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Posted by Speedy Jim on July 1, 2005, 10:50 pm
K Ruck wrote:
> My goal was to replace the cap (which appears to be the only part of it that
> isn't lead, it looks almost chrome) with a flush (or inset) cover to be
> level with the floor, while still looking nice. I'm not good enough to cut
> the hex off cleanly and smoothly (assuming it isn't hollow) without having
> to spend a whole lot of time with my dremel and other tools trying to make
> it smooth, and even then, I'd lose any ability to get traction in case I
> ever did need to remove the cover in the future.
>
> I'd consider retrofitting a P-trap, but the iron pipe that the lead goes
> into is not easily accessible, and is pointing about 110 degrees away from
> the shower drain, so I'd end up having to do some serious re-routing, then
> figure out how to get a firm and permanent connection to the iron pipe. Oh,
> and the fact that the iron pipe is probably high enough that there isn't
> enough rise/run even if I did use a p-trap. :-(
>
> My other option is to hire a professional to come rip out the tub and do
> major plumbing, which doesn't sound like it would be within my budget... the
> tub is tiled in, so a least the tile and probably part of one wall would
> have to come out.
>
> Thanks,
> Keith
There is a "universal" replacement cover for drum traps.
They are chrome and IIRC have a flush surface with only
a slotted screw recessed in it.
Ask around at a hardware store or plumbing supply house.
I doubt that BigBox would have them, but maybe...
Get a new cover before attacking the old one.
Jim
>
>
>>K Ruck wrote:
>>
>>>I've removed about half my (small) bathroom floor, which had decades of
>>>water damage and needed to be replaced before I could put in a tile
>
> floor.
>
>>>The shower doesn't go to a P-trap; it goes to an old cannister trap that
>
> is
>
>>>under the floorboards (or was, until I removed them). The cap is a 5"
>
> metal
>
>>>disk with a 1.25" hex-nut shaped protrusion in the center. The trap
>
> itself
>
>>>appears to be lead, and the incoming and outgoing pipes in it are lead
>
> as
>
>>>well. They go under the tub (which isn't part of my remodeling plans) so
>
> I
>
>>>want to just remove the cap and replace it with a flush cap so I can
>
> tile
>
>>>around it, and leave it as-is.
>>>
>>>The problem is when I torque it with my plumbing wrench (with enough
>
> force
>
>>>to leave teeth marks on the hex nut) the only movement I get is the
>
> input
>
>>>and output lead pipes twisting slightly. Not a good idea. So my next
>
> thought
>
>>>was to heat the top of the trap a little (like running a jar under hot
>
> water
>
>>>to loosen the lid), but I'm afraid I'll just melt the lead and be
>
> completely
>
>>>in trouble.
>>>
>>>Does anyone have experience with these old traps, especially stuck ones,
>>>that could give me any suggestions on how to safely remove the cap?
>>>
>>>Many. many thanks
>>>Keith
>>>
>>>
>>
>>It is called a "drum trap". They are now specifically prohibted.
>>Usually made of cast iron, but 100 yrs ago could have been
>>fabricated as lead with lead waste piping.
>>
>>The cap is often a thin brass fitting. A very sharp cold chisel
>>will cut thru it (or use a drill to swiss-cheese the thing).
>>Then it can be collapsed and removed.
>>
>>I don't quite understand why the cover must be removed.
>>If it is the hex "nut" that is in the way, saw it off.
>>(No guarantee that the nut isn't hollow...)
>>
>>Jim
>
>
>
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