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Posted by willshak on April 30, 2008, 4:06 pm
on 4/30/2008 3:18 PM HeyBub said the following:
> zzyzzx wrote:
>
>> If power outages are ver infrequent and short, why would you want to
>> waste money on a backup generator?
>>
>> And I'd use a heavier gauge extension cord if I were going to try to
>> power a refrigerator and a microwave on the same circuit, espically if
>> it's going to me a longer cord.
>>
>
> Have you ever gone for an hour without internet access?
>
> It hurts.
>
>
>
Not to mention lights, well water, heat, AC, microwave, range, oven,
cordless phones, and all power tools. I live in a rural area. When a
wire goes down, it may takes hours to send out a crew and fix it. That's
why I have a generator.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
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Posted by ransley on April 30, 2008, 4:40 pm
On Apr 30, 11:28=A0am, dowhil...@gmail.com wrote:
> I am think about buying a portable electric generator for emergency
> use during power outages. =A0(Power outages are few and short in my
> area)
> I am thinking a 3000 watt rated (3500 max) unit that ought to be able
> to power my fridge, a few lights, 3 computers, and a microwave (only
> for a few minutes to heat up food). =A0At night while the computers and
> the lights are off, and if needed, I would turn on a fan and the sump
> pump.
>
> I want one with circuit breaker, and with at least 20 amp receptacles
> (25 amp is preferred).
>
> The unit will in the back yard of my house underneath my deck.
>
> Question 1: is it better to get one with electronic ignition
> plus recoil pull start?
>
> Question 2: is using 14 gauge extension cords good enough?
> cord 1 (25 feet) from generator to fist floor kitchen to power
> the fridge, a light, and the micrwave (again for only a few minutes)
> cord 2 (100 feet) from generator to the second floor to power
> 3 computers, a TV and DVD player, a light or two...
>
> Thanks for any info,
> Ted
I would keep it inside somewhere, outside under a porch if its sealed
only, 14 ga is way to small 8-10 is about it. best is a transfer panel
and exterior box, Lowes sometimes has a deal with free pre wired
generac transfer panel on a 5500w Generac. Surge load of a pump and
frige can be near 1000w each, to do it without a transfer switch is
completely wrong when using multiple apliances. Also the cheaper the
unit the less stabil it out will be, maybe going from 90-135v on
loading. Honda inverter series is the best, there is alot to learn
before you buy.
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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on April 30, 2008, 4:55 pm
On Apr 30, 12:28=EF=BF=BDpm, dowhil...@gmail.com wrote:
> I am think about buying a portable electric generator for emergency
> use during power outages. =EF=BF=BD(Power outages are few and short in my
> area)
> I am thinking a 3000 watt rated (3500 max) unit that ought to be able
> to power my fridge, a few lights, 3 computers, and a microwave (only
> for a few minutes to heat up food). =EF=BF=BDAt night while the computers =
and
> the lights are off, and if needed, I would turn on a fan and the sump
> pump.
>
> I want one with circuit breaker, and with at least 20 amp receptacles
> (25 amp is preferred).
>
> The unit will in the back yard of my house underneath my deck.
>
> Question 1: is it better to get one with electronic ignition
> plus recoil pull start?
>
> Question 2: is using 14 gauge extension cords good enough?
> cord 1 (25 feet) from generator to fist floor kitchen to power
> the fridge, a light, and the micrwave (again for only a few minutes)
> cord 2 (100 feet) from generator to the second floor to power
> 3 computers, a TV and DVD player, a light or two...
>
> Thanks for any info,
> Ted
first you need to have enough fuel to run the generator in a
emergency,
gas stations use electric to pump gas, unless they have power you are
out of business.
smaller generators equal lower fuel used. a large generator gulps lots
of fuel even running without a load.
generators are noisey,,,,,,,, espically cheaper ones.
you can elminate complaints by buying a little larger and running
extension cords to close by neighbors, to say power a light, and
fridge occasionally. neighbors wouldnt complain if they are benefiting
too:)
by rotating what your powering you can supply a few fridges etc in
your area.
another option is a inverter, gets power right from cars battery which
can be left idiling... 100 bucks gets you about a 1000 watts.........
nice for night time.
me and wife got home from trip right after major storm.
we wanted to watch tv, so i connected light and tv to inverter, and
had things up and running in 10 minutes.
we watched big brother on schedule.......
you need to decide exactly what you want. 4 computers are a lot, might
be better to have one in a emergency.....
if you live where summers are real hot a small window AC unit is a
good investment, everyone can pile in one room if the outage is long.
in areas that freeze, powering a furnace is a good idea
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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on April 30, 2008, 4:56 pm
On Apr 30, 12:28=EF=BF=BDpm, dowhil...@gmail.com wrote:
> I am think about buying a portable electric generator for emergency
> use during power outages. =EF=BF=BD(Power outages are few and short in my
> area)
> I am thinking a 3000 watt rated (3500 max) unit that ought to be able
> to power my fridge, a few lights, 3 computers, and a microwave (only
> for a few minutes to heat up food). =EF=BF=BDAt night while the computers =
and
> the lights are off, and if needed, I would turn on a fan and the sump
> pump.
>
> I want one with circuit breaker, and with at least 20 amp receptacles
> (25 amp is preferred).
>
> The unit will in the back yard of my house underneath my deck.
>
> Question 1: is it better to get one with electronic ignition
> plus recoil pull start?
>
> Question 2: is using 14 gauge extension cords good enough?
> cord 1 (25 feet) from generator to fist floor kitchen to power
> the fridge, a light, and the micrwave (again for only a few minutes)
> cord 2 (100 feet) from generator to the second floor to power
> 3 computers, a TV and DVD player, a light or two...
>
> Thanks for any info,
> Ted
use no smaller than 12 gauge cords
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Posted by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=22Blattus_Slaf on April 30, 2008, 5:22 pm
dowhileme@gmail.com wrote:
> I am think about buying a portable electric generator for emergency
> use during power outages. (Power outages are few and short in my
> area)
> I am thinking a 3000 watt rated (3500 max) unit that ought to be able
> to power my fridge, a few lights, 3 computers, and a microwave (only
> for a few minutes to heat up food). At night while the computers and
> the lights are off, and if needed, I would turn on a fan and the sump
> pump.
>
> I want one with circuit breaker, and with at least 20 amp receptacles
> (25 amp is preferred).
>
> The unit will in the back yard of my house underneath my deck.
>
> Question 1: is it better to get one with electronic ignition
> plus recoil pull start?
>
> Question 2: is using 14 gauge extension cords good enough?
> cord 1 (25 feet) from generator to fist floor kitchen to power
> the fridge, a light, and the micrwave (again for only a few minutes)
> cord 2 (100 feet) from generator to the second floor to power
> 3 computers, a TV and DVD player, a light or two...
>
> Thanks for any info,
> Ted
Why not get a 5 or 6 kw and tie it into your service panel and be done
with it. Switch over to generator when the power is out and you can use
anything in the house without extension cords going all over the place.
Just don't run the heavy stuff all at once like stove, oven, washer and
dryer-and electric water heater.
--
Blattus Slafaly ? 3 :) 7/8
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