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Posted by Joe on October 31, 2009, 4:05 pm
> > > wrote:
> > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > I am trying to reroute my upstairs bathroom pipes away from the
> > > > > > exterior wall (actually an enclosed space behind a kneewall).
> > > > > > They currently run in an inside (room dividing) wall until they=
hit
> > > > > > the rear wall, behind which is the "crawlspace" open to the raf=
ters
> > > > > > and such. The pipes froze once back there, and its a horrible p=
lace to
> > > > > > work in (mice love it) so I want the pipes out of there. Anyway=
they
> > > > > > turn that corner and then branch in the "crawl space" to the to=
ilet
> > > > > > and bathtub. Below this bathroom and crawl space there is a fal=
se
> > > > > > ceiling, that I would like to run the pipes through instead.
> > > > > > But the only way to do that is to drop them straight down insid=
e that
> > > > > > interior wall until they clear the joists below, then running t=
hem
> > > > > > under those joists above the false ceiling to where they need t=
o go.
> > > > > > Going through the joists would be preferable, but I cant see ho=
w it
> > > > > > can be done-with 16" centers I dont see how to drill through th=
em. But
> > > > > > the hardest part of all is just getting the pipes down to where=
I can
> > > > > > see them and work with them. Directly below the wall they are i=
n,
> > > > > > there is an extension of that wall into the upper foot and half=
of the
> > > > > > lower level. This forms one "side" that the false ceiling is hu=
ng
> > > > > > from. Its like they knocked out a wall and left just the upper
> > > > > > portion. Does this make any sense? Its hard to describe. But I =
just
> > > > > > cant see how I can get the pipes down through that so they are =
below
> > > > > > joist level, without demolishing part of that wall so I can see=
wtf
> > > > > > I'm doing. Any ideas? I'd sure like to avoid calling a plumber =
but I
> > > > > > may have to...
> > > > > Hi,
> > > > > How about insulating the space/pipe with spray foam?- Hide quoted=
text -
> > > > > - Show quoted text -
> > > > Sounds like a lot cheaper and easier solution. =A0They even have
> > > > extender poles so you can put a spray can at the end of a 4' pole a=
nd
> > > > control it by your hand to reach into spaces that you can't get
> > > > directly to. =A0Paint stores carry them, but anything that has a
> > > > standard top will fit into these extender poles. =A0If you can get
> > > > within 4' of where you need to spray the insulation, the foam in a =
can
> > > > is great. =A0Don't get the super expanding foam though, as it reall=
y has
> > > > a lot of force when it expands and it might bend/break/crack a wall=
.
> > > I spose I should elaborate on the space...its the space formed by the
> > > narrower second floor and having a steep pitched roof. The space is
> > > quite large. The roof is insulated, but probably not insulated well
> > > enough. Thats another problem but not one i can tackle at the moment.
> > > If my heat goes out, any pipes in there are at risk of freezing
> > > because its the coldest part of my house, even if they are extra
> > > insulated. It goes to 40 below here and I dont think pipes in outside
> > > walls are even legal, or at the very least not recommended...I do not
> > > want another broken pipe....
> > Define pipe. If you are talking about copper, you might want to look
> > into PEX. =A0If you have a run of PEX without any fittings it can freez=
e
> > without damaging it. =A0The PEX plastic memory will return the tubing t=
o
> > its original size, and it has more than enough stretchability to
> > accommodate freezing water. =A0Of course you won't have water while the
> > pipe is frozen, but you also won't have burst pipe, flooding and
> > repair work.
> > R
> Well I was planning to use PVC for the reroute, but existing pipes are
> copper.
> Perhaps I havent emphasized this part enough: I really dont want to
> work in that space. Its nasty nasty nasty from all the rodents that
> have lived there for 3 years since this was built, and I have to
> slither in on my belly. I really want to have the pipes go elsewhere
> so I never ever (ever!) have to go in there again.
But having said that, if I were to run the pipes through there again
for lack of other practical options I could minimize my time in there
by running a long line of pex. In fact I might not have to go in any
farther than my head and shoulders. So that might work...
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> run the pipes above the floor, along the inside of the outside wall
> (this would be behind the toilet) and then under the tub to its
> faucet, but this would leave about 2' of pipe just dangling out
> there. =A0This doesnt bother me but it might bother a potential buyer...
> ---------------------
> Based on everything else you have written so far, I think you should
> probably just go ahead and do that. =A0It seems like you really want the =