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metal screws?, replacement for today's crap duc tape?

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metal screws?, replacement for today's crap duc tape? werwer 06-12-2006
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Posted by RicodJour on June 12, 2006, 9:31 pm
werwer wrote:
> The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
> second
> failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
> connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
> would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
> causing a problem.

You are not supposed to use screws for the reason you mentioned. Duct
tape isn't used for ducts - it doesn't last. Buy a roll of the
aluminum foil tape - it's stronger, has better adhesive and it lasts.
http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.com/50-279-foil-and-hvac-tape/aluminum-foil-tape-280313.aspx
The big box store carries the stuff as will most hardware stores.

R


PexSupply Full Banner
Posted by Noozer on June 12, 2006, 10:26 pm

> The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
> second failure downstairs on the dryer

Try using the PROPER tape... DUC tape is *NOT* duct tape...

Use aluminum DUCT tape.
>, ... has anyone use machine screws to
> connect light AL exhaust ducting?

They will collect crap and should be avoided if possible.



Posted by Art on June 12, 2006, 10:35 pm
Use the round clamps they sell. Note that the Whirlpool dryers and Kenmores
made by whirpool have a very short snout to attach the clamp to but it is
possible to do it securely if you locate the locking screw mechanism to the
bottom of the duct. Why whirlpool uses such a short pipe is beyond me.
Maytag gives you several inches to attach the duct to.


> The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
> second
> failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
> connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
> would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
> causing a problem.
>
> (Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
> used to repair my
> down jackets with it :-)
>



Posted by Noozer on June 12, 2006, 11:19 pm

> Use the round clamps they sell. Note that the Whirlpool dryers and
> Kenmores made by whirpool have a very short snout to attach the clamp to
> but it is possible to do it securely if you locate the locking screw
> mechanism to the bottom of the duct. Why whirlpool uses such a short
> pipe is beyond me. Maytag gives you several inches to attach the duct to.

The way that most dryers hook up is a pain in the @$$... Trying to line up a
pipe behind the dryer with the one in the was is difficult.

I don't see why someone can't invent another method.

I've seen some dryers where you can move the output to the side instead of
the rear. Still not the best method, but easier to hook up.



Posted by Ari Shaffir Fan on June 13, 2006, 6:20 pm

>
>> Use the round clamps they sell. Note that the Whirlpool dryers and
>> Kenmores made by whirpool have a very short snout to attach the clamp to
>> but it is possible to do it securely if you locate the locking screw
>> mechanism to the bottom of the duct. Why whirlpool uses such a short
>> pipe is beyond me. Maytag gives you several inches to attach the duct to.
>
>The way that most dryers hook up is a pain in the @$$... Trying to line up a
>pipe behind the dryer with the one in the was is difficult.
>
>I don't see why someone can't invent another method.
>
>I've seen some dryers where you can move the output to the side instead of
>the rear. Still not the best method, but easier to hook up.

Reading your post reminded me that I had come across a product that
purports to solve this problem:

http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=48&nPrdImageID=&CatID=10

I haven't tried it myself.

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