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Posted by Cliff Hartle on July 1, 2006, 9:07 pm
> The trick will be to countersink the hinge in the door, since it wasn't
> pre-cut into the door, I guess the hinge location is too variable. Once
> the hinge is countersunk, or I can find a thinner hinge material the door
> will be a nice tight fit!
Hanging a door is a mid to advanced carpentry skill. Are you sure you're up
to it? Your use of the term "countersink" the hinges shows that you
probably haven't done this before.
You need to mortise the hinges into the door in the exact place they were in
the old door. You can only be off maybe an 1/32" or so. You can purchase a
jig for a router or use various other marking tools. If you don't use a
router you will have to use a hammer and chisel.
To cut the bottom of the door, you have to score it with a knife first so
you don't chip the surface. And of course you need to drill the holes for
the lockset and mortise the edge of the door for the latch. Also, you may
need to plane the edges so it will fit right (the latch side of the door is
generally beveled) and shim the hinges so the door doesn't bind.
Good luck
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Posted by Eigenvector on July 1, 2006, 9:36 pm
>> The trick will be to countersink the hinge in the door, since it wasn't
>> pre-cut into the door, I guess the hinge location is too variable. Once
>> the hinge is countersunk, or I can find a thinner hinge material the door
>> will be a nice tight fit!
> Hanging a door is a mid to advanced carpentry skill. Are you sure you're
> up to it? Your use of the term "countersink" the hinges shows that you
> probably haven't done this before.
> You need to mortise the hinges into the door in the exact place they were
> in the old door. You can only be off maybe an 1/32" or so. You can
> purchase a jig for a router or use various other marking tools. If you
> don't use a router you will have to use a hammer and chisel.
> To cut the bottom of the door, you have to score it with a knife first so
> you don't chip the surface. And of course you need to drill the holes for
> the lockset and mortise the edge of the door for the latch. Also, you may
> need to plane the edges so it will fit right (the latch side of the door
> is generally beveled) and shim the hinges so the door doesn't bind.
> Good luck
It's not as bad as all that. I have no illusions that my door will be a
little cockeyed the first go at it, but it only has to fill the doorframe
for now. The latchplate, doorknob holes were all pre-drilled, so that
eliminates a ton of the variables. The hinge plates are mounted in the
doorframe already, now it's just a matter of matching up the hinge plates
with proper position on the door then going at it with a chisel. I think I
can do the math so long as I keep it slow. All I have to do is line up the
latch.
Well we'll see how it goes, if it goes bad I'm only out 21 bucks (hollow
cores are cheap).
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Posted by Eigenvector on July 1, 2006, 10:35 pm
Well that wasn't so bad. The door closes, the latch engages, it isn't
totally cockeyed, and I have a new cat door to boot!
I'll definitely have to go over the bottom hinge when I have a bit more
time, I cut it too high and now I have to alter the inset for the frame.
The latch edge of the door is a bit too snug as well, so I'll shave that
too - but it ain't much, maybe a couple thou is all.
>>> The trick will be to countersink the hinge in the door, since it wasn't
>>> pre-cut into the door, I guess the hinge location is too variable. Once
>>> the hinge is countersunk, or I can find a thinner hinge material the
>>> door will be a nice tight fit!
>> Hanging a door is a mid to advanced carpentry skill. Are you sure you're
>> up to it? Your use of the term "countersink" the hinges shows that you
>> probably haven't done this before.
>> You need to mortise the hinges into the door in the exact place they were
>> in the old door. You can only be off maybe an 1/32" or so. You can
>> purchase a jig for a router or use various other marking tools. If you
>> don't use a router you will have to use a hammer and chisel.
>> To cut the bottom of the door, you have to score it with a knife first so
>> you don't chip the surface. And of course you need to drill the holes
>> for the lockset and mortise the edge of the door for the latch. Also,
>> you may need to plane the edges so it will fit right (the latch side of
>> the door is generally beveled) and shim the hinges so the door doesn't
>> bind.
>> Good luck
> It's not as bad as all that. I have no illusions that my door will be a
> little cockeyed the first go at it, but it only has to fill the doorframe
> for now. The latchplate, doorknob holes were all pre-drilled, so that
> eliminates a ton of the variables. The hinge plates are mounted in the
> doorframe already, now it's just a matter of matching up the hinge plates
> with proper position on the door then going at it with a chisel. I think
> I can do the math so long as I keep it slow. All I have to do is line up
> the latch.
> Well we'll see how it goes, if it goes bad I'm only out 21 bucks (hollow
> cores are cheap).
>
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Posted by celticsoc@aol.com on July 2, 2006, 11:36 am
Eigenvector wrote:
> > Its easy to trim a inch off the bottom, no doubt it was a carpet
> > issue....
> Yeah, I pulled the runner and found out the previous owner shimmed it ~3/4
> inch with some boards to make the door float above that atrocious shag
> carpet that was so popular in the 60's.
> I should be okay, there was nice Oak flooring under that carpet so I only
> need a thin runner to keep out the buggies and the draft from the garage.
> The trick will be to countersink the hinge in the door, since it wasn't
> pre-cut into the door, I guess the hinge location is too variable. Once the
> hinge is countersunk, or I can find a thinner hinge material the door will
> be a nice tight fit!
A couple things before you start changing hinges. First, its probably
best to keep the hinge location that you had, since the door frame may
be mortised (countersunk). If it isn't, you can get non-mortise hinges
(hinges that are made to be used without mortising). If you do use
mortise hinges, be careful that you don't go too deep, because the door
could bind. Also, make sure that your knob and strike line up.
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Posted by cas on July 1, 2006, 7:41 pm
Eric in North TX wrote:
> 6' 8" (80") is the standard for doors in the USA, my bet is that yours
> was cut down. doors would be more outrageously priced than they are if
> there wasn't some standard.
Yeah, I'm trying to replace the entry doors in my home and they're all
84" doors. Try finding those at a local store.
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> pre-cut into the door, I guess the hinge location is too variable. Once
> the hinge is countersunk, or I can find a thinner hinge material the door
> will be a nice tight fit!