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plumbing reroute Joe 10-31-2009
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Posted by RicodJour on October 31, 2009, 5:11 pm


> > > > On Oct 31, 12:52=A0pm, "hr(bob) hofm...@att.net" <hrhofm...@att.net=
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > I am trying to reroute my upstairs bathroom pipes away from t=
he
> > > > > > > exterior wall (actually an enclosed space behind a kneewall).
> > > > > > > They currently run in an inside (room dividing) wall until th=
ey hit
> > > > > > > the rear wall, behind which is the "crawlspace" open to the r=
afters
> > > > > > > and such. The pipes froze once back there, and its a horrible=
place to
> > > > > > > work in (mice love it) so I want the pipes out of there. Anyw=
ay they
> > > > > > > turn that corner and then branch in the "crawl space" to the =
toilet
> > > > > > > and bathtub. Below this bathroom and crawl space there is a f=
alse
> > > > > > > ceiling, that I would like to run the pipes through instead.
> > > > > > > But the only way to do that is to drop them straight down ins=
ide that
> > > > > > > interior wall until they clear the joists below, then running=
them
> > > > > > > under those joists above the false ceiling to where they need=
to go.
> > > > > > > Going through the joists would be preferable, but I cant see =
how it
> > > > > > > can be done-with 16" centers I dont see how to drill through =
them. But
> > > > > > > the hardest part of all is just getting the pipes down to whe=
re I can
> > > > > > > see them and work with them. Directly below the wall they are=
in,
> > > > > > > there is an extension of that wall into the upper foot and ha=
lf of the
> > > > > > > lower level. This forms one "side" that the false ceiling is =
hung
> > > > > > > from. Its like they knocked out a wall and left just the uppe=
r
> > > > > > > portion. Does this make any sense? Its hard to describe. But =
I just
> > > > > > > cant see how I can get the pipes down through that so they ar=
e below
> > > > > > > joist level, without demolishing part of that wall so I can s=
ee wtf
> > > > > > > I'm doing. Any ideas? I'd sure like to avoid calling a plumbe=
r but I
> > > > > > > may have to...
> > > > > > Hi,
> > > > > > How about insulating the space/pipe with spray foam?- Hide quot=
ed text -
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
> > > > > Sounds like a lot cheaper and easier solution. =A0They even have
> > > > > extender poles so you can put a spray can at the end of a 4' pole=
and
> > > > > control it by your hand to reach into spaces that you can't get
> > > > > directly to. =A0Paint stores carry them, but anything that has a
> > > > > standard top will fit into these extender poles. =A0If you can ge=
t
> > > > > within 4' of where you need to spray the insulation, the foam in =
a can
> > > > > is great. =A0Don't get the super expanding foam though, as it rea=
lly has
> > > > > a lot of force when it expands and it might bend/break/crack a wa=
ll.
> > > > I spose I should elaborate on the space...its the space formed by t=
he
> > > > narrower second floor and having a steep pitched roof. The space is
> > > > quite large. The roof is insulated, but probably not insulated well
> > > > enough. Thats another problem but not one i can tackle at the momen=
t.
> > > > If my heat goes out, any pipes in there are at risk of freezing
> > > > because its the coldest part of my house, even if they are extra
> > > > insulated. It goes to 40 below here and I dont think pipes in outsi=
de
> > > > walls are even legal, or at the very least not recommended...I do n=
ot
> > > > want another broken pipe....
> > > Define pipe. If you are talking about copper, you might want to look
> > > into PEX. =A0If you have a run of PEX without any fittings it can fre=
eze
> > > without damaging it. =A0The PEX plastic memory will return the tubing=
to
> > > its original size, and it has more than enough stretchability to
> > > accommodate freezing water. =A0Of course you won't have water while t=
he
> > > pipe is frozen, but you also won't have burst pipe, flooding and
> > > repair work.
> > > R
> > Well I was planning to use PVC for the reroute, but existing pipes are
> > copper.
> > Perhaps I havent emphasized this part enough: I really dont want to
> > work in that space. Its nasty nasty nasty from all the rodents that
> > have lived there for 3 years since this was built, and I have to
> > slither in on my belly. I really want to have the pipes go elsewhere
> > so I never ever (ever!) have to go in there again.

But a Tyvek coverall with hood, tape up the arm and leg openings and
wear a mask and googles. You'll feel protected and you won't have to
be down there more than a short while.

> But having said that, if I were to run the pipes through there again
> for lack of other practical options I could minimize my time in there
> by running a long line of pex. In fact I might not have to go in any
> farther than my head and shoulders. =A0So that might work...

Google Sharkbite fittings and PEX. You can fish a PEX run like you
would fish a large gauge electric cable. With either you don't want
to beat up the outside, but it will bend to follow your fishtape or
whatever you're using to pull it through.

R

Posted by EXT on October 31, 2009, 5:31 pm


> > > > On Oct 31, 12:52 pm, "hr(bob) hofm...@att.net"
> > > > > > Joe wrote:
> > > > > > > I am trying to reroute my upstairs bathroom pipes away
> > > > > > > from the exterior wall (actually an enclosed space behind
> > > > > > > a kneewall).
> > > > > > > They currently run in an inside (room dividing) wall
> > > > > > > until they hit the rear wall, behind which is the
> > > > > > > "crawlspace" open to the rafters and such. The pipes
> > > > > > > froze once back there, and its a horrible place to work
> > > > > > > in (mice love it) so I want the pipes out of there.
> > > > > > > Anyway they turn that corner and then branch in the
> > > > > > > "crawl space" to the toilet and bathtub. Below this
> > > > > > > bathroom and crawl space there is a false ceiling, that I
> > > > > > > would like to run the pipes through instead.
> > > > > > > But the only way to do that is to drop them straight down
> > > > > > > inside that interior wall until they clear the joists
> > > > > > > below, then running them under those joists above the
> > > > > > > false ceiling to where they need to go. Going through the
> > > > > > > joists would be preferable, but I cant see how it can be
> > > > > > > done-with 16" centers I dont see how to drill through
> > > > > > > them. But the hardest part of all is just getting the
> > > > > > > pipes down to where I can see them and work with them.
> > > > > > > Directly below the wall they are in, there is an
> > > > > > > extension of that wall into the upper foot and half of
> > > > > > > the lower level. This forms one "side" that the false
> > > > > > > ceiling is hung from. Its like they knocked out a wall
> > > > > > > and left just the upper portion. Does this make any
> > > > > > > sense? Its hard to describe. But I just cant see how I
> > > > > > > can get the pipes down through that so they are below
> > > > > > > joist level, without demolishing part of that wall so I
> > > > > > > can see wtf I'm doing. Any ideas? I'd sure like to avoid
> > > > > > > calling a plumber but I may have to...
> > > > > > Hi,
> > > > > > How about insulating the space/pipe with spray foam?- Hide
> > > > > > quoted text -
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
> > > > > Sounds like a lot cheaper and easier solution. They even have
> > > > > extender poles so you can put a spray can at the end of a 4'
> > > > > pole and control it by your hand to reach into spaces that
> > > > > you can't get directly to. Paint stores carry them, but
> > > > > anything that has a standard top will fit into these extender
> > > > > poles. If you can get within 4' of where you need to spray
> > > > > the insulation, the foam in a can is great. Don't get the
> > > > > super expanding foam though, as it really has a lot of force
> > > > > when it expands and it might bend/break/crack a wall.
> > > > I spose I should elaborate on the space...its the space formed
> > > > by the narrower second floor and having a steep pitched roof.
> > > > The space is quite large. The roof is insulated, but probably
> > > > not insulated well enough. Thats another problem but not one i
> > > > can tackle at the moment. If my heat goes out, any pipes in
> > > > there are at risk of freezing because its the coldest part of
> > > > my house, even if they are extra insulated. It goes to 40 below
> > > > here and I dont think pipes in outside walls are even legal, or
> > > > at the very least not recommended...I do not want another
> > > > broken pipe....
> > > Define pipe. If you are talking about copper, you might want to
> > > look into PEX. If you have a run of PEX without any fittings it
> > > can freeze without damaging it. The PEX plastic memory will
> > > return the tubing to its original size, and it has more than
> > > enough stretchability to accommodate freezing water. Of course
> > > you won't have water while the pipe is frozen, but you also won't
> > > have burst pipe, flooding and repair work.
> > > R
> > Well I was planning to use PVC for the reroute, but existing pipes
> > are copper.
> > Perhaps I havent emphasized this part enough: I really dont want to
> > work in that space. Its nasty nasty nasty from all the rodents that
> > have lived there for 3 years since this was built, and I have to
> > slither in on my belly. I really want to have the pipes go elsewhere
> > so I never ever (ever!) have to go in there again.
> But having said that, if I were to run the pipes through there again
> for lack of other practical options I could minimize my time in there
> by running a long line of pex. In fact I might not have to go in any
> farther than my head and shoulders. So that might work...

Pex may be a problem with an area overrun with mice, they may chew into the
pipe causing leaks. It sounds like you also need to do some serious
maintenance to seal all the leaks in the exterior that allow the mice to get
in.
Plus an adult cat on patrol. Just the presence of a cat will often deter
mice from residing in a building.


Posted by Ed Pawlowski on October 31, 2009, 4:36 pm



Perhaps I havent emphasized this part enough: I really dont want to
work in that space. Its nasty nasty nasty from all the rodents that
have lived there for 3 years since this was built, and I have to
slither in on my belly. I really want to have the pipes go elsewhere
so I never ever (ever!) have to go in there again.

****************************************************

No matter where you end up running them, PEX will be easy to work with and t
get around things. Well worth considering for the flexibility.



Posted by aemeijers on October 31, 2009, 8:36 pm


Joe wrote:
> wrote:
>>> Joe wrote:
>>>> I am trying to reroute my upstairs bathroom pipes away from the
>>>> exterior wall (actually an enclosed space behind a kneewall).
>>>> They currently run in an inside (room dividing) wall until they hit
>>>> the rear wall, behind which is the "crawlspace" open to the rafters
>>>> and such. The pipes froze once back there, and its a horrible place to
>>>> work in (mice love it) so I want the pipes out of there. Anyway they
>>>> turn that corner and then branch in the "crawl space" to the toilet
>>>> and bathtub. Below this bathroom and crawl space there is a false
>>>> ceiling, that I would like to run the pipes through instead.
>>>> But the only way to do that is to drop them straight down inside that
>>>> interior wall until they clear the joists below, then running them
>>>> under those joists above the false ceiling to where they need to go.
>>>> Going through the joists would be preferable, but I cant see how it
>>>> can be done-with 16" centers I dont see how to drill through them. But
>>>> the hardest part of all is just getting the pipes down to where I can
>>>> see them and work with them. Directly below the wall they are in,
>>>> there is an extension of that wall into the upper foot and half of the
>>>> lower level. This forms one "side" that the false ceiling is hung
>>>> from. Its like they knocked out a wall and left just the upper
>>>> portion. Does this make any sense? Its hard to describe. But I just
>>>> cant see how I can get the pipes down through that so they are below
>>>> joist level, without demolishing part of that wall so I can see wtf
>>>> I'm doing. Any ideas? I'd sure like to avoid calling a plumber but I
>>>> may have to...
>>> Hi,
>>> How about insulating the space/pipe with spray foam?- Hide quoted text -
>>> - Show quoted text -
>> Sounds like a lot cheaper and easier solution. They even have
>> extender poles so you can put a spray can at the end of a 4' pole and
>> control it by your hand to reach into spaces that you can't get
>> directly to. Paint stores carry them, but anything that has a
>> standard top will fit into these extender poles. If you can get
>> within 4' of where you need to spray the insulation, the foam in a can
>> is great. Don't get the super expanding foam though, as it really has
>> a lot of force when it expands and it might bend/break/crack a wall.
>
> I spose I should elaborate on the space...its the space formed by the
> narrower second floor and having a steep pitched roof. The space is
> quite large. The roof is insulated, but probably not insulated well
> enough. Thats another problem but not one i can tackle at the moment.
> If my heat goes out, any pipes in there are at risk of freezing
> because its the coldest part of my house, even if they are extra
> insulated. It goes to 40 below here and I dont think pipes in outside
> walls are even legal, or at the very least not recommended...I do not
> want another broken pipe....

I'd box in the pipe run with plywood, and insulate it with foam board.
I'd also put a grille on the interior wall to leak a little heat into
the newly created and insulated pipe chase. Recommend assembling it all
with screws, so if a you or a future plumber ever needs to get in there,
it is less painful. Yes, this will mean one time fighting with the tight
access, but I bet it would be less work than rerouting the pipes. Usual
caveats about not using exposed foam board within the heated envelope
apply, unless you can find some of the fire-rated stuff.

--
aem sends...

Posted by Tony on October 31, 2009, 9:46 pm


Tony Hwang wrote:
> Joe wrote:
>> I am trying to reroute my upstairs bathroom pipes away from the
>> exterior wall (actually an enclosed space behind a kneewall).
>> They currently run in an inside (room dividing) wall until they hit
>> the rear wall, behind which is the "crawlspace" open to the rafters
>> and such. The pipes froze once back there, and its a horrible place to
>> work in (mice love it) so I want the pipes out of there. Anyway they
>> turn that corner and then branch in the "crawl space" to the toilet
>> and bathtub. Below this bathroom and crawl space there is a false
>> ceiling, that I would like to run the pipes through instead.
>> But the only way to do that is to drop them straight down inside that
>> interior wall until they clear the joists below, then running them
>> under those joists above the false ceiling to where they need to go.
>> Going through the joists would be preferable, but I cant see how it
>> can be done-with 16" centers I dont see how to drill through them. But
>> the hardest part of all is just getting the pipes down to where I can
>> see them and work with them. Directly below the wall they are in,
>> there is an extension of that wall into the upper foot and half of the
>> lower level. This forms one "side" that the false ceiling is hung
>> from. Its like they knocked out a wall and left just the upper
>> portion. Does this make any sense? Its hard to describe. But I just
>> cant see how I can get the pipes down through that so they are below
>> joist level, without demolishing part of that wall so I can see wtf
>> I'm doing. Any ideas? I'd sure like to avoid calling a plumber but I
>> may have to...
> Hi,
> How about insulating the space/pipe with spray foam?

If so only insulate between the exterior wall and the pipes. Never
insulate between the inside wall and the pipe.

Page 3 of 4       < 1 2 3 > last >>
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