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Posted by Joe on November 3, 2009, 12:17 am
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> There is one other possibility which might be easy but ugly-I could
> run the pipes above the floor, along the inside of the outside wall
> (this would be behind the toilet) and then under the tub to its
> faucet, but this would leave about 2' of pipe just dangling out
> there. =A0This doesnt bother me but it might bother a potential buyer...
> ---------------------
> Based on everything else you have written so far, I think you should
> probably just go ahead and do that. =A0It seems like you really want the =
pipes
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> on the inside and accessible, and that would solve both of those issues. =
=A0A
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> pipe along the wall, near the floor, behind the toilet seems like nothing=
to
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> me. =A0You could paint the pipe(s) the same color as the wall or baseboar=
d and
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> it will look fine. =A0You said, "under the tub" -- do you mean under an
> old-fashioned claw foot type of tub?
No, its a regular recessed tub. I would have to drill a hole in the
dividing wall at one end, then run the pipes under it to the faucet at
the far side.
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> As far as buyers, I doubt that 2 feet of pipe going along the wall near t=
> floor behind the toilet is going to make or break a sale. =A0And, since t=
> temp goes down to 40 below in your area, some buyers may like the idea th=
> the pipe will be inside and accessibole for the same reasons that you do.
> And, if you are really concerned about buyers, you really need to figure =
out
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> a way to get rid of the mice and rodent droppings that are infesting the
> area that you don't want to go into. =A0A home inspector will find that h=
uge
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> (in my opinion) problem if that area has an access door where he/she can
> enter or look into the space.
> Good luck.
The rodent area is only visible now because I knocked a section of
drywall out to get at the pipes. Its going to get sealed up again.
As for heating that area as was suggested above, I dont think that is
desirable. It would lead to roof melting and ice dams...more problems.
The area wasnt meant to be heated.
I think I will probably try to run the pipes through the room and
under the tub and see how it goes. If it doesnt work for some reason
it will only be a small patch.
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Posted by Joe on October 31, 2009, 3:33 pm
wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> > Joe wrote:
> > > I am trying to reroute my upstairs bathroom pipes away from the
> > > exterior wall (actually an enclosed space behind a kneewall).
> > > They currently run in an inside (room dividing) wall until they hit
> > > the rear wall, behind which is the "crawlspace" open to the rafters
> > > and such. The pipes froze once back there, and its a horrible place t=
> > > work in (mice love it) so I want the pipes out of there. Anyway they
> > > turn that corner and then branch in the "crawl space" to the toilet
> > > and bathtub. Below this bathroom and crawl space there is a false
> > > ceiling, that I would like to run the pipes through instead.
> > > But the only way to do that is to drop them straight down inside that
> > > interior wall until they clear the joists below, then running them
> > > under those joists above the false ceiling to where they need to go.
> > > Going through the joists would be preferable, but I cant see how it
> > > can be done-with 16" centers I dont see how to drill through them. Bu=
> > > the hardest part of all is just getting the pipes down to where I can
> > > see them and work with them. Directly below the wall they are in,
> > > there is an extension of that wall into the upper foot and half of th=
> > > lower level. This forms one "side" that the false ceiling is hung
> > > from. Its like they knocked out a wall and left just the upper
> > > portion. Does this make any sense? Its hard to describe. But I just
> > > cant see how I can get the pipes down through that so they are below
> > > joist level, without demolishing part of that wall so I can see wtf
> > > I'm doing. Any ideas? I'd sure like to avoid calling a plumber but I
> > > may have to...
> > Hi,
> > How about insulating the space/pipe with spray foam?- Hide quoted text =
> > - Show quoted text -
> Sounds like a lot cheaper and easier solution. =A0They even have
> extender poles so you can put a spray can at the end of a 4' pole and
> control it by your hand to reach into spaces that you can't get
> directly to. =A0Paint stores carry them, but anything that has a
> standard top will fit into these extender poles. =A0If you can get
> within 4' of where you need to spray the insulation, the foam in a can
> is great. =A0Don't get the super expanding foam though, as it really has
> a lot of force when it expands and it might bend/break/crack a wall.
I spose I should elaborate on the space...its the space formed by the
narrower second floor and having a steep pitched roof. The space is
quite large. The roof is insulated, but probably not insulated well
enough. Thats another problem but not one i can tackle at the moment.
If my heat goes out, any pipes in there are at risk of freezing
because its the coldest part of my house, even if they are extra
insulated. It goes to 40 below here and I dont think pipes in outside
walls are even legal, or at the very least not recommended...I do not
want another broken pipe....
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Posted by RicodJour on October 31, 2009, 3:41 pm
show/hide quoted text
> wrote:
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > > I am trying to reroute my upstairs bathroom pipes away from the
> > > > exterior wall (actually an enclosed space behind a kneewall).
> > > > They currently run in an inside (room dividing) wall until they hit
> > > > the rear wall, behind which is the "crawlspace" open to the rafters
> > > > and such. The pipes froze once back there, and its a horrible place=
to
show/hide quoted text
> > > > work in (mice love it) so I want the pipes out of there. Anyway the=
> > > > turn that corner and then branch in the "crawl space" to the toilet
> > > > and bathtub. Below this bathroom and crawl space there is a false
> > > > ceiling, that I would like to run the pipes through instead.
> > > > But the only way to do that is to drop them straight down inside th=
> > > > interior wall until they clear the joists below, then running them
> > > > under those joists above the false ceiling to where they need to go=
> > > > Going through the joists would be preferable, but I cant see how it
> > > > can be done-with 16" centers I dont see how to drill through them. =
But
show/hide quoted text
> > > > the hardest part of all is just getting the pipes down to where I c=
> > > > see them and work with them. Directly below the wall they are in,
> > > > there is an extension of that wall into the upper foot and half of =
the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > lower level. This forms one "side" that the false ceiling is hung
> > > > from. Its like they knocked out a wall and left just the upper
> > > > portion. Does this make any sense? Its hard to describe. But I just
> > > > cant see how I can get the pipes down through that so they are belo=
> > > > joist level, without demolishing part of that wall so I can see wtf
> > > > I'm doing. Any ideas? I'd sure like to avoid calling a plumber but =
> > > > may have to...
> > > Hi,
> > > How about insulating the space/pipe with spray foam?- Hide quoted tex=
t -
show/hide quoted text
> > > - Show quoted text -
> > Sounds like a lot cheaper and easier solution. =A0They even have
> > extender poles so you can put a spray can at the end of a 4' pole and
> > control it by your hand to reach into spaces that you can't get
> > directly to. =A0Paint stores carry them, but anything that has a
> > standard top will fit into these extender poles. =A0If you can get
> > within 4' of where you need to spray the insulation, the foam in a can
> > is great. =A0Don't get the super expanding foam though, as it really ha=
> > a lot of force when it expands and it might bend/break/crack a wall.
> I spose I should elaborate on the space...its the space formed by the
> narrower second floor and having a steep pitched roof. The space is
> quite large. The roof is insulated, but probably not insulated well
> enough. Thats another problem but not one i can tackle at the moment.
> If my heat goes out, any pipes in there are at risk of freezing
> because its the coldest part of my house, even if they are extra
> insulated. It goes to 40 below here and I dont think pipes in outside
> walls are even legal, or at the very least not recommended...I do not
> want another broken pipe....
Define pipe. If you are talking about copper, you might want to look
into PEX. If you have a run of PEX without any fittings it can freeze
without damaging it. The PEX plastic memory will return the tubing to
its original size, and it has more than enough stretchability to
accommodate freezing water. Of course you won't have water while the
pipe is frozen, but you also won't have burst pipe, flooding and
repair work.
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Posted by Joe on October 31, 2009, 4:00 pm
show/hide quoted text
> > wrote:
> > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > I am trying to reroute my upstairs bathroom pipes away from the
> > > > > exterior wall (actually an enclosed space behind a kneewall).
> > > > > They currently run in an inside (room dividing) wall until they h=
> > > > > the rear wall, behind which is the "crawlspace" open to the rafte=
> > > > > and such. The pipes froze once back there, and its a horrible pla=
ce to
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > work in (mice love it) so I want the pipes out of there. Anyway t=
hey
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > turn that corner and then branch in the "crawl space" to the toil=
> > > > > and bathtub. Below this bathroom and crawl space there is a false
> > > > > ceiling, that I would like to run the pipes through instead.
> > > > > But the only way to do that is to drop them straight down inside =
that
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > interior wall until they clear the joists below, then running the=
> > > > > under those joists above the false ceiling to where they need to =
go.
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > Going through the joists would be preferable, but I cant see how =
> > > > > can be done-with 16" centers I dont see how to drill through them=
. But
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > the hardest part of all is just getting the pipes down to where I=
can
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > see them and work with them. Directly below the wall they are in,
> > > > > there is an extension of that wall into the upper foot and half o=
f the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > lower level. This forms one "side" that the false ceiling is hung
> > > > > from. Its like they knocked out a wall and left just the upper
> > > > > portion. Does this make any sense? Its hard to describe. But I ju=
> > > > > cant see how I can get the pipes down through that so they are be=
low
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > joist level, without demolishing part of that wall so I can see w=
> > > > > I'm doing. Any ideas? I'd sure like to avoid calling a plumber bu=
t I
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > may have to...
> > > > Hi,
> > > > How about insulating the space/pipe with spray foam?- Hide quoted t=
ext -
show/hide quoted text
> > > > - Show quoted text -
> > > Sounds like a lot cheaper and easier solution. =A0They even have
> > > extender poles so you can put a spray can at the end of a 4' pole and
> > > control it by your hand to reach into spaces that you can't get
> > > directly to. =A0Paint stores carry them, but anything that has a
> > > standard top will fit into these extender poles. =A0If you can get
> > > within 4' of where you need to spray the insulation, the foam in a ca=
> > > is great. =A0Don't get the super expanding foam though, as it really =
has
show/hide quoted text
> > > a lot of force when it expands and it might bend/break/crack a wall.
> > I spose I should elaborate on the space...its the space formed by the
> > narrower second floor and having a steep pitched roof. The space is
> > quite large. The roof is insulated, but probably not insulated well
> > enough. Thats another problem but not one i can tackle at the moment.
> > If my heat goes out, any pipes in there are at risk of freezing
> > because its the coldest part of my house, even if they are extra
> > insulated. It goes to 40 below here and I dont think pipes in outside
> > walls are even legal, or at the very least not recommended...I do not
> > want another broken pipe....
> Define pipe. If you are talking about copper, you might want to look
> into PEX. =A0If you have a run of PEX without any fittings it can freeze
> without damaging it. =A0The PEX plastic memory will return the tubing to
> its original size, and it has more than enough stretchability to
> accommodate freezing water. =A0Of course you won't have water while the
> pipe is frozen, but you also won't have burst pipe, flooding and
> repair work.
> R
Well I was planning to use PVC for the reroute, but existing pipes are
copper.
Perhaps I havent emphasized this part enough: I really dont want to
work in that space. Its nasty nasty nasty from all the rodents that
have lived there for 3 years since this was built, and I have to
slither in on my belly. I really want to have the pipes go elsewhere
so I never ever (ever!) have to go in there again.
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|
Posted by Joe on October 31, 2009, 4:05 pm
show/hide quoted text
> > > wrote:
> > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > I am trying to reroute my upstairs bathroom pipes away from the
> > > > > > exterior wall (actually an enclosed space behind a kneewall).
> > > > > > They currently run in an inside (room dividing) wall until they=
hit
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > the rear wall, behind which is the "crawlspace" open to the raf=
ters
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > and such. The pipes froze once back there, and its a horrible p=
lace to
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > work in (mice love it) so I want the pipes out of there. Anyway=
they
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > turn that corner and then branch in the "crawl space" to the to=
ilet
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > and bathtub. Below this bathroom and crawl space there is a fal=
> > > > > > ceiling, that I would like to run the pipes through instead.
> > > > > > But the only way to do that is to drop them straight down insid=
e that
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > interior wall until they clear the joists below, then running t=
hem
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > under those joists above the false ceiling to where they need t=
o go.
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > Going through the joists would be preferable, but I cant see ho=
w it
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > can be done-with 16" centers I dont see how to drill through th=
em. But
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > the hardest part of all is just getting the pipes down to where=
I can
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > see them and work with them. Directly below the wall they are i=
> > > > > > there is an extension of that wall into the upper foot and half=
of the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > lower level. This forms one "side" that the false ceiling is hu=
> > > > > > from. Its like they knocked out a wall and left just the upper
> > > > > > portion. Does this make any sense? Its hard to describe. But I =
just
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > cant see how I can get the pipes down through that so they are =
below
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > joist level, without demolishing part of that wall so I can see=
wtf
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > I'm doing. Any ideas? I'd sure like to avoid calling a plumber =
but I
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > may have to...
> > > > > Hi,
> > > > > How about insulating the space/pipe with spray foam?- Hide quoted=
text -
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > - Show quoted text -
> > > > Sounds like a lot cheaper and easier solution. =A0They even have
> > > > extender poles so you can put a spray can at the end of a 4' pole a=
> > > > control it by your hand to reach into spaces that you can't get
> > > > directly to. =A0Paint stores carry them, but anything that has a
> > > > standard top will fit into these extender poles. =A0If you can get
> > > > within 4' of where you need to spray the insulation, the foam in a =
can
show/hide quoted text
> > > > is great. =A0Don't get the super expanding foam though, as it reall=
y has
show/hide quoted text
> > > > a lot of force when it expands and it might bend/break/crack a wall=
> > > I spose I should elaborate on the space...its the space formed by the
> > > narrower second floor and having a steep pitched roof. The space is
> > > quite large. The roof is insulated, but probably not insulated well
> > > enough. Thats another problem but not one i can tackle at the moment.
> > > If my heat goes out, any pipes in there are at risk of freezing
> > > because its the coldest part of my house, even if they are extra
> > > insulated. It goes to 40 below here and I dont think pipes in outside
> > > walls are even legal, or at the very least not recommended...I do not
> > > want another broken pipe....
> > Define pipe. If you are talking about copper, you might want to look
> > into PEX. =A0If you have a run of PEX without any fittings it can freez=
> > without damaging it. =A0The PEX plastic memory will return the tubing t=
> > its original size, and it has more than enough stretchability to
> > accommodate freezing water. =A0Of course you won't have water while the
> > pipe is frozen, but you also won't have burst pipe, flooding and
> > repair work.
> > R
> Well I was planning to use PVC for the reroute, but existing pipes are
> copper.
> Perhaps I havent emphasized this part enough: I really dont want to
> work in that space. Its nasty nasty nasty from all the rodents that
> have lived there for 3 years since this was built, and I have to
> slither in on my belly. I really want to have the pipes go elsewhere
> so I never ever (ever!) have to go in there again.
But having said that, if I were to run the pipes through there again
for lack of other practical options I could minimize my time in there
by running a long line of pex. In fact I might not have to go in any
farther than my head and shoulders. So that might work...
|
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> run the pipes above the floor, along the inside of the outside wall
> (this would be behind the toilet) and then under the tub to its
> faucet, but this would leave about 2' of pipe just dangling out
> there. =A0This doesnt bother me but it might bother a potential buyer...
> ---------------------
> Based on everything else you have written so far, I think you should
> probably just go ahead and do that. =A0It seems like you really want the =