wires will match up.
200.7(C)(2) Where a cable assembly contains an insulated conductor
for single-pole, 3-way or 4-way switch loops and the conductor with
white or gray insulation or a marking of three continuous white
stripes is used for the supply to the switch but not as a return
conductor from the switch to the switched outlet. In these
applications, the conductor with white or gray insulation or with
three continuous white stripes shall be permanently reidentified to
indicate its use by painting or other effective means at its
terminations and at each location where the conductor is visible and
accessible.
|
|
Posted by terry on September 23, 2007, 12:15 pm
> Hello,
>
> I am trying to wire new lights in my basement and I'm having some
> difficulties. The layout is as follows: circuit power ==> light #1 ==>
> light #2 ==> light #3 ==> light #4 ==> switch (controls all). The
> lights are all fluorescents and everything is new.
>
> To wire the lights, I ran the hot (black) from the circuit *through*
> all light fixture housings. That is, the hot line is not connected to
> the light fixture wires at all. It is simply wire nutted to the next
> fixture. The neutral from the power circuit is connected to the white
> wire of the light fixture. Then the black wire of the fixture is
> connected to the white wire of the next fixture, and so on.
> Ultimately, a hot/neutral pair ends at a switch. This setup doesn't
> work.
>
> The switch does have power (which means my hot wires are ok). When i
> place a tester across the switch when it's in the OFF position, my
> tester lights up. When I turn the switch on, the tester light goes
> out. In the OFF position, hot to ground lights up, and in the on
> position, both hot and neutral to ground light up.
>
> The circuit hasn't tripped nor has my house caught fire. :D What am I
> doing wrong?
>
> Thanks,
> - Roberto
Roberto: To try and make this simple.
We have wired exactly the same set up.
A continuous string of (fluorescent) lights along the ceiling.
The only switch is next to door beyond the far end.
Solution. We connected the neutral white wire from the supply circuit
breaker through and to each fixture. It stops at the last fixture and
does not go further.
(BTW a neutral is continuous and never switched. In North American
domestic wiring anyway).
Also connected the ground wire through and to each fixture frame and
metal ceiling boxes and to the metal box containing the wall switch in
an approved manner.
We also ran a black wire from the supply from the starting point of
the fixtures all the way through to the switch at the far end, without
connecting to anything on the way. (In our case this third wire does
in fact go physically through the fixtures because that was most
convenient, but does not connect to any of them. It is the live wire
from the fuse/circuit breaker that 'carries' the voltage to the
switch at the far end). That live black wire connects to one side of
the wall switch.
When and only when the switch is on a red wire (often called a
switched live) carries the voltage back up from the other side of the
switch to the fixtures and connects to all the black leads of the
lights back along the string.
In other words the live supply goes all the way to the switch; when
the switch is on the live voltage is extended back to 'all' of the
fixtures that are to controlled by that switch.
It will be found that when a switch is at the far end at least three
wires are required (plus grounding).
Ground to everything metal.
White neutral to all light fixtures.
Black live to the input side of the switch.
Red or suitably marked other colour (depending on code requirements
your area) from other side of switch back to the light fixtures where
it connects to 'all' the black leads of the fixtures.
Any help? Terry.
|
Page 3 of 3 << first < 1 2 3
| Similar Threads | Posted | | How do I combine lights on single pole switch with lights on 3-way switch? | April 24, 2008, 12:54 pm |
| Multiple lights, same circuit | June 27, 2008, 7:32 pm |
| Light dimmer switch; can failure just cause lack of bright lights? | November 6, 2007, 6:33 pm |
| How to wire a switch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! | December 10, 2005, 9:11 am |
| how to wire a light switch | April 1, 2006, 3:04 am |
| How to wire 2 12V Hologens in Wall Unit with a switch | January 6, 2007, 3:51 pm |
| Does the read and white wire go together on a light switch? | January 13, 2007, 11:41 pm |
| How to wire up a RS-150BA-N Vacancy Sensor Switch with Nightlight and Manual On/Off | October 4, 2007, 1:27 am |
| multiple roofs | November 1, 2005, 1:25 pm |
| Multiple switches: which one's out? | March 13, 2006, 10:23 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap