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Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
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Posted by Art on June 12, 2006, 10:36 pm
Also don't buy those plastic friction fit dryer duct connectors. They fail
in a few months.
> The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
> second
> failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
> connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
> would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
> causing a problem.
>
> (Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
> used to repair my
> down jackets with it :-)
>
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Posted by BobK207 on June 12, 2006, 11:35 pm
werwer wrote:
> The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
> second
> failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
> connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
> would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
> causing a problem.
>
> (Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
> used to repair my
> down jackets with it :-)
My suggestion is get the duct work situated where all the connections
are happy.
Tape the joints with aluminum tape, use the type that comes with peel
off backing, it's the best.
If the ducting setup is uncooperative you can use some screws on
temporary basis & then remove them & tape over holes when done.
I've have some aluminum tape installations that are 20+ years old &
still sound.
btw the AL tape isn't really all that much more expensive than duct
tape.
cheers
Bob
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Posted by RicodJour on June 13, 2006, 10:01 am
BobK207 wrote:
>
> I've have some aluminum tape installations that are 20+ years old &
> still sound.
>
> btw the AL tape isn't really all that much more expensive than duct
> tape.
The foil tape roll itself is about the same price, but it's only about
1/6 as long. Six times the price.
R
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Posted by BobK207 on June 13, 2006, 6:49 pm
RicodJour wrote:
> BobK207 wrote:
> >
> > I've have some aluminum tape installations that are 20+ years old &
> > still sound.
> >
> > btw the AL tape isn't really all that much more expensive than duct
> > tape.
>
> The foil tape roll itself is about the same price, but it's only about
> 1/6 as long. Six times the price.
>
> R
The foil tape roll itself is about the same price, but it's only about
1/6 as long. Six times the price
I'll be checking on that.......1/6 as long would make it only a 10 yard
roll.........I'm way too cheap to pay $8 for 10 yards
The last roll of Al tape I got was in the 7 to $8 range & I recall it
was pretty long. I'm not going to unroll it even though I'm tempted
to.
I know they had a "short roll" about 10 yards but I opted for the long
roll, it was a much better value.
The cheap duct tape is in the $3 range but the better stuff is $10 & up
for 60 yards.
I don't think the price ratio is 6:1, I'm thinking it's more like 2:1
or less.
Just my experience
I still wouldn't use even the best duct tape even if it was free!
cheers
Bob
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Posted by on June 13, 2006, 7:16 am
werwer wrote:
> The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
> second
> failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
> connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
> would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
> causing a problem.
>
> (Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
> used to repair my
> down jackets with it :-)
go to a heating and air conditioning supply house and buy your tape
from there.... it will be of better quality than walmart or home cheapo
tape.....
or you could use cheap tape but first spray the joint you want
connected with some spray adhesive....
or use a big metal hose clamp......
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