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Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
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Posted by on December 1, 2006, 6:45 pm
hello all,
hoping somebody may know a trick or two or a workaround to
my problem.
renovating an older house (20's or 30's craftsman type). the
door walls are studs, wrapped with 12" lap boards. we have
put up sheetrock on top of that.
since the original was stud, lap boards and wallpaper; now
i have about 1/2 inch (each side) to make up. i will add an
inch to the door frame to make up for the difference.
the problem is two of the three hinge screws ended up right at
the join of the interior door frames and their casing. hollow
core new doors would not be a problem. however the original
wood doors are heavy solid yellow pine doors.
butting up the sheetrock to the casing would be a problem,
since it is a pier and beam. any movement will separate
the join between the casing and the sheetrock.
i don't want to replace the casings (good old clear southern
yellow pine, stripped bare and ready for polyurethane). they are
all 3/4" thick and 5" wide.
thanks in advance for any input/idea.
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Posted by Goedjn on December 1, 2006, 7:20 pm
On 1 Dec 2006 15:45:19 -0800, a2rjh@altavista.net wrote:
>hello all,
>hoping somebody may know a trick or two or a workaround to
>my problem.
>renovating an older house (20's or 30's craftsman type). the
>door walls are studs, wrapped with 12" lap boards. we have
>put up sheetrock on top of that.
>since the original was stud, lap boards and wallpaper; now
>i have about 1/2 inch (each side) to make up. i will add an
>inch to the door frame to make up for the difference.
>the problem is two of the three hinge screws ended up right at
>the join of the interior door frames and their casing. hollow
>core new doors would not be a problem. however the original
>wood doors are heavy solid yellow pine doors.
>butting up the sheetrock to the casing would be a problem,
>since it is a pier and beam. any movement will separate
>the join between the casing and the sheetrock.
>i don't want to replace the casings (good old clear southern
>yellow pine, stripped bare and ready for polyurethane). they are
>all 3/4" thick and 5" wide.
>thanks in advance for any input/idea.
Find hinges with a different hole-pattern?
Or, if the ones you've got are unexceptional
and hidden, just drill new holes in them.
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Posted by RicodJour on December 1, 2006, 7:26 pm
a2rjh@altavista.net wrote:
> hello all,
> hoping somebody may know a trick or two or a workaround to
> my problem.
> renovating an older house (20's or 30's craftsman type). the
> door walls are studs, wrapped with 12" lap boards. we have
> put up sheetrock on top of that.
> since the original was stud, lap boards and wallpaper; now
> i have about 1/2 inch (each side) to make up. i will add an
> inch to the door frame to make up for the difference.
> the problem is two of the three hinge screws ended up right at
> the join of the interior door frames and their casing. hollow
> core new doors would not be a problem. however the original
> wood doors are heavy solid yellow pine doors.
> butting up the sheetrock to the casing would be a problem,
> since it is a pier and beam. any movement will separate
> the join between the casing and the sheetrock.
> i don't want to replace the casings (good old clear southern
> yellow pine, stripped bare and ready for polyurethane). they are
> all 3/4" thick and 5" wide.
http://www.hardwaresource.com/Store_ViewProducts.asp?Cat=86
R
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Posted by Oren on December 1, 2006, 8:35 pm
On 1 Dec 2006 15:45:19 -0800, a2rjh@altavista.net wrote:
>i don't want to replace the casings (good old clear southern
>yellow pine, stripped bare and ready for polyurethane). they are
>all 3/4" thick and 5" wide.
>thanks in advance for any input/idea.
You made me look up this link I saw recently. The guy recycles old
barns; etc. from Southern Pine.
A very nice floor....
http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/for/224196328.html
--
Oren
"My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland
and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore
excused from saving Universes."
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>hoping somebody may know a trick or two or a workaround to
>my problem.
>renovating an older house (20's or 30's craftsman type). the
>door walls are studs, wrapped with 12" lap boards. we have
>put up sheetrock on top of that.
>since the original was stud, lap boards and wallpaper; now
>i have about 1/2 inch (each side) to make up. i will add an
>inch to the door frame to make up for the difference.
>the problem is two of the three hinge screws ended up right at
>the join of the interior door frames and their casing. hollow
>core new doors would not be a problem. however the original
>wood doors are heavy solid yellow pine doors.
>butting up the sheetrock to the casing would be a problem,
>since it is a pier and beam. any movement will separate
>the join between the casing and the sheetrock.
>i don't want to replace the casings (good old clear southern
>yellow pine, stripped bare and ready for polyurethane). they are
>all 3/4" thick and 5" wide.
>thanks in advance for any input/idea.